They made that change some time ago now. Just went back to the 1.0 parts.;)

2wd?? lol
 

Alright guys..

I have searched all over the site for some assistance, and havent found anything that really pertains..

I have a 8ight T E 2.0, MMMv3 / NeuCastle 2200kv motor, and I run 4s 5000mah - Its awesome.

I have played quite a bit with the suspension, and have it working quite nicely... Now, I know I am risking a lot of replies saying "Stay off the throttle", but the question I have here is,

HOW THE HELL do you keep the front end on the ground under quick to full acceleration? AKA: going 1/2 throttle into a straight - getting on it, and you are instantly the "wheelie king"! 2WD with no steering! :ACK:

Although I dont mind putting on a show for the spectators, It is really kind of frusterating not being able to utilize all the power... Should I dial the throttle curve down to look like a skateboarders quarterpipe? would that help?

Sorry for asking all the questions, but back in the day, When I raced...we didnt even have NIMH's, lol just NICD, and 1400SCR and the bad boy 1700 SCE's were the shizz!

No Lipos, laptops, droop gauges, etc... Man - I guess that makes me an RC caveman.

:lol:

What oil are you running in your center diff? You could always go to a lighter weight, which will send more power to the front tires under accelleration.

For example, if you're running 10k, you might try dropping to 7k. However, I think the best solution is, as you stated, better throttle control.

Of course, you could add a couple pounds of weight to the front bumper........ :lol:

-Howard

Just turn the power down :)


Connect to your castle link and change these settings...

Start power = low
Timing = 0
Punch control = 100%

That will limit the burst amp output of the battery. If that is not enough, then go to your throttle curve graph and switch to the concave profile. That will take the linear response out of the trigger. Lastly, you can't drive an electric like a nitro.....blipping the throttle will only heat the system up and draw unnecessary amps.

What's up Jose-haven't seen you on here in a while. Jose is the MAN when it comes to the flashlights (sorry couldn't resist). All he runs is electrics and does pretty darn good with them.

Don't forget about Madmaxx next sat., John redid the track, should be a blast-i ran a few tanks last saturday and it's better than the last layout-most of the track is left to right this time. Bring a crowd and come on down, gotta get some running in before RC Pro in 2 weeks.

Yeah I don't get alot of time to get on the boards anymore. Our race season is full tilt right now so its balls to the wall.

I am planning to try to make the trip to madmaxx, just depends on how my pregnant wife feels that day....lol

Question for you guys. In the roller kit, should there be some body clips, switch, screws and losi logo for the radio tray? Im missing all four.:confused:

A switch is something you need to get on your own, but everything else should be in the radiotray bag.

Ok

Agreed! I run the same system in my 8ight-E 2.0 and I have it toned down to the point where it is very drivable. There are a ton of things you can do with the Castle Link software and many things you can do with your radio.

I personally have the curve adjusted to be slightly(maybe a bit more than slightly:D) concave and my punch control is at like 40% or something. Stock timing and start power. I have never lowered the timing or start power, but I have been meaning to mess around with them some in hopes of making my system even cooler running. I generally see temps around 115* on the motor after a qualifier and close to 125* after a 10 minute main. So that really isn't bad as it is.

Anyway I would start with some radio/ESC setting changes before you start changing setup of the chassis.:nod:

Yep, Definately gonna have to tweak the ESC..

The current diff fluids are:

Front 7k
center 30k
rear 5k

so you think 10k in the center (IF i decide to try to correct it through the chassis as well)

Hey guys. I am having a bit of trouble getting full rebound out of them. So I was wondering what is your process in getting the full rebound out of the shocks. If you maybe can help me out and give me an idea on how to do so that would be great.

Thanks

7000/10000/3000 Losi oil

HELP
 

A couple days ago I got the losi fuel filter (the one that you can open up and clean it out). I was wondering what way you put it in. Do you put it in so when the fuel enters the fuel filter it passes through the filter part right away or vice-versa?

you want the screen last....so essentially allow the filter to fill up then filter out.