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-   -   8T 2.0 (https://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-off-road/256312-8t-2-0-a.html)

Integra 06-05-2010 10:38 AM

:blush: No problemo bobbyblaze. :nod:

losi_racer 06-05-2010 11:17 AM

k guys need opinions.

My dad bought a brand new 8t 2.0 off a buddy of ours who went to mugen after building this 8t. it has lighten outdrives, lightened 48 spur,v2 tower,alum chassis brace front and rear,alum servo saver top,+ 2mm Wheel Hexes all way around. and m2c hinge pin braces.

The first qualifer he broke the bell crank right below the servo saver top. wasnt a bad crash but i could see it. Second qualifer same thing, but this time i didnt see the crash, he talked with bill fisher and he gave him the plastic top. during his main the m2c brace broke in half, the bad thing is he didnt crash, it landed perfect on the downside of a jump, rolled the next and it broke. keep in mind i had his truck apart looking at his whole front end seeing if somethin was up and they didnt look damaged at all.

He said this truck is really twitchy, i havent driven it so idk. I told him it does need to break in but when i break in trucks its not like i cant drive it. he said his engine seems to have tons of power and other thing i cant come up with is the lightened out drives? but the 48 spur would counter act any bottom the lightened driveline gave him right?

I told him to take m2c stuff off put losi hinge pin brace on(not saying m2c is bad just didnt work for him, he has never broken a losi brace since 8t2.0 came out), told him replace the rear chassis brace with plastic. Is there anything else i am missing, i told him the +2mm extenders would make it more stable not twitchy right? Ive never driven the truck btw so i dont have first hand exp of the truck

builtb16a 06-05-2010 11:25 AM

- clutch springs..

no matter what composite shoes your using, the theory behind springs is the softer the spring, the sooner the shoes engage the bell?

the stiffer the spring, the longer delay, higher REV engine, and more harsh engagement right?

so softer springs should allow shoes to wear less, and last longer since they're not being smoked, even though they're engaged sooner, correct?

one of the local pro's suggested i run 2 gold, and 2 green's on my long life losi shoes.

losi_racer 06-05-2010 11:29 AM


Originally Posted by builtb16a (Post 7501871)
- clutch springs..

no matter what composite shoes your using, the theory behind springs is the softer the spring, the sooner the shoes engage the bell?

the stiffer the spring, the longer delay, higher REV engine, and more harsh engagement right?

so softer springs should allow shoes to wear less, and last longer since they're not being smoked, even though they're engaged sooner, correct?

one of the local pro's suggested i run 2 gold, and 2 green's on my long life losi shoes.

if your commenting on my post, he used the same combo in his old truck. 2 alum 2 comp, 2 gold 2 green

builtb16a 06-05-2010 11:35 AM

sorry you were caught with the stray bullet..

i was just asking a clutch spring question to the 8T gods. this is the losi thread btw. ;)

losi_racer 06-05-2010 11:45 AM


Originally Posted by builtb16a (Post 7501898)
sorry you were caught with the stray bullet..

i was just asking a clutch spring question to the 8T gods. this is the losi thread btw. ;)

yes i do know that smart ass. i wasnt sure if u were commenting or not.

bobbyblaze 06-05-2010 12:40 PM

right now i only us the +2mm hex bubs on the rear for stability and on power traction out of the turn, for the front i use stock hubs..to me it steers better

clutch setups i just now getting the hang of ...right now im using long life shoes 2 green & 2 gold but going to try 4 gold for more punch for my ninja and for tires i fell in love witb aka's cityblocks & ibeams

Frank L 06-05-2010 03:34 PM


Originally Posted by losi_racer (Post 7501853)
k guys need opinions.

My dad bought a brand new 8t 2.0 off a buddy of ours who went to mugen after building this 8t. it has lighten outdrives, lightened 48 spur,v2 tower,alum chassis brace front and rear,alum servo saver top,+ 2mm Wheel Hexes all way around. and m2c hinge pin braces.

The first qualifer he broke the bell crank right below the servo saver top. wasnt a bad crash but i could see it. Second qualifer same thing, but this time i didnt see the crash, he talked with bill fisher and he gave him the plastic top. during his main the m2c brace broke in half, the bad thing is he didnt crash, it landed perfect on the downside of a jump, rolled the next and it broke. keep in mind i had his truck apart looking at his whole front end seeing if somethin was up and they didnt look damaged at all.

He said this truck is really twitchy, i havent driven it so idk. I told him it does need to break in but when i break in trucks its not like i cant drive it. he said his engine seems to have tons of power and other thing i cant come up with is the lightened out drives? but the 48 spur would counter act any bottom the lightened driveline gave him right?

