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servo
I used that model before:( It just cant handle it ,I went thru 1 every weekend. My buddy uses a JR 650!! been having good luck with it for the price!! I use the JR 9000s same servo for 2 years :nod::nod:
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Originally Posted by deadmancourt
(Post 7684404)
ANYBODY HAVE A GOOD THROTTLE SERVO FOR THIS TRUCK FOR ABOUT $40!....I HAVE BEEN RUNNING THE HITEC HS-645MG AND HAVE GONE THROUGH 3 OF EM BUT ONLY HAD TO PAY FOR THE 1ST 1!...HERE IS THE LINK TO THE SERVO!...DO I NEED MORE TORQUE OR SPEED OR WHAT?:flaming:
http://www.hitecrcd.com/products/ser.../hs-645mg.html Good luck. |
Originally Posted by deadmancourt
(Post 7684478)
well i checked the clearence thing and it is fine!...it does not go anywhere near the chassis or the chassis gaurds!
Another thing is your EPA's. You need to set your throttle EPA so that there is about 1mm or pull at full throttle. I.E. you need to be able to pull the carb open 1-2mm more than your servo does at full throttle. This allows for chassis flex. Without it, you will burn servos up like crazy. Honestly, I just don't think the 645 is enough servo for 1/8 scale use, especially a truggy and a losi one at that(they're notoriously hard on servos).;) |
Time for another center front d/s. Do you guys have any recommendations, or stay with stock??
I know on the d8t that i previously owned, mugen and kyosho d/s worked also, any of the will work for the losi??? |
Don't know of any others that work. I just use the stock ones.;)
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make sure your center outdrives arent worn out with sharp edges, those will help contribute to the drive shaft wearing out quicker.
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Originally Posted by DuckStang
(Post 7688337)
Time for another center front d/s. Do you guys have any recommendations, or stay with stock??
I know on the d8t that i previously owned, mugen and kyosho d/s worked also, any of the will work for the losi??? |
Originally Posted by hambone
(Post 7688513)
Buy a pack of mugen pins and replace the worn pin. It's not hard and i usually change them twice. I'm at work so i'm guessing the p/n is mugc0270. They are 3x12.7 or 12.8 mm. Drive the old pin out and tap the new pin in. It's a piece of cake.
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Lightened out drives and spur gear, are they worth it?
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Originally Posted by Frank L
(Post 7689406)
Anyone ever try the hudy pins? They are slightly longer but I don't see how that matters.
Yes they wear very near the same as the mugen and Xray pins. As far as length...the 14's are on par with wheel bones but wont go in the center's.
Originally Posted by l3asher
(Post 7690170)
Lightened out drives and spur gear, are they worth it?
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Originally Posted by l3asher
(Post 7690170)
Lightened out drives and spur gear, are they worth it?
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Originally Posted by l3asher
(Post 7690170)
Lightened out drives and spur gear, are they worth it?
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does anyone run a 3-shoe setup with their 2.0? I've just started trying and looking for tips or suggestions. I made a shoe and spring change and it totally transformed the truck. I didn't expect such a dramatic difference.
I started with 3 aluminum with 1.0 springs. But there was this bog for about 5 feet out of the corners. I tried tuning the needles on the engine but never figured it out. So I changed the clutch to 2 alum. with 1.1 and 1 carbon with 1.0. Was that too large of a change for the 3 shoe setup? I really like how hard it pulls and should work great on blue groove tracks. However on a dry loose track there's no way it will work. LOL. |
Anyone know if J-DUB is still around and modding the rear hubs???
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Originally Posted by Toiffel
(Post 7695462)
Anyone know if J-DUB is still around and modding the rear hubs???
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