3LikesMugen MBX6
10-25-2011, 06:42 AM
Personally i have never found lighter diff oil in the rear to help with rear traction,,, keep in mind the mugen has a much smaller center diff cup than the MP9
for example i would typicly run 7 on loose conditions and 10 in med to high bite with the mugen and i run 4 in the MP9. and have just as much launch as 7 or 10 in the mugen.
What chassis are you running? the 5mm is loose in the rear and requires much less antisquat than the stock or the BCE X3 chasis, also a much lighter spring. If you want rear traction let me know what chassis you have and i will post a hooked up setup.
Scott
for example i would typicly run 7 on loose conditions and 10 in med to high bite with the mugen and i run 4 in the MP9. and have just as much launch as 7 or 10 in the mugen. What chassis are you running? the 5mm is loose in the rear and requires much less antisquat than the stock or the BCE X3 chasis, also a much lighter spring. If you want rear traction let me know what chassis you have and i will post a hooked up setup.
Scott
So i run the stock EU chassis (+5mm)
If i understand correctly, when on power, the rear goes from left to right, this can be an issue with the rear traction ? for me it's seems more the front that need traction.
Here you can find my setup.
Last question, on the setups from Ronda or Amezcua, they both run light diff.. so, why i should go up in the oil ?
I m not sure to understand how to setup the mugen right now.
And i m slower with the MBX6 than with my MP9 but i really want to came back at my level so i really need to find how to fix and have a planted car
10-25-2011, 08:00 AM
Tech Addict
My MBX6 is pretty stable in the rear
Last edited by Jesse; 10-25-2011 at 04:20 PM.
10-25-2011, 08:39 AM
Tech Apprentice
clunk tank (post 13815)
Joe,from your pictures I understand that you took off the black plastic part that is in the middle of the tank and cut off the part that is in the rear and looks like a barrier and the pipe that was holding the stone filter ? If thats the case,what tools did you use to cut them off? I can't think of one, that would fit and be used at that angle! I have ordered items HBS67426 and HBS67424 to use for modifying my tank
Thank you for your time and help.
Diamantis
Thank you for your time and help.
Diamantis
10-25-2011, 09:36 AM
Joe,from your pictures I understand that you took off the black plastic part that is in the middle of the tank and cut off the part that is in the rear and looks like a barrier and the pipe that was holding the stone filter ? If thats the case,what tools did you use to cut them off? I can't think of one, that would fit and be used at that angle! I have ordered items HBS67426 and HBS67424 to use for modifying my tank
Thank you for your time and help.
Diamantis
Thank you for your time and help.
Diamantis
10-25-2011, 11:39 AM
Joe Alessi
I would like to post up here thanking Joe for all the time he puts in on the forums. His how to's are second to none. The detail in the pictures makes each task he completes easy for everyone to accomplish on their own.
Joe, Thank you for all of your time you spend helping everyone on these forums!
Joe, Thank you for all of your time you spend helping everyone on these forums!
10-25-2011, 06:29 PM
Thanks Scott, i just found your answer now.
So i run the stock EU chassis (+5mm)
If i understand correctly, when on power, the rear goes from left to right, this can be an issue with the rear traction ? for me it's seems more the front that need traction.
Here you can find my setup.
Last question, on the setups from Ronda or Amezcua, they both run light diff.. so, why i should go up in the oil ?
I m not sure to understand how to setup the mugen right now.
And i m slower with the MBX6 than with my MP9 but i really want to came back at my level so i really need to find how to fix and have a planted car
So i run the stock EU chassis (+5mm)
If i understand correctly, when on power, the rear goes from left to right, this can be an issue with the rear traction ? for me it's seems more the front that need traction.
Here you can find my setup.
Last question, on the setups from Ronda or Amezcua, they both run light diff.. so, why i should go up in the oil ?
I m not sure to understand how to setup the mugen right now.
And i m slower with the MBX6 than with my MP9 but i really want to came back at my level so i really need to find how to fix and have a planted car
From my understanding, i am confident that if you do go up to 7K in the centre diff, and drop your rear shock oil weight, that will eliminate the loose rear end on power. Or, if you dont want to change oils, you could drop and shorten the rear camber link, this will slow down the twitchy rear end, but this will lower overall steering, which, depending on your track surface and layout, might be a good thing.
Ive been spending alot of time at the local track lately (College holidays), just trying to delve further into setups, and what different aspects do to the handing characteristics of the car. This is what ive found so far, with referrence to the rear camber link. Be mindful that this track is fairly open, medium traction, with a rocky/rough surface which grooves up nicely.
If i do change things, im always sure that before i do, i return the car to M-Spec setup before hand to eliminate any unwanted variables, and increase consistancy amongst results. I also stuck with one pattern of tire (AKA Crossbrace soft) Once there was measurable wear on the tread of the tire, i changed, to keep them consistant.
I used -3 degrees camber on the rear, and -2 on the front. (Measured with arms level.
I started with the rear link at the highest position on the rear tower, and the outer hole on the hub. With this configuration, the car had tons of off power steering, and was fairly aggressive when entering corners, and was a little loose in the rear end, which didnt suit me personally.
I then shortened the link and used the inside hole on the hub, leaving it on the top position on the tower. This drastically reduced the amount of off power steering i had, and lowered overall aggressiveness of the steering.
I dropped the camber link to its lowest position on the tower, and used the outer hole on the rear hub. Quite frankly, the car was a complete animal! Which for some parts of the track, was benefitial. I had fairly high amounts of on and off power steering, but i had lost a little rear end traction, especially through technical parts of the track.
