Aaron Waldron

Hehe...let's see if I can do this from memory. If I miss anything, let me know.

Front end:
50 wt. Losi oil, red springs, stock pistons
5,000 diff oil
middle upper hole on tower, inner hole on arm
upper arm middle hole, ackerman middle hole
Ride height just above arms level
Slight toe-out at ride height, -2 camber
B-block for caster

Center
7,000 diff oil
Airtronics 94359 servos for throttle and steering
Trinity 1400 receiver pack
Jammin JP-1 and Jammin' header
Novak XXTra receiver

Rear
37.5 Losi oil, red springs, stock pistons
2,000 diff oil
middle upper hole on tower, inner hole on arm
Ride height just above level
1 degree anti-squat, 3.5 degree toe-in block

Jammin"145

memory?Are you not running this buggy anymore?Moved on to the Losi?Thanks for the info.I'll be trying it.going to pick it up today and start the assembly.

Aaron Waldron

Memory because I was too lazy to dig through my stuff to find a setup sheet for the buggy...haha. I will continue running the Jammin' buggy until I get my 8IGHT.

trusty

iTrader: (2)

Hi Aaron,You know how the guy's at losi put together an upgrade kit for the Lst...Can you please ask them about putting race packs together for their kits. eg.. Lst2,foc,full spring set,either 23 or 17mm hexs,racing rubber,swaybars and maybe that funky rear wing. just an example.
They could probably do the same with the other kits as well!
Just curious to think what other losi fans think of the idea as well.

trusty

BanzaiMom

Aaron, thought I'd surprise you and stop in and say "Hi" !

Haven't seen you since the end of last year, I think at the Shoot-Out!!

Maybe you'll be running some of the JBRL series races and we'll get a chance
to talk and catch up on things!!

Say "Hi" to your dad from me and Scott!

Judi

mztaim

Okies, I'm interested in getting a brushless system, but none of the guys around here run one, so I don't have much to go on. My gear and track: Running a FT B4. I run mostly on a mediumish size track, super hard packed clay-so hard packed we all run slicks. The infield is technical with two jumps and a rhythm section. The straightaway is about 85 ft. long. I'm just wondering what sort of brushless motor I should be getting??? I'm definitely going with the LRP Sphere ESC, as I've heard the Novaks are out of control glitching. But what sort of brushless motor would give a good blend of punch for the technical section and decent straightaway acceleration?

Thanks!

gordonmoney

First of all, I think Novak makes a fine brushless esc. Many people at my track use them and nobody has had any glitching problems. Like all equipment, they occasionally have an issue, but Novak's customer service is awesome. As far as motor selection goes, in a 2wd buggy you could use anything from a 5800(8.5) to a 6.5 motor. These are Novak models or use Reedy equivalents. I would start with the 5800. I think you will find it has a ton of torque and is plenty fast. You will probably just go slower with a faster motor. If you agree that slower is faster, you might even try one of the 4300 models. They are fast, more controlable and cheaper. Good luck and enjoy! Once you try brushless, you won't go back.

Aaron Waldron

Man, I thought ya'll forgot about this thread! LOL

trusty - My guess is that a huge majority of the LST's sold will not see a track anywhere. It may not be worth the cost of paying someone to put a racing conversion kit together for them to sell it at a decent price.

Banzaimom - Hey! I don't think I'll be at any JBRL races this year because we have so many gas races this year, but I'll definitely be at the Shootout! We have lots to catch up on...haha. Say hi to Scott for my dad and I!

I agree with gordonmoney, the Novak stuff works very well. For 2wd and especially on a tighter track, you probably wouldn't need anything faster than the 5800.

iluminati

Hi Aaron,

I recently acquired a new XXX-T/MF2 and outfitted it with the Novak 4.5 Velociti Brushless system including the GTB ESC. A friend of mine purchased the same setup for a new Associated T4. I have a few questions in regard to these setups. First of all, I noticed his car is much quieter then mine, I have heard that this is because the kevlar spur gear in the MF2 creates alot more noise. Is there any truth to this, or should I be concerned that there is a problem?

