Hi everyone! I want to make some questions about the TLR 8ight-T 2.0, have a friend of mine that has 3 of them and the problem is that it keep braking the rear diff(the pinion and ring gear). For the last race we try all new parts on all; diff case, pinion/ring gear set, bearings, etc...We shimmed correctly with no play at all, but the 3 complete rear diff's broke during the race!!!
Does anyone have any tips can help me? My friend is so pist off at the point he want's to sell all his losi stuff...!
Thanks in advance!
Manuel from Argentina

somebody have a good start setup for high grip astro track,s

there are a few parts back there, what broke?

Manuel , you said you shim to where there is no movement , is there a spot where it binds a little when you spun the ring and pinion ? You want it tight enough where you can feel that High spot, not a complete bind but it will a little. Also are you checking the mesh after you run it ? The gears will break in and your mesh will loosen , for the first gallon you wanna check it like every other tank, after that just keep an eye on the mesh . One more thing to check is the center rear drive shaft , you need to have the diff out and push the pinion against the bearing , not with much force just to make sure it stats against the bearing , then push the rear center drive shaft on the pinion and push it against the other bearing , while keepin them both against the bearing tighten the set screw. This keeps the pinion from moving back and forth which would change the mesh

Looking at the Drake setup sheets with the V2 rear tower, how are the four camber holes numbered? The setup sheet only shows the two original holes so not sure which holes are 1,2,3,4.

View looking rear to front-
Lower outside - 1?
Upper outside - 2?
Lower inside -
Upper inside -

He still has camber link 1 being used on the V2 setup sheet but not sure how the holes are actually numbered. I don't have my V2 tower yet or I would look.

Thanks,

+++1....setting the pinion depth is critical...just like on a 1/1 car. can only do it correctly, though, by having the pinion installed in the case prior to sticking the diff in the case...this way you can LIGHTLY push in on the pinion while tightening the grub screw on the drive shaft.........and, do like i do...use molly EP grease on the ring/pinion...

sombody try the new radio tray in the truggy

how are the benefits
losi say you get some more steering

How much more steering is needed, there's tons of steering already.

Tony you haven't driven my truggy , had Vareck mod my spindles and arms , I have it out turning any truggy out there , better then most Buggys even. I haven't tried the new tray with the mods done tho , it's installed in buggy but haven't touched truggy

Maybe so, The losi truck still steer very well, jmo.

I agree but IMO I would rather have to much steering and just not turn all the way then to push hard Into corners

I ground on my front spindles and carriers to add more travel as well. What I noticed after that was the wheels would hit the front turnbuckles. I had to limit my epa and it just barely turns better than stock now.

How are ya'll getting around the wheels hitting the turnbuckles? I think mine when it wasn't modded could hit the tb's too. So my modding really didn't help it much.

I have NEVER heard of a problem like this. 3 diffs back to back is just unheard of unless the shimming is totally off track or the pinion isn't set correctly causing the gears to jam together and lock up.

I've ran losi buggies and truggies for years and never once had a diff go out on me. I also check them pretty routinely as well.

Hmm I've never had that issue . I have my spindles and arms modded and mine don't hit the turnbuckle , I honestly wouldn't even know where to start to diagnose that without looking at it

Anyone? Seen post three pages back where someone recommended using hole #3, how are the V2 tower camber holes numbered?

Thanks,