These are the shafts my new truck came with, same setup as the old one. Front shaft sits a lot further into the out drive.

http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/w...a/IMAG0020.jpg

Reversing The Servo Saver Arm
 

I checked through this thread and couldn't find anything on this, so I figured I'd go ahead and ask everyone.

Has anyone reversed the linkage from the steering servo to the servo saver arm from the standard stock inside position (above the front center cva), to the outside - meaning reversing the servo arm, steering rod and servo saver arm so they are now on the outside (over the receiver box)?

I've seen a few people run this set-up and they told me it increases the truggy's steering speed and torque.

Before I give it a try, I wanted to see if anyone has tried doing this and if there were any benefits/problems with this setup.

Thanks

Ive never seen why would you mod the current has good steering but everything needs to be setup correct. Also the carriers will stop the spindle and I cant see where you would gain.

I tried this.I also modded the hubs and carriers and arms for more throw. You need a longer servo horn as well(one more hole compared to standard losi horn) to get the linkage to line up correctly..Here's the long and short of it.Does it work? Yes.Does it equate to faster lap times? No. Not at least for the average driver. Front tires turn so fast and at such an angle you loose grip until the tires bite,then it wants to snap the rear end around. Not easy to drive and makes things very unpredictable..No need to re invent the wheel.If it made the truck better everyone would be doing it,or there would be a steering upgrade ava...Just my experience

is it true that new trucks come with longer front and rear drive shafts and the lightened outdrives front rear and center?

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My truck is new but I added the lightened out drives to it on my own.

As for the shafts.... since the front and rear shafts share the same part number I would have to say YES the new truck has longer front and rear outer drive shafts. It's not just the front or the fronts would have their own part number. The part number is for F/R shafts!

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Hum, if so, then why dont the new "FRONT" have a different part number? Doesnt sound right....

Well I am sorry but I think you misunderstood him. The spindles have nothing to do with my old truck and new truck having the shaft sit in different places. The pictures I posted are of two different trucks with the exact same set of inclined aluminum splindles.. I removed the inclined spindles from the truck that had the shaft at the edge of the cup and put them on the new truck which you can see has the bones sitting much farther into the out drive.

erase that last quote...i wasnt thinking when i posted that....:D...there not making them availiable to purchase cause if there is a problem then its their fault and should be fixed for free:D....and the new spindles are now corecct....hey chris....can you by anychance measure a front and rear shaft on the new car and then the front and rear on the old car...i bet they are all the same length:sneaky:

just stating exactly what i was told!....:D...that would trip me out though for sure....can you measure them on the old car and see if the front and rear are the same.....i talk to adam at every race out here in cali so i could let him know this info....hell i can even tell him on FB:lol:Fb:lol: every one has 1:D

I believe you, but like I said I do not use their so called incorrectly milled spindles. I use the inclined spindles, and I used the set from the old truck on the new truck so the only things that are different are either the A-Arms or the shafts. It's very obvious in the pics that it sits further in the out drive. Either the shafts on my new truck are longer or the Arms are shorter because the spindles are ruled out in my case.

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I like to use the ball drivers for the top engine mount screws. Normally you can't get a straight shot at them due to the width of the engine heads.