I then shortened the link, and used the inside hole on the rear hub. This made the car less responsive on power, but didnt lose the amount of steering i had into the corner. For me, this was ideal as im not normally aggressive on the throttle, and try to stick to the ideal line as much as possible.
Then for something different, i changed to the 6H black piston all round. It seemed very unresposive, but i moved the shocks to the inside hole on the arms front and back, and with 7-7-3 in the diffs, shortend wheel base and an otherwise m-spec setup, the car was fantastic!
Just my findings!
Happy Racing
//Zach
Last edited by zachattak; 10-25-2011 at 07:58 PM.
10-26-2011, 06:04 AM
From my understanding, i am confident that if you do go up to 7K in the centre diff, and drop your rear shock oil weight, that will eliminate the loose rear end on power. Or, if you dont want to change oils, you could drop and shorten the rear camber link, this will slow down the twitchy rear end, but this will lower overall steering, which, depending on your track surface and layout, might be a good thing.
Ive been spending alot of time at the local track lately (College holidays), just trying to delve further into setups, and what different aspects do to the handing characteristics of the car. This is what ive found so far, with referrence to the rear camber link. Be mindful that this track is fairly open, medium traction, with a rocky/rough surface which grooves up nicely.
If i do change things, im always sure that before i do, i return the car to M-Spec setup before hand to eliminate any unwanted variables, and increase consistancy amongst results. I also stuck with one pattern of tire (AKA Crossbrace soft) Once there was measurable wear on the tread of the tire, i changed, to keep them consistant.
I used -3 degrees camber on the rear, and -2 on the front. (Measured with arms level.
I started with the rear link at the highest position on the rear tower, and the outer hole on the hub. With this configuration, the car had tons of off power steering, and was fairly aggressive when entering corners, and was a little loose in the rear end, which didnt suit me personally.
I then shortened the link and used the inside hole on the hub, leaving it on the top position on the tower. This drastically reduced the amount of off power steering i had, and lowered overall aggressiveness of the steering.
I dropped the camber link to its lowest position on the tower, and used the outer hole on the rear hub. Quite frankly, the car was a complete animal! Which for some parts of the track, was benefitial. I had fairly high amounts of on and off power steering, but i had lost a little rear end traction, especially through technical parts of the track.
I then shortened the link, and used the inside hole on the rear hub. This made the car less responsive on power, but didnt lose the amount of steering i had into the corner. For me, this was ideal as im not normally aggressive on the throttle, and try to stick to the ideal line as much as possible.
Then for something different, i changed to the 6H black piston all round. It seemed very unresposive, but i moved the shocks to the inside hole on the arms front and back, and with 7-7-3 in the diffs, shortend wheel base and an otherwise m-spec setup, the car was fantastic!
Just my findings!
Happy Racing
//Zach
Ive been spending alot of time at the local track lately (College holidays), just trying to delve further into setups, and what different aspects do to the handing characteristics of the car. This is what ive found so far, with referrence to the rear camber link. Be mindful that this track is fairly open, medium traction, with a rocky/rough surface which grooves up nicely.
If i do change things, im always sure that before i do, i return the car to M-Spec setup before hand to eliminate any unwanted variables, and increase consistancy amongst results. I also stuck with one pattern of tire (AKA Crossbrace soft) Once there was measurable wear on the tread of the tire, i changed, to keep them consistant.
I used -3 degrees camber on the rear, and -2 on the front. (Measured with arms level.
I started with the rear link at the highest position on the rear tower, and the outer hole on the hub. With this configuration, the car had tons of off power steering, and was fairly aggressive when entering corners, and was a little loose in the rear end, which didnt suit me personally.
I then shortened the link and used the inside hole on the hub, leaving it on the top position on the tower. This drastically reduced the amount of off power steering i had, and lowered overall aggressiveness of the steering.
I dropped the camber link to its lowest position on the tower, and used the outer hole on the rear hub. Quite frankly, the car was a complete animal! Which for some parts of the track, was benefitial. I had fairly high amounts of on and off power steering, but i had lost a little rear end traction, especially through technical parts of the track.
I then shortened the link, and used the inside hole on the rear hub. This made the car less responsive on power, but didnt lose the amount of steering i had into the corner. For me, this was ideal as im not normally aggressive on the throttle, and try to stick to the ideal line as much as possible.
Then for something different, i changed to the 6H black piston all round. It seemed very unresposive, but i moved the shocks to the inside hole on the arms front and back, and with 7-7-3 in the diffs, shortend wheel base and an otherwise m-spec setup, the car was fantastic!
Just my findings!
Happy Racing
//Zach
10-26-2011, 07:37 AM
I think i mentioned it somewhere in the thread. My standard setup is in the top hole so the hub sits the highest, but i did recently come back from a comp where the track was more concrete than dirt! I did drop the rear hub to minimise oversteer, and yes you are correct, i did lose a little steering, but it kept the rear end in shape even toward the end of the 1hr main.
10-26-2011, 12:21 PM
I'm looking to get some new receiver packs. Life or nimh is fine. Which brand model do u guys suggest? Must be available thru Amain. Thanks.
10-26-2011, 12:26 PM
10-26-2011, 03:43 PM
10-26-2011, 06:26 PM
Hey Joe do you have any problems running the transponder inside the battery box? I can't decide where to put the transponder now that I'm running the srn tray.
10-26-2011, 06:43 PM
10-26-2011, 07:11 PM
just dont lay it directly on top of the receiver... ive seen it miss laps before... ive ran it on top before with no issues, but ive seen others have it miss a lap here and there.
10-26-2011, 07:55 PM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
I've placed my transponder in the now empty battery box which is quite close to the engine, would that be a problem for the transponder?