JAMMINKRAZY

iTrader: (17)

Have you ever run a car that uses standard hardware? Standard threads are more corse than metric threads. This makes wrenching on cars with standard hardware quicker and easier. Also larger screws are used in more locations than with metric hardware. This reduces the chance of stripped screws.

Also losi's don't use standard and metric. They use standard only.

madmaxx

iTrader: (1)

gee i wonder how those guy's won all those race's and championship's using such heavy, ill handling POS!

just because something is older and half the price does not make it a POS.

for the record you can get both the matrix TR FRE and the st-1 pro roller for less than $350! fully hopped up! just do your setup (oil's/shock's/alignment angle's) and add your mill, pipe and electric's and you are on the track with a REAL competitor! and extra cash in your pocket

all these "new" high priced ride's are just to cover up for the lack of tuning/driving that most people have.

you can put a bad driver/tuner in a good car and he will do fairly well. that's a given

put that same driver in a truggy that need's some time spent on setup and watch him FAIL.

it's that simple

just my $0.02

JAMMINKRAZY

iTrader: (17)

You just don't get it do you? Have you driven any of the newer truggies? Technology has come a LONG way since those trucks were released. The CEN and ST1 are old, heavy, and not competitive. That is what is simple.

RyyRyy

iTrader: (16)

hahaha, yeah the last time anyone one a race worth talkin about was ages ago... and its in a companies best intrest to produce a car that is user friendly unlike the 2 trugs you are trying to defend... your talkin in circles leading the wrong way

madmaxx

iTrader: (1)

of course the newer ride's are gonna have some improvement's over the older one's but you CAN still be competitive piloting either of those car's.

for a pro racer that race's big event's shure you want the latest, greatest, newest thing out there! THAT's a given but for 95% of people just getting into racing or truggy in general will be just as happy without spending $1500+! they can still have something that give's them the same expeience for less cash

i just see too many people jumping all over the newer stuff like white on rice it's really funny IMO too many sheep in the world

jammin crazy you got like what $3k $4k between your 2 eights? do you win EVERY race and TQ evrey heat? just curious....

JAMMINKRAZY

iTrader: (17)

The dude already said he wanted the best. He isn't looking for a budget ride. With that being the case, the CEN and TTR don't fit the bill. Not really sure they fit the bill for anything anymore to be truthful. There are other affordable trucks out there now that will blow those 2 away. Such as the losi 8T 1.0 and Mugen mbx5t. You can get either one of those as a roller for aroud $300 now. And those both are much more competitive than the cen and ttr.

jazjato

iTrader: (3)

Guys,

you need to take a serious look at that Z-truggy. I purchased the buggy and was one of the easiest builds I done or seen. There are 6 differant patent for designs, durabilty is like nothing I've seen or heard of, so you don't need parts support The Mad Russian believed in this product so much he started a business with it, and is growing his base with awesome service, and parts support.

I've got one on order and will have pics a day or two after delivery

malik

iTrader: (19)

Yeah I forgot about that 1 looks good.

MadRussian

iTrader: (3)

Yes I have, I ran Losi for several years. All had both metric AND SAE, I thought that was pretty common knowledge.
And fyi, SAE and metric have fine and coarse thread screws.
Larger screws used in more locations that with metric??
Perhaps as well you are not aware that both have sizes that exceed anything used on an RC car, so once again I am not understanding what you are trying to communicate.
I am really trying to understand your logic, but I can't really find any in your argument. I do understand that the Z-Cars are not as popular yet as the big names, but not many people even knew they existed until this Feburary when we opened Z-CarUSA, and since then they have been selling at a increasing rate, and we dont have one single unhappy Z-Car owner.
There are really no known issues other than very minor things that are easily remedied in 5-10 minutes and cost nothing. (Shoe Goo on battery tray cover as it pops off on hard landings, fixed with truggy tray, and there was a bad batch of wheels that didnt get treated correctly, so we tell people to boil the stock wheels if they want to use them.
Not to mention you can save a bit of coin, which is pretty cool in these economic times, and have a buggy or truggy thats capable of winning wherever you race and will finish.
But if it make you feel more comfortable to be able to buy at your LHS, I understand.
Personally I think I am like most serious racers and have my own supply of back up parts I may need, but other than clutch bearings, and a pinion and spur damaged because of them, I have not broken a single thing on my Z-Buggy in 4.5 gallons of racing/ hard practice

There are only 2 places to get Z-Cars and parts on a large scale, hobby people and z-carusa. Last time I checked Hobby People was a big online store, actually one of the biggest, so you may want to rethink your statement. You are very lucky if you can walk in your LHS and they have every single part for every single brand you mentioned, and are never out of any. What is the name of your LHS?