I told him to take m2c stuff off put losi hinge pin brace on(not saying m2c is bad just didnt work for him, he has never broken a losi brace since 8t2.0 came out), told him replace the rear chassis brace with plastic. Is there anything else i am missing, i told him the +2mm extenders would make it more stable not twitchy right? Ive never driven the truck btw so i dont have first hand exp of the truck

Lots of drivers have issues with the servo saver. I had issues with the 1.0 setup but not the 2.0 setup, these issues are due to the saver being set too tight. Take off the M2C stuff and go with the solid KHZ braces, it will cost more to make changes but the losi ones do break. I have had more than one DNF due to a busted plastic insert. The truck does need to break in. What fluid are you running? I have ran the +2mm on the truck for awhile and I like them. I dont think it makes the truck twitchy in any way.

W.E.D.Jim 06-05-2010 04:37 PM

Losi Racer, I don't have any experience with the TL truggy, but I can surely say if you want to build a calm easy to drive truck, you don't want lightened driveline parts, that goes for any brand.
I can also say with confidence that no parts break with smooth flat landings, so most likely those parts were broken previously and not spotted during repairs at that time.

Sounds like Frank has you set with the bellcrank issues.

For easier driving truck, use lighter center diff oils and go lighter in all the diffs is a BIG change is needed. You can also lay the shocks in a hole if you have another one to go to inside.


The good news is it is easier to get a truggy hooked up then it is to get one to steer that doesn't want to!!! (Aside from using no front brakes, haha)



...Jim
W.E.D.
www.wedjim.com

losi_racer 06-05-2010 05:15 PM


Originally Posted by Frank L (Post 7502437)
Lots of drivers have issues with the servo saver. I had issues with the 1.0 setup but not the 2.0 setup, these issues are due to the saver being set too tight. Take off the M2C stuff and go with the solid KHZ braces, it will cost more to make changes but the losi ones do break. I have had more than one DNF due to a busted plastic insert. The truck does need to break in. What fluid are you running? I have ran the +2mm on the truck for awhile and I like them. I dont think it makes the truck twitchy in any way.

The first bellcrank that broke i would agree it was to tight, the second one he had billy fisher build, along with the third. On his old truggy he ran the losi hinge pin brace and we found out if we change the inserts once a day we didnt have and more dnf's, it took me a while to stopped getting those with those inserts. Fluids are 7/10/2, Idk shocks, i think 40 and 30 but idk not my truck. His old one is fine just worn out. He saids its very twitchy which i think is just a new car, tight components, he said he had to barley get on the throttle last night or he would spin out, he ran the same tires as me and i had ok traction until my rear diff fluid started to fade. This track is real blown and and loomy so you dont have great traction but with the ibeams all around its the best i have found with testing i have done


Originally Posted by W.E.D.Jim (Post 7502568)
Losi Racer, I don't have any experience with the TL truggy, but I can surely say if you want to build a calm easy to drive truck, you don't want lightened driveline parts, that goes for any brand.
I can also say with confidence that no parts break with smooth flat landings, so most likely those parts were broken previously and not spotted during repairs at that time.

Sounds like Frank has you set with the bellcrank issues.

For easier driving truck, use lighter center diff oils and go lighter in all the diffs is a BIG change is needed. You can also lay the shocks in a hole if you have another one to go to inside.


The good news is it is easier to get a truggy hooked up then it is to get one to steer that doesn't want to!!! (Aside from using no front brakes, haha)



...Jim
W.E.D.
www.wedjim.com


i told him the lightened driveline will make it more responsive , when i put it on my truggy i loved it, i told him to use it for a gallon so the truck breaks in and see how it feels after that

Frank L 06-05-2010 05:18 PM

Jim the losi lightened drivetrain parts are actually stronger and more resistant to wear them the stock parts. Now manke no mistake I am talking about the losi parts. I have tried fioroni lightened parts and I won't maketyat mistake again. On the steering servo saver I actually run all 2.0 parts spring included and they have been good to me. Loosen up the saver that solves allthe issues.

malcnz 06-05-2010 07:17 PM

If its got alloy braces front and rear it would make it feel twitchy and loose..get rid of them and go to factory :nod:

Ron Goetter 06-05-2010 07:43 PM


Originally Posted by malcnz (Post 7503041)
If its got alloy braces front and rear it would make it feel twitchy and loose..get rid of them and go to factory :nod:

Yes ditch the alumin braces. I actually believe you bought my truck. Did you get it from Vareck? If so it didn't have those braces on it when he got it. It also had a 1.0 servo saver setup on it that is reversed so the horn faces out on the truck instead of in.

losi_racer 06-05-2010 08:18 PM


Originally Posted by malcnz (Post 7503041)
If its got alloy braces front and rear it would make it feel twitchy and loose..get rid of them and go to factory :nod:

he got rid of the rear. front is good on any track. it keeps the flex out of the radio tray at the steering servo. it doesnt affect handling what so ever. Billy fisher gave me this tip and been running this way for a long time now

Trevor Williams 06-06-2010 07:35 AM

who has the v2 rear tower in stock?


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