1LikesMugen MBX7
03-11-2013, 08:54 PM
#2896
03-11-2013, 09:03 PM
#2897
What Chad said is very true. I built my car
This past Friday and raced a big race Saturday
And my car was very lose but in the main the
Longer I drove it the more the traction came in
I am running box setup. I did have a slight push
in long sweeping turns that your on power but
Ever where else it turned better than any car I
Have ever owned. What adjustment should I make
To get that push out? I am box stock except 5-10-3
Diffs, and front hole on Ackerman, long chassis
Brace. Thanks
This past Friday and raced a big race Saturday
And my car was very lose but in the main the
Longer I drove it the more the traction came in
I am running box setup. I did have a slight push
in long sweeping turns that your on power but
Ever where else it turned better than any car I
Have ever owned. What adjustment should I make
To get that push out? I am box stock except 5-10-3
Diffs, and front hole on Ackerman, long chassis
Brace. Thanks
03-11-2013, 09:04 PM
#2898
Thanks Johnie. Tires aren't the issue for me. Got that figured out. For the heck of it, I may just take the rear sway bar off and see what happens. I'm actually starting to think I just demand a more planted car than everyone else does. I'm gonna keep trying though. For reference, the x6 was pretty good right out of the box for me.
3 degrees toe, holes down
3 degrees anti holes in the middle
Outside hole camber link
8 hole piston straight. Adjust weight of oil by temp outside. Way softer than stock. I run 40 f and 35 rear
27 front and 28 rear
Run tires suited for the track.
I did lower the sway bar in the rear but how low you go is determined on traction.
I needed more off power so i pushed the upper arms Forward.
Droop front 103 and rear 128
rear camber is 3 degrees
I have not used the 6 rear hubs yet still running stock.
If that doesnt work...
If your shocks are in the middle hole on the shock tower bump the rear one hole down or all the way down. Pretty big change though.
I still run 7-7-3 in the diffs
If your really throttle happy and stab the throttle all the time it is really hard to dial the rear in...smooth
Hope this helps...Other people has tried it and liked it. Reggie pointed in the right direction in earlier post.
Last edited by Seattlelife22; 03-11-2013 at 09:22 PM.
03-11-2013, 10:22 PM
#2899
As of now, I moved the upper link to the outside hole in the rear. Moved the ackerman (sp?) forward. Went to full droop in the front to increase weight transfer. Turned the pistons taper down. Made minor right height changes in the rear to induce more pack and in the front to increase weight transfer to the rear while on-throttle.
I think that's it. The biggest problem is that I've only had two short practice sessions since I've built the car. Rain has really been killing us down here. The next thing I intend to do is put X6 hubs on the rear to use the lower hinge pin hole.
Car lacks rear side-bite on-power/corner exit. I've made one change at a time and each of those listed seems to have made an improvement. I was just thinking that, since this car was designed to have so much of it's weight pushed forward, why not bring some back a bit.
I think that's it. The biggest problem is that I've only had two short practice sessions since I've built the car. Rain has really been killing us down here. The next thing I intend to do is put X6 hubs on the rear to use the lower hinge pin hole.
Car lacks rear side-bite on-power/corner exit. I've made one change at a time and each of those listed seems to have made an improvement. I was just thinking that, since this car was designed to have so much of it's weight pushed forward, why not bring some back a bit.
The new aluminum x7 hubs help the rear end quite a bit. I use the lower hole with camber link in middle. Using the x6 rear hub carriers will give similar if not identical geometry but the alum is heavier which is a good thing IMO. I also use +1 hex hubs in rear, 2.8 sway bar, and 8 hole pistons taper down. This has proven to work best for me.
03-11-2013, 10:26 PM
#2900
Gentlemen, I'm still battling a loose car. This past weekend, I saw a glimmer of hope as the track was wet for one round. While the car was not 100% planted, it was just loose enough that it was very fast. After that, back to feeling like I'm on ice.
I've done various things and it's getting there. Today I realized, why don't I just add wait in front of the rear suspension on the chassis? Have you guys done this by chance? Especially in low traction conditions?