All I know is I cant wait to race mine!
Pineland rc opening weekend will also be my 1st race with the Z-Truggy

LT280z

iTrader: (28)

I dont have anything bad to say about any of them. I have had the AE, losi 1.0 & 2.0, XT8

If your a good driver and know how to properly set-up your vehicle it doesnt matter which of these truggys you choose in my opinion. The key to RC in general is to spend as much time on the track testing as possible. Knowing how to balance a chassis and set it up correctly is going to get you alot further towards the podium than the chassis itself will.

If i had to choose 1 though i would choose the Losi 1.0
(i have a 2.0 but still run faster laps with the 1.0)

My opinion is get any of them and spend the time/money at the track and not on the truggy! If money is not a problem than get the 2.0 and be done with it

(if you stay off the pipes none of them break alot of parts)

JAMMINKRAZY

iTrader: (17)

I am not referring to random hardware, but what is used on RC cars. In which case the metric hardware has finer pitch threads. That is simple and to me makes wrenching with standard hardware easier. When I made my comment about larger hardware, I was commenting on the fact that a large majority of standard hardware used on RC cars has the 3/32 hex head size. This reduces the chances of a stripped screw.

I have nothing against the Z-car. I don't know why you are getting so defensive. I have no doubt in my mind that they are great cars. I can't comment about them because I have no experience with them. The point I am trying to make is that they are not supported as well as some of the bigger brands. I hope one day they can grow enough that they will have the same level of support. That would only help this hobby. My point is that they are not at that stage yet.

Some of the big online stores I was referring to are places like Carolinas RC, Amain hobbies, Tilted rc, Mod hobby, Tower hobbies, Horizon hobby, etc....

Hobby People fits in there too, but that is just 1.

I have about 5 LHS's in my area (within about 45 min). They all carry losi and associated parts. 2 of them carry mugen, and 1 kyosho.

SPEED37

iTrader: (3)

Well said, It's alot more about God given talent and learned skill's (practice) that are gonna make you fast and make your truck last. Lots of bench racin' going on around here.

Frank L

iTrader: (148)

For the latest technology you are going to pay a higher price. It is never the car its always the driver. A fast driver will be fast no matter what car he drives. There are charastics to each truck that make them better suited to each indivudal driver. I let a fellow racer drive my 8T 2.0 and he hated it because it is very smooth and consistent when compared to his ST-RR. He likes the be able to get the truck out of shape easily and toss it around and power like a light switch. I like a smoother more gradual driving style. The ST-RR fits him well and the 8T 2.0 fits me well.

When it comes to the cost well this hobby is not cheap. It's an average 2k just to get the truck rolling (when you include radio, engine, truck, servos, gas, glow, ect) and that does not include any spare parts. When I sold my 8T and purchased the new 2.0 I installed $400+ of hop up parts into it before it even hit the dirt (smart diffs, adj braces, lightened outdrives, ez change engine mount, alum top plate, alum spindels ect.) I know I didnt have to but I wanted the truck to be at its full potential right out of the box. I am not a sponsered driver I just enjoy the hobby and all that goes with it. Not everyone is going to do this but that is just what I did.

LT280z

iTrader: (28)

Thank you sir

This is the exact reason i still prefer the 1.0 on tighter tracks with full heats
On a larger more flowing track with more high speed turns i would definetely use the 2.0 for the consistency

MadRussian

iTrader: (3)

Sorry I didnt mean to seem defensive, Jamminkrazy, I was just trying to understand your points better, as I was a bit confused I suck at communicating
On the metric vs SAE, 3mm is larger than 3/32, and 2.5 is close. If its quality hardware and appropriately spec'd by Engineers then stripping shouldn't be a problem