The first time I ran the car all out for an extended period of time I managed to completely mash the Diff gear. Today I rebuilt the Diff and completely coated it with Associated Stealth lube. I tightened it, ran the car a bit at low-medium speed indoors then tightened it again. Tomorrow I plan to do the acceleration slipper test (as described in the manual) and see how it runs all out. I notice that the car tends to screech a bit when I pump the throttle, it seems to me that it does it more then my friends T4 with the same setup. This concerns me. I have read numerous posts on how to set your diff and slipper but I am still not satisfied that it is set properly, mostly due to the extra noise. Is there a distinct difference in sound between the diff slipping versus the slipper slipping? Is there any reason to suspect that the car cannot handle the power provided by the engine, or is it just that I need to insure that the diff is always as tight as it can be?

I plan to test the car on asphalt initially, will the 2 second slip test that Losi recommends in the manual be sufficient to configure the slipper? or is there something better that you can recommend?

My last car was a tamiya hornet I had as a kid back in the 1980s, I still cant believe how fast and rugged this vehicle is. I can't wait to be able to drive it out all out with the confidence that I wont damage the Diff. I appreciate any and all assistance since I want to get this car running ASAP. Thanks.

party_wagon

iTrader: (29)

When set up properly the car will literaly do back flips if it has enough traction while acelerating. To break in the diff hold one wheel and do about 1/4th throtle for 15 seconds then hold the other wheel and repeat. Do this about 4 times on each wheel. Then retighten the diff. It should be smooth, however it should provide some resistance to rotating. Before you run the car each time put a piece of card board between the spur and pinion gear then try to spin the tires. If the slipper slips and the diff doesn't then your safe. If it's set up properly you should be able to spin the wheels w/ the pinion/spur locked and lift the front end off the ground by just spinning the rear wheels in your hand. I am not sure if the thrust bearings w/ the car have the plastic washer around them w/ the mf2. If they do you should replace them w/ the thrust bearing that is just balls and no plastic washer thing. With that much power the plastic washer thing will just not cut it. When the diff is properly tightened you should not be able to turn the outdrive by bear hands, but you should be able to turn the tires by hand fairly easily.

Aaron Waldron

Clean everything with motor spray right out of the package and try using Associated black grease on the thrust assembly. Put it together according to the instructions and work the diff back and forth with your hands as you tighten it...tighten a little bit, work it back and forth, and repeat. The fact you said you coated the diff with lube concerns me..haha. The thrust bearing and the diff balls are the only parts that need lube. The thrust bearing should be pretty much packed with grease but the diff balls only need enough lube to cover them, don't try to fill the diff up.

To test the diff, put an allen wrench through each outdrive to hold them still and try to turn the diff gear. If you can turn it, you need to tighten the diff more.

Once it's in the car, hold the car up by the rear end of it and apply 1/4 throttle to get the wheels turning. Use the pit table or ground to stop one tire for fifteen seconds, then the other, back and forth, about five times each. This will break in all the parts and allow everything to seat. When everything breaks in, the diff usually loosens up, and that's why people melt new diffs.

Lock your slipper down, hold the right rear tire and spur gear with your right hand, and try to turn the left rear tire. If you can turn it, then you need to tighten the diff. Do this until you can't turn the left rear tire. Back your slipper off the recommended adjustment in the manual (four full turns), and do the test again. You should find that you'll be able to turn the left rear tire with some effort, and that the slipper shaft, nut, and spring all turn. If you can't turn the left rear tire, back the slipper off until you can.

Keep checking your diff and slipper adjustment every run or so and it will last for a long time!

The Kevlar gears can be a little more noisy than the plastic spur gears Losi sells. It's really nothing to worry about; there's no reason to be picky about how much noise your car makes. If it's a crunchy or grinding noise, then be worried! If your slipper slips, it will probably sound like a whirring noise, but if your diff slips, it will "bark", and that will cause it to fail prematurely.

iluminati

Thanks for the informative replies! I will give it a shot sometime today.

BSchorr

iTrader: (101)

Noisey kevlar spur gears are bad!!! hahah

binaryterror

Aaron Waldron:

What is the meaning of life?

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Aaron-- Can you use your "contacts" and see if you can find out if they are shipping XXX-CR kits this week? There are rumors they could hit shevles between today and Wed.

Thanks.