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Old 06-03-2010, 05:43 AM
  #736  
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Hi

I'm from France and i'm waiting for my 811 I saw on setup sheets a mix of Aluminium and Carbon shoes for the clutch . Aluminium shoes are optional parts but i can't find the reference for them .

Also it seems to be a strong car but do you have an opinion regarding spare parts to buy to be relax during a race day ?

Thanks for you help
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Old 06-03-2010, 06:02 AM
  #737  
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we have all the parts at www.absolutehobbyz.com some of them are out of stock but we have a good selection in stock. I am running all carbons with the medium springs right now.. Have not tried the aluminum shoes yet..
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Old 06-03-2010, 07:29 AM
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I would go for
bearings and a wingmount
front shockrods
front tower,front inner pins
complete fr/rr diff set

Last edited by speedy2; 06-04-2010 at 01:41 AM.
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Old 06-03-2010, 10:34 AM
  #739  
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Originally Posted by Chad Phillips
we have all the parts at www.absolutehobbyz.com some of them are out of stock but we have a good selection in stock. I am running all carbons with the medium springs right now.. Have not tried the aluminum shoes yet..
They have really fast delivery times and excellent customer service!!
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Old 06-03-2010, 03:36 PM
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well i just got home w/my new 811 thanks to chad p. from absolute...tommy..

any other tips on build please post em up guys...thanx..chaSSIS is sweet dont wanna run it, and parts do look x-rayish?
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Old 06-03-2010, 03:43 PM
  #741  
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we just got our parts order in today for stock and i cant believe how thick the rear shock towers are! they must be a good 6MM ( just a guess ) No wonder they are almost the price of a new chassis If anyone ever crashes bad enough to break a rear tower, please pot up pics...that I have to see!!
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Old 06-03-2010, 03:51 PM
  #742  
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Originally Posted by Jaz240
we just got our parts order in today for stock and i cant believe how thick the rear shock towers are! they must be a good 6MM ( just a guess ) No wonder they are almost the price of a new chassis If anyone ever crashes bad enough to break a rear tower, please pot up pics...that I have to see!!
I believe 6mm is correct..
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Old 06-03-2010, 03:51 PM
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lol, i just looked at em, true that!!
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Old 06-03-2010, 04:51 PM
  #744  
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Originally Posted by gottahaveit77
I believe 6mm is correct..
Toro are you going to the pro series race at wow on july 17th?

Hey are signed up for ams this weekend?
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Old 06-03-2010, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by tony rivas
Toro are you going to the pro series race at wow on july 17th?

Hey are signed up for ams this weekend?
I'm not sure son!!
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Old 06-03-2010, 06:10 PM
  #746  
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My build was awesome. This thing has crazy corner speed. My drive train has ZERO wear at 3/4 gallon. If anyone has any issues call sepent USA and they will take of you.
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Old 06-03-2010, 06:13 PM
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TommyBlazin, tried Pming you but said your inbox was full but i got it and will have it out to you asap!
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Old 06-03-2010, 06:49 PM
  #748  
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If anyone finds an aluminum servo horn for the throttle please post. I havent needed it yet but it cant hurt.
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Old 06-03-2010, 06:52 PM
  #749  
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Well how does this car handle for those who have them already?
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Old 06-03-2010, 07:50 PM
  #750  
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Originally Posted by infanterene
If anyone finds an aluminum servo horn for the throttle please post. I havent needed it yet but it cant hurt.
I don't think the alloy horns have been released yet. I was after a set too.
Shouldn't be long.

Originally Posted by TommyBlazin
well i just got home w/my new 811 thanks to chad p. from absolute...tommy..

any other tips on build please post em up guys...thanx..chaSSIS is sweet dont wanna run it, and parts do look x-rayish?
The diffs and pinion set up is very X-Rayish, which is not a bad thing
I found the one piece bearing spacer and the nice tight fit of the bearings into the bulkheads a bonus. Plus the 3 bearing retaining screws are much more effective than the X-Ray ones, and seem to lock everything in nice and tight without the threat of stripping out.
Build is pretty simple. Manual is a little vague in parts, so just keep your wits about you.
The only thing which is good and bad, is the tightness of the screws going into the plastic parts. Most kits are tight, but this is REAL tight.
On the advice of the NZ Serpent agent, I tapped out all the screw holes first using a 3mm cap screw. The cap screw has a bigger 2.5mm hex head, which allows the use of a bigger hex driver to tap out the holes before you put in the kit screws using the 2.0mm hex wrench. Less chance of stripping out the heads on the kit screws. I actually did mine with a 2.5mm hex drive in a small variable speed power drill. Not something I would normally do - but the fit is so tight it just makes it easier. All the kit screws went in with half the effort and are snug and tight as, no problems.
The buggy looks real strong, and the drive chain is super smooth. One of the best parts is the pivot ball and bearing held sway bar system. It is totally effective and bind free - very innovative.
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