mcion

iTrader: (32)

Have you confirmed this? Of course can convert it after spending almost 400 bucks in parts. What I would like to know is if the 2011 driveline and bulkheads are droppins on the 2010 chassis. Kyosho mod is just the center driveshafts, but still uses truggy bulkheads and pinions, which is about 100 bucks total.

Ultraspeed84

iTrader: (45)

Good luck i havent ever seen josh post up a setup.. wish he did like to know what he ran also

oggietiu

iTrader: (7)

regarding converting to the new drive line. i had mine done way before the 11 came out. i used old xb8 bulk head xt8 10 t pinion mp9 center front drive shaft or mugen mbx5 center front drive shaft. the mugen is little short but its fine with me cause i can rebuild it. the mp9 ones are throw aways. for the rear i used the d8 ones. if you have the 10 chassis the mp9 rears will do. you need some grinding though rear chassis brace and the radio box and the front bulk head cause the ackerman hits it. youll see. now since the new 11 bulkheads and pinion are out already just get those i know those will fit the older chassis just get the appropriate drive shaft. the 11 ones will not work it has difference in legnth. this will save you griding. i am not sure if the new rear brace will fit. if you use the old ones you need to grind some materials for the shaft joint to fit.

BuggyKing

iTrader: (17)

how do you guys get the shock boots to work. MIne do not stay on the shocks to well. DO you need a different shock end or something.

grizz1

With the shock boots you have to run the 09 or later shock ball ends (denoted by the groove at the end). These are designed to hold the ends of the shock boots in place when the spring retainer is clipped over both the ball end and the bottom of the boot.

What most guys do - and is now suggested in the 11 Spec, is to run this system on the rear, and on the front run the older style ball ends that were not designed to have the boot slip over them. With these you cut the section off the bottom of the shock boot and just let it rest on the ball end. These older ball ends are wider, so the spring retainers will fit tightly without the added rubber of the shock boot end to hold the retainers in place.

A lot of guys run this way because the front shocks tend to rip the rubber boots a lot. By not having the boots anchored under the collar of the spring retainer they are free to move more, and don't rip as easily.

Hope this answers your question

PatrikAx

Good to know.
Do you know if the center drive shafts from the XB8 would work to convert the 2010 to 2011? Perhaps the lengths are not matching?

hgarcia

I have a question, what does it mean when a setting sheet says regarding the rear arm, the standard option or short?

rc_pro

I have XRAY 808 2011
I want to switch to the new MUGEN MBX 6
What do you think

grizz1

Why the change ?

CJ Weaver

Well you are posting in the XRAY thread so I doubt you are going to get many unbiased opinions.

So here is my biased opinion, stay with XRAY!!

shesha

iTrader: (1)

Just got the 2011 and buildin it for femca www.3stonepark.com

Going through the thread seems like alot are still complaining about the shocks and rear end being twitchy.

I cannot stress to you guys how important it is for you to take the time to do the rebound process carefully.

Spend the time and make sure you get all the air bubbles out of the shocks before you start setting up your rebound.

I find that having rebound set at 25% on the rear and 30% on the front, really keeps the car glued, however do not forget to keep an eye on your kickup and anti squat if you find the car twitchy.

There is really no need for drilling the caps out using the foam compensators.

Just use the std o rings and put two on each shock shaft to prevent the shocks from bottoming out and use the ribbed bladder.

Also keep an eye on the 1 and 1.5 mm shock end adjustment in relation to your rebound you will be surprised at how much it changes during the racing heats if you are using the shock spring ends to hold the rubber boats.

I grease the ends to keep them loose or ca them.

When racing hour mains just increase ur rebound by an additional 5% to 10% at the most to keep shocks consistent throughout the race.

shesha

iTrader: (1)

Oh one more thing on the xray to really look at about havin a twitchy setup and a planted rear end check your ride height it makes a world of difference.

merdith6

iTrader: (3)

The original 808 08' model and the Mugen MBX-6 so I guess it's not completely fair, but that Mugen hasn't been updated every year either, and the only one axle for the rear center is longer for the longer chassis, that's it...

I love my x ray I would not get rid of it, but the Mugen works a little better on twisty tracks and rough tracks, but the Xray is easier to drive, it never spins out and is just a well designed buggy. I race both. When I race on clay where the chassis gets all beat up on thehard and smooth layout, indoor being a good example or just for practicing I use the xray, but during the outdoor race when it counts the Mugen is faster although a bit more reactive mainly from my lots of low speed steering setup, and on power too. The mugen has more on power steering too....

But the xray is the cadillac. It just cruises along and is easier to drive...

The mugen has zero wear in the drivetrain...The little cvd pins last forever, and the a arms never sag or break at least for me, the xray gets a bad case of the saggy front a arms, and the cvd pins wear faster, and the parts are more expensive too...although not many are needed, Ebay has tons of mugen parts, while xray is a bit more rare, and the different models mak it confusing as to what will fit....

I say keep the xray, you have the new version, and it will last forever, get extra cvd pins and extra servo saver plastic, and some extra front a arms...

And get the Mugen and add the extended chassis. It comes with the longer rear brace and it' only 85 bucks.....and you will love it.....

There is plenty of room for both cars on ur workbench....they are both the best cars made and have advantages in different areas.....and need vey few options to race....if any.....

I hope this helps....and if you don't want two cars keep the xray, you will regret selling it......

grizz1

Nice tip on the shock spring retainers moving up thanks shesha - I will keep an eye on that.

+1 on the ride height. A small adjustment makes a big difference to rear end stability on the 808. I find on a really fast track I like to run with the rear arms just below level, as opposed to my normal set up of level.
With the slightly lower ride height the rear end is super stable and will corner at crazy speeds on fast sweeping bends or chicanes without a hint of anything letting go.
I also run the rear camber link on the lowest hole on the shock tower in all my set ups. This really settles down the rear and gives great rear traction without effecting other handling - for me anyway

rfleck

iTrader: (58)

I actually came from the mugen,its a good car as well, but no thanks!