mr240

iTrader: (61)

Nitro cleaner or brake cleaner from the auto parts store. Same stuff.

3DRCRACER

iTrader: (1)

Or just drive it till they get hot enough to wear it off. Shouldn't take long.

dodgeguy

iTrader: (208)

Can anyone tell me what the shock lengths are from eyelet to shock cap mounting for the front and rear?

DmonEY

iTrader: (8)

I think it's 103-104mm front and
124mm rear with stock hubs

RCNitro13

iTrader: (12)

I have 2 questions regarding the tank and clutch.

Do you need to put the shim behind the cone before the flywheel? There seems to be a big gap between the flywheel and motor case, even without the shim there is a big gap. Coming from an 8ight, I didnt have to put a shim and the flywheel was very close to the case without it rubbing, I guess because the Losi flywheel has a lip behind it and the Mugen is flat.
I have a Nova 4BTTS.

Regarding the fuel tank, I installed the updated tank and its sitting pretty high off the chassis and there is a lot of side to side movement left/right. When I pull on the ring to open the lid, the entire tank moves towards the centre. Is this normal? I haven't screwed the screws in all the way.
From the pic, you can see there is a 5mm gap on the motor or clunk side of the tank.

CanyonCarverR1

iTrader: (13)

With the 4BTTS, I have 1 shim in. On the tank, do you have the screw in attaching the splash guard to the air filter? That should reduce any side movement of the tank.

DLF

Gentlemen, I'm still battling a loose car. This past weekend, I saw a glimmer of hope as the track was wet for one round. While the car was not 100% planted, it was just loose enough that it was very fast. After that, back to feeling like I'm on ice.

I've done various things and it's getting there. Today I realized, why don't I just add wait in front of the rear suspension on the chassis? Have you guys done this by chance? Especially in low traction conditions?

merdith6

iTrader: (3)

I've never needed a shim behind the flywheel. I guess it depends on the engine, but my novas never needed one.

the tank. I recommend putting a washer on the screw before you screw it in so it will hold more of the rubber gromment. Another thing is to use longer screws for the mounts from under the chassis It helps wiggle proof to some extent and keeps from stripping out the mounts too.

Seattlelife22

iTrader: (25)

What have done different than the stock setup? Then we can go from there.

RCNitro13

iTrader: (12)

Ah, not yet. Wasn't up to that part of the build.

DLF

As of now, I moved the upper link to the outside hole in the rear. Moved the ackerman (sp?) forward. Went to full droop in the front to increase weight transfer. Turned the pistons taper down. Made minor right height changes in the rear to induce more pack and in the front to increase weight transfer to the rear while on-throttle.

I think that's it. The biggest problem is that I've only had two short practice sessions since I've built the car. Rain has really been killing us down here. The next thing I intend to do is put X6 hubs on the rear to use the lower hinge pin hole.

Car lacks rear side-bite on-power/corner exit. I've made one change at a time and each of those listed seems to have made an improvement. I was just thinking that, since this car was designed to have so much of it's weight pushed forward, why not bring some back a bit.

Bappen

I think this is your main issue here... Two short sessions aren't enough.

Chad Bradley wrote this somewhere in the thread:

"The more you run the car the more traction it will get (even without changing the setup). Cars that use CVA or CVD axles, are generally loose when the axles and outdrives are brand new. CVA or CVD joints are one of the most free axle types when they are brand new, as they wear in they create thier own bind which becomes traction because on throttle they will center up the chassis sooner out of a corner. If you were to put WD-40 or grease/oil on the axle pin and outdrive, trust me it will be looser than if it were dry. I do use grease in the cup of the axle, but I try not to ever put new axles or outdrives in, in the middle of a large event (I made that mistake before the mains at the roar nats in OKC, the car was very loose. One of the first races with the MBX5)"

Johnieblaze

iTrader: (27)

When you get a chance try the following, all of which increases rear traction. You should try each setting one at a time.

1. THE RIGHT TIRE !
2. Softer swaybar
3. More rear toe in
4. Longer upper camber-links
5. Shorter wheelbase
6. Softer spring and/or lighter shock oil
7. More rear droop ( has a better effect on overall rear traction than increasing front droop)
8. Lighter rear diff oil....

What is your engine and clutch setup ?

Trying one or more of these settings in combination should solve, or at the very least alleviate the loose rear end. Also, keep in mind what Chad said a few pages back that the car will be loose when it's new and needs a small break in period.

DLF

What I mean to say, is that the tuning as always been during races. Car has about twenty or so tanks on it.

DLF

Thanks Johnie. Tires aren't the issue for me. Got that figured out. For the heck of it, I may just take the rear sway bar off and see what happens. I'm actually starting to think I just demand a more planted car than everyone else does. I'm gonna keep trying though. For reference, the x6 was pretty good right out of the box for me.