slow coach

been told to build mine full, turn the gears when filled to release any trapped air within the diff casing then fill just below level and wait for the air to escape, when you drop the top gear in oil should be flush if not top up, when the crown gear is screwed down it should bleed any excess oil out the screw holes,the reason for this I have been told is to make sure there are no air pockets inside, if you have air it heats up and then expands faster than the oil and can force the oil out faster making the diff become inconsistent, TBH I have only built mine once so cannot say any other way works better or worse but that is the advice I was given.

aaron125

iTrader: (16)

Have to say that's a very strange way to set the oil level in a diff. And being so far off the method all manufacturers and a vast majority of pro level racers use, I really have to question it's value. I've certainly never heard of anyone ever bleeding oil from their diff or being so concerned about air pockets. If the air was such a huge problem, or even a little problem, surely the manufacturers or at least some pros would mention it, but haven't ever heard it talked about before, and the pros are going to be the kind of driver who is able to feel when their diff goes off during a race, not slow coaches like you and I, so is there really any need for all that hassle and mess when the "fill to just above cross-pins/small gears" method is SO much faster and easier to do and seems to be working perfectly for everyone from beginners to WC levels drivers?

Just my 2c.

shinnbad12

iTrader: (1)

How full your diffs are is only important for your OWN records. You just need to be consistant with what you use as a full mark so when you make changes you will be able to feel the difference. The amount of fluid will make a differenc in how the diff feels.
I guess the only time knowing what someone else is doing is if you are trying to duplicate their setup My 2 cents.


Scott

John.C

iTrader: (37)

I personally do not fill my diff to the top. Also, I am more concerned about a good seal (o-rings/outdrive/gasket) vs. air bubbles although one can argue that air bubbles could be a byproduct of a bad seal or faulty build. With the higher viscosity diff oils, I think it's important to allow enough time for it to settle into the diff case before measuring the oil level. You should turn the outdrive a couple of times (make sure to hold down the top gear down snug against the crown gear with a small hex driver) and let it settle again. Repeat until you feel that the oil is completely settled in, you shouldn't see bubbles at this point. I'll also put a drop or two of oil on the gear side of the diff to ensure that the o-rings form a good seal with the outdrive.

I didn't see anything about sanding the diff case or doing anything special with the gaskets on the K car. I guess these don't require any special attention.

I was looking through the TKI2 manual and noticed that the center diff is larger than the front and rears.

So I guess (5)-(5)-(3) in Cody's setup is more like (5)-(5+)-(3)

PAGIE #536

iTrader: (3)

For me personally this is the best way, I have been doing it this way for years as it is more Consistant.

slow coach

agreed Aaron im not saying you should do the same its how I have been told to do mine and I trust the person dishing out the info he has been running Kyosho cars for a LOOOOONNNNNNNGGGGGG time, i guess this way you always have consistent filling of the diffs as the level will be the same each time you put the diff together as only the excess escapes leaving the same amount of oil each rebuild

305M3

iTrader: (43)

I think most tracks can argue that.

It's neat to see where people are from and how this hobby/sport/passion/addiction has a global following.

oghobavo

iTrader: (10)

Any guys running the fioroni pistons in the shocks? If so could you give me starting oil setup with lt blue springs all around? Got a set on the way that I am going to test out. Thanks

Vince O.

aaron125

iTrader: (16)

For anyone interested, I just received a few emails from KyoshoAmerica.com letting me know they have the new servo tray and also the new RX and battery boxes.

Just thought I'd let you all know.

Jammin57

iTrader: (120)

Well they need to hurry up and ship mine to me so I can put my buggy back together

pl_unc86

iTrader: (17)

I was told by my local hobby shop that all of my upgrade items shipped (3.5 HD shafts, towers, radio tray, battery box etc) Hopefully this is accurate and it was not a mistake and it's all on back order .

Hangit62

iTrader: (1)

Heres a Few pics Of my new ride!! And Happy To Own Kyosho Products, bar none they are the best !!!!

speed101

iTrader: (19)

does anyone have a set of ft and r light blue spring they want to sell

aaron125

iTrader: (16)

Where you located? I have a set of front light blue and know a shop you can get the rears from brand-new.

aaron125

iTrader: (16)

Doesn't it say in the instructions that come with the pistons or at the very least, there should be some kind of info on Fioroni's website?