Thanks for everyone help grand opening was this past Sunday the facility is call the sand box out of Honolulu Hawaii it features a BMX, Motocross, RC, and four wheeler venues with a awesome view.

Since I have a ton of AKA city Ill try the i beam mix Frank I believe you run SD front and center and 5 K rear I run 7K F SD center (2-.20 springs) and 5K rear your suggestion! what would be your setup on a loose track running only the center SD.

Make a trip out to Hawaii Ill be happy too take you.

Front 35K black Rear 32.5 Grey spring 3 degree camber stock rear, Toe front 1rear 2

:D...planing my fight now

I remember there being a post about this a While back.....MORE PICS please. :nod:

Here you go

Attachment 506507

Attachment 506508

Attachment 506509

Attachment 506510

Attachment 506511

you should find the old thread and update it with these pics....also so we can discuss it there rather then here.;)


No driver's stand yet ill assume ?

What is everyone using for the throttle servo arms. I noticed a lot of play in where the brake actuator attaches. Are we stuck with the plastic servo arm and all the slop?

You know I actually run a pretty much box stock setup with a few changes. I use a 3-3 rear toe plate and I lighten the shock oil up to 27.5 rear and 32.5 front, stock springs and pistons. I run the center SD with 2 .15 springs with 2 coils cut off and the shims behind the sun gears. I would try 10k up front and then 7 if you dont have enough steering. You can also loosen up the rear to 3k. Another thing to play with is the front droop in 2mm increments lower the droop to gain more steering. I like to stick with a pretty much stock setup and then drive the truck to the conditions. Tires are one of the most important tuning tools I use. You can also try the shorter rear camber links. I just got them today and I havent tried them yet. I ordered the front shorter link and I am going to use it in the rear.

I am on my second stock throttle/brake horn, but mine seem to get sloppy on the throttle side. The hole in the horn gets ovaled out after time and then you dont get instant throttle responce. I modded an extra linkage set-up I had to except a alluminum horn. Its seems pretty good. I will run it this weekend and see. I was curious too if anyone has done this. In past posts the info has been to stick with the stock one but, they just arent lasting very long.

Thanks Frank just received my camber links and king headz plates today :) will move the front up and rear down for diff oil along with Ibeams in the back and blocks up front will let you know how it works out.

I modded a dynamite throttle horn by enlarging the holes using a cordless drill started with a small bit and moved up in bit size until the throttle linkage was snug works great no slop check your EPA make sure you not killing the arm the throttle side>> carb slide should only pass the Ventura if you are using make sure your adjustment on the brake side is correct your tray shouldnt be yanking.

Hey,

I am doing a winter rebuild and on the last race the year bent a CV Driveshaft that goes from the diff to the wheel hex. So I was wondering. Since I have to replace the part, is there a better option out there or is the best option to stick with stock.

Thanks

I was more concerned on the brake side of the horn and I was going to go the aluminum route until I looked at the brake actuator that comes through the horn. It's tapered and it's smaller on the bottom, so you have to make the hole large enough to get the actuator through and then it's too large for the bottom that normally sits in it.

I used an Al horn and put a washer on the brake side, nice and snug.