What do you mean you've modded your spindles an a-arms? I've never heard of that one before.

Chad

Does anybody know the dimesions ( HxWxL) in millimeters of the battery box with the hump lid? LHS is selling out of Reedy 6.6 LiFe's Rx packs for $20. Dont mid modding the lid but just want to know about how much.
I kind of looked on A-Main at the specs for the Losi and Pro-Tek Lipos and got a good idea. looks to be about 11-12 mm taller than the Lipo's.
BTW, Im on vacation and my gear is on the other side of the country or I would look myself. Just rolling some ideas for next year. :tire::tire::tire:

I am looking for some information. I am starting to do some upgrading to my truggy, and was thinking about getting the upgrade spindles. But I was wondering how the different degrees of incline affect your suspension and handling. I know a lot of guys are going to the 10 degree inclines, and was wondering how this helps or changes handling. Thanks

Chad

I like the inclined spindles. 10 degree inclined will give you more steering entering the turn. 12 degree give more steering exiting the turn. The inclined spindles in general give more steering and a better feel in the corners than the stock non-inclined 12 degree spindles imo.

Just installed the V3 radio tray last night on my 8T 2.0. As long as you follow the direction exactly (make sure the throttle servo horn is correctly aligned, make sure the linkage is the correct length, and set your epa correctly) than the fitment and functionality are great.

I will test it out on the track this week hopefully.

I like this design much better than the original 2.0 tray. The swing link rides on bearings and feels pretty rigid. Just the bolt that screws into the battery box alone is worth the price. About time Losi put a metal insert there. That bolt always came loose and eventually stripped in the 2.0 tray. It's nice that the throttle servo is away from the engine, and I'll find out soon if the new weight distribution makes a difference in handling. Also, there is less side to side flex in the tray at full brake.

Things that can be improved are including some sort of guides for the servo wires. You might run into potential rubbing issues depending on how you route your servo wires. The servo fit is tight, but can be installed without too much hassle (I tried Savox, Airtronics, and Hitec and all fit). Sometime helps to install servos first and then install the metal brace. It would also be nice to have an insert for those that don't run switches like they had for the 2.0 tray, so the battery box doesn't have an unused switch cutout. Lastly, a metal swing link would be a nice touch. I alway had issues with ovaling out the plastic throttle servo horn with the 2.0 tray.

Well I finally got some running in with my V2 tower. I put the shocks in the new hole on the tower and the truck seemed to carry more corner speed and handled better. Now I want to try the new camber link holes.

If you are running the 10 deg inclined spindles I was told by Drake the early batches needed to be ground for more travel but the next generation batches were manufactured with the extra throw in them,no grinding needed.
Mabey you have the newer version so if you ground them then you would have additional throw causing the rubbing.

I am just thinking out loud.I have the 10 deg inclined but have not installed them yet.Not sure if I have the old or new version.Don't know how to tell either.

I just got the new aluminum vented shock caps for my 8t. I was wondering what the exact benefits of these are. Also, I need to ask if you use all the same stock bladders for this shock cap? Or do you need different bladders or anything? I also got the small circle foam inserts for my shocks. I just assumed they are used with the vented shock caps. Any ideas on these? Thanks.

Chad

sorry i didnt see this



ive always modded my stock plastic spindles like people do with the inclined set but the issue you encounter is the wheels will hit the arms. A local racer started modding his aarms right where the wheels hit the arms so you get more throw. my truggy will out turn any truggy out there now

Cool, thanks man. So you just dremmel in a little bit into the a arm to get a little more throw? Ever have any issues with breaking an a arm on this spot that you dremmel?

Chad

Nope just don't do to much . Just do enough that the Wheels don't dig into the arms

pics please

Just look at where the wheel potentially contacts the arm at full lock. dremel for clearance.

wheel wobble
 

I am having a lot of difficulty eliminating wheel slop particularly in the front end.

I have put in new wheel bearings.

I have put in new drive spindles.

I have placed washers on the outsde of the wheel and really done them up tight. Noting that they have been located on the 17mm drive spindles correctly first of course.

The slop is even and in all directions, ie in the direction the wheels turn and the perpendiclar axis.

The slop is not in the suspensions arms, I have checked this whilst investigating the wheel slop, and is not in the steering linkages

I am running two race rollers ( one for a spare car ) and they both have the problem. I admitt they have done some miles now and the issue has recently got worse.

Would the aluminium hubs eliminate this problem or would it be best to replace them with the plastic versions.

You opinions would be appreciated.

John

It's just the way Losi's are! Loose is fast!! That's why a setup board is pretty much useless. I just eyeball and run it and see how it feels. Even when it's loose like that, you can still feel any changes you make(for the most part anyway). The aluminium stuff helps a little, but there's still going to be some play no mater what you do.