I've done various things and it's getting there. Today I realized, why don't I just add wait in front of the rear suspension on the chassis? Have you guys done this by chance? Especially in low traction conditions?
Changes i have done, and have not made a single little bit of difference are:
2.6 rear sway bar.
2.6 front sway bar
long rear camber links.
5,5,3 diff oils.
Softest rear black springs with 400 oil
Medium front black springs with 450 oil
MBX6 white pistons
Rear shocks inside hole on arm, one hole in on tower
High rear roll centre
3 deg rear tow in
Minimum rear antisquat
Short wheelbase
130 rear droop
x6 rear hubs lower hole
rest of setup is stock.
getting back on the power out of tight corners makes the rear end break loose and step out sideways really badly. Even on a damp track it is still possible to get the rear end out of shape.
Its really odd. I cant figure it out why its doing it. Especially with that setup it should push really badly. But its exactly the opposite.
03-11-2013, 10:40 PM
#2901
Yeah i have the exact same problem as yourself. Only my car has had a good 6 litres of fuel through it now and is still loose in the back coming out of the slower corners like hairpin turns on power exit.
Changes i have done, and have not made a single little bit of difference are:
2.6 rear sway bar.
2.6 front sway bar
long rear camber links.
5,5,3 diff oils.
Softest rear black springs with 400 oil
Medium front black springs with 450 oil
MBX6 white pistons
Rear shocks inside hole on arm, one hole in on tower
High rear roll centre
3 deg rear tow in
Minimum rear antisquat
Short wheelbase
130 rear droop
x6 rear hubs lower hole
rest of setup is stock.
getting back on the power out of tight corners makes the rear end break loose and step out sideways really badly. Even on a damp track it is still possible to get the rear end out of shape.
Its really odd. I cant figure it out why its doing it. Especially with that setup it should push really badly. But its exactly the opposite.
Changes i have done, and have not made a single little bit of difference are:
2.6 rear sway bar.
2.6 front sway bar
long rear camber links.
5,5,3 diff oils.
Softest rear black springs with 400 oil
Medium front black springs with 450 oil
MBX6 white pistons
Rear shocks inside hole on arm, one hole in on tower
High rear roll centre
3 deg rear tow in
Minimum rear antisquat
Short wheelbase
130 rear droop
x6 rear hubs lower hole
rest of setup is stock.
getting back on the power out of tight corners makes the rear end break loose and step out sideways really badly. Even on a damp track it is still possible to get the rear end out of shape.
Its really odd. I cant figure it out why its doing it. Especially with that setup it should push really badly. But its exactly the opposite.
03-11-2013, 11:01 PM
#2902
Novarossi Plus 4BTT with BUKU clutch
03-12-2013, 04:15 AM
#2903
Tech Master
Guys with loose ends... LOL
Try as little antisquat as possible.
Long rear camberlink in the upper hole.
Aslo, try 0 degrees of front toe, ie, front wheels straight ahead.
There is one last thing to try, and that is the underdrive for rear end 42/12. This will help!! Never tested it, but you will have less rear end drive and i just has to help...
Try as little antisquat as possible.
Long rear camberlink in the upper hole.
Aslo, try 0 degrees of front toe, ie, front wheels straight ahead.
There is one last thing to try, and that is the underdrive for rear end 42/12. This will help!! Never tested it, but you will have less rear end drive and i just has to help...
03-12-2013, 04:34 AM
#2904
Guys with loose ends... LOL
Try as little antisquat as possible.
Long rear camberlink in the upper hole.
Aslo, try 0 degrees of front toe, ie, front wheels straight ahead.
There is one last thing to try, and that is the underdrive for rear end 42/12. This will help!! Never tested it, but you will have less rear end drive and i just has to help...
Try as little antisquat as possible.
Long rear camberlink in the upper hole.
Aslo, try 0 degrees of front toe, ie, front wheels straight ahead.
There is one last thing to try, and that is the underdrive for rear end 42/12. This will help!! Never tested it, but you will have less rear end drive and i just has to help...
