R/C Tech Forums

hey yall new to the forum and the hobby..just bought a new 8t 2.0 rtr and am having the hardest time ever getting it to start...so first things first i charged all my batteries set up starter box n went out to break it in pre heated the engine loosened the glow plug primed the carb n went at itt, piston stuck at tdc..so unstuck it n went at it again for the same thing to happen ocasionally it would turn over but not fire sometime would sound like it was trying to fire n wouldnt turn over actually started up once after a few hours n me hooking up the starter box to my car battery but only ran for about 30sec ive tried it all stock carb settings everything i just dont get it im nee to the nitro motors but pretty mechanically inclined overall and to top it off i just moved to north platte nebraska from phoenix az so the only hobby shop i have sells more guns than they do hobby stuff lol.....so basically any help tips watever would be greatly appreciared or if i should jus keep goin at it n hope for the best haha :((: i was sooo stoked when i got my 3 boxes of goodies in the mail now im sad heh

For sure call that guy if he can walk you through it. But if that doesnt help Hobbyplex USA in Omaha NE is the biggest baddest RC place on the planet.

Look em up.

Bus	05-28-2012 06:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by l3asher (Post 10787840)

I run that pack in my gen 3 tray, fits snug so I took a little off the bottom to suit my liking. I also left the balance plug on the outside thru a grommet so it air tight.

Cool, thanks. Will do I had nailed down a life pack last year " viper Racing" and apparently they went out of business. The following year. So lesson learned buy two life packs at a time one for back up :-)

Although still running my first life pack in my 2.0 with no issues in two years :-)

Jake C6R

05-28-2012 06:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s10sdeville (Post 10787549)

Yeah these can be a real pain to start when they are new. Put a few drops of after run oil down the glow plug hole and put the plug back in. Warm the engine up with a heat gun before trying to start it and it will turn over a lot easier. If you don't have one use a hair dryer and get it good and hot around the crankcase and cooling head. What settings are you using on the HSN and LSN? Mine was a pain to break in as well. I found 3 turns on the HSN and LSN worked great for break-in settings.

PUDDIN

05-28-2012 07:50 AM

http://www.venom-group.com/Store/Lan...iPO-RX-HUMP-RX

Been running this battery in my radio tray. Very small tons of room left in box and makes hour long mains no problem. Best thing about it. Less than 20.00 bucks.

vito	05-28-2012 07:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PUDDIN (Post 10788159)

thanks i love there packs got 5 bucks to use at a main ill have it done in a week.

s10sdeville

05-28-2012 04:16 PM

thanks for the tips guys might just try messen with the needle settings some cuz ive been pre heating got diff glow plugs even did the after run oil...it sux i work two jobs so only free tine i have is like 3am till sunrise lol n neighbors pribally wouldnt like me trying to get this thing started then haha so when i get a day off ill be back at it

vito	05-28-2012 05:57 PM

i pick up the money in the am and off to get a boat load from a mian to get my kit done.

aznitronut

05-28-2012 05:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s10sdeville (Post 10789992)

You want to pre heat the engine at least 200 degrees before trying to start it, anything much lower, it will just stick at tdc '

mikesd1980

05-28-2012 06:29 PM

Didnt do a search and dont know if had been mentioned before.... anywayI'm having issues with the front drive shafts coming out of the drive cups. the only way i can drive it without the drive shafts coming out is to take away the droop and run the front end level. Any idea of why this is happening and what i can do to fix it.

Jerm13

05-28-2012 06:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikesd1980 (Post 10790543)

Sound like 1 of 2 things. Did you recently replace any part of the front end? If yes than look at that as your cause.

Other thing is to check for bent parts like hinge pins, pin holders blown out bearings in the hubs or diff. Hope this helps.

l3asher

05-28-2012 07:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikesd1980 (Post 10790543)

How old is the truck? Losi did a running change to the dog bones. They should be 150mm, the old ones where 148mm. Take them out and measure them.

mikesd1980

05-28-2012 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by l3asher (Post 10790702)

How old is the truck? Losi did a running change to the dog bones. They should be 150mm, the old ones where 148mm. Take them out and measure them.

Thanks. Will look into that. The truck is 3 years old. I replaced the front arms, diff housing, gears, sway bars, outdrives but not cvds. When I ran it for the first time the cvd popped out. This have never happened before and is something new since I brought the truck...

traitor

05-28-2012 07:56 PM

My kit was new at begining of last year,it was a kit not a roller and I had the same problem. I tried everything at a bigger race couldn't finish a qual. found out it was indeed the driveshafts were too short. I would go straight too measuring your driveshaft.

vito	05-30-2012 10:36 AM

ok the 2013 pipe at amain is out of stock. i have a b5 motor whats a good low end pipe thats in stock

Jerm13

05-30-2012 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vito (Post 10798042)

ok the 2013 pipe at amain is out of stock. i have a b5 motor whats a good low end pipe thats in stock

Go to www.clockworkracingengines.com. They always have them in stock and for the same price. shipping will be the same. Neal and John will take care of you. Give them a call! If not, get a JP-1. They works almost as good.

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