Done
and Done
Only thing i haven't tried is the under drive.
03-12-2013, 04:42 AM
#2905
I like a really locked in rear end this is what I did: aluminum hubs, in lowest position. Camber link in middle on hub and lowest on tower. -3 deg of camber.
Those changes locked in the rear end for me, my next outing I will be trying to add a little bit of on power steering back in.
Those changes locked in the rear end for me, my next outing I will be trying to add a little bit of on power steering back in.
03-12-2013, 05:49 AM
#2906
Try the x6 rear hubs.
The new aluminum x7 hubs help the rear end quite a bit. I use the lower hole with camber link in middle. Using the x6 rear hub carriers will give similar if not identical geometry but the alum is heavier which is a good thing IMO. I also use +1 hex hubs in rear, 2.8 sway bar, and 8 hole pistons taper down. This has proven to work best for me.
The new aluminum x7 hubs help the rear end quite a bit. I use the lower hole with camber link in middle. Using the x6 rear hub carriers will give similar if not identical geometry but the alum is heavier which is a good thing IMO. I also use +1 hex hubs in rear, 2.8 sway bar, and 8 hole pistons taper down. This has proven to work best for me.
03-12-2013, 06:55 AM
#2907
You said you are running high roll center. Just to be clear, you mean the pills in the hinge pin holders are at the bottom? Also if I'm not mistaken using the rear ackermann hole calms the steering some. You can always add some weight to the rear hubs.
03-12-2013, 07:22 AM
#2908
Tech Regular
I had the same issue with the car being loose especially on dry / dustry track.
Try 5-5-2 for the diffs on dusty track, that helped me quite a lot. I have the long rear link in the upper hole on the tower, made quite a difference coming out of the corners. I did as well change the rear swaybar to 2.7 (not as big an impact). Zero Antisquat for me, medium wheelbase. This got the rear under control, but had negative impact on the on-power-steering. I changed then to the 8-hole piston with tapered side up, 700 front, 650 rear (I am in Rio de Janeiro, temperature about 35C/95F), and that made quite a difference. Went back to the middle hole on the rear link (on tower). Ride-Height is 24 front, 28 rear and the car is really good now. 23 / 27 works good as well, I figured it is best to maintain the difference of 4 cm in the rideheight. On good traction tracks I use either 7-7-3 or 5-7-3 (I prefer 5-7-3). Especially on loose tracks tires do have a huge impact on the cars behaviour (and not only on your lap times). Try out a lot of different tires.
Try 5-5-2 for the diffs on dusty track, that helped me quite a lot. I have the long rear link in the upper hole on the tower, made quite a difference coming out of the corners. I did as well change the rear swaybar to 2.7 (not as big an impact). Zero Antisquat for me, medium wheelbase. This got the rear under control, but had negative impact on the on-power-steering. I changed then to the 8-hole piston with tapered side up, 700 front, 650 rear (I am in Rio de Janeiro, temperature about 35C/95F), and that made quite a difference. Went back to the middle hole on the rear link (on tower). Ride-Height is 24 front, 28 rear and the car is really good now. 23 / 27 works good as well, I figured it is best to maintain the difference of 4 cm in the rideheight. On good traction tracks I use either 7-7-3 or 5-7-3 (I prefer 5-7-3). Especially on loose tracks tires do have a huge impact on the cars behaviour (and not only on your lap times). Try out a lot of different tires.
03-12-2013, 07:57 AM
#2909
When reading your post, it seems you pretty much tried almost everything. What baffles me is that your saying none of the changes has made much difference. Hard for me to believe the Moog isn't responding.... You also stated that you made all of the changes during a race. Like I eluded to before, all of these changes on a new car on race day is a bit much. Way too many dynamics going on to dial in a new ride. With track conditions, weather and many other variables changing I'm sure you're having more issues than necessary. What I'd suggest first is to get to a track and have a test and tune session and get the car working to your liking before racing.
Okay, what are your springs settings on the buku ?
Okay, what are your springs settings on the buku ?