Mugen MBX6
Tech Elite
iTrader: (267)
Don, based on the pictures I have seen from was running stock chassis, black springs and had the lipo towrds the front. I have been running a hump pack next to the steering servo on the mud guard for almost a month now and like the performance ohter than the fear of being hit hard by another buggy it is a little on the voulnerable side.
Thanks, I think if you go to the long chassis you can put the batt back in the box.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (267)
I am really hesiatant to do so I really like mine the way it is. For the next month I am racing pretty much every weekend and have little wrenching and practice time so when I have a week to play with it I may. Heard you guys were at TA over the past weekend would have been fun to be there but was at Hemet Competition Raceway for the Grassroots Series. PS I am the guy in the wheelchair you met at The Vegas RC a couple months back with the Kyosho 1/10 buggies.
Mugen E0147A or B
anyone running option front arm holder who may have some stock holders left over E0147A or B blocks
Last edited by slow coach; 05-11-2011 at 01:06 AM.
Tech Rookie
good job. thanx.
front and rear lower inboard arm spacers, anyone got an easy explanation for what moving the spacers does to the handling at each end, I know it alters wheelbase and weight distribution but how ?
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
(for me) The standard position for the front lower arms is in the middle and the rear arms I will adjust according to the track conditions.
Hope this helps,
Scott
The more you move the arms in(closer to the center of the car) the more traction you will get because of weight transfer. The more you move them away(from the center of the car) the less weight transfer meaning less traction.
(for me) The standard position for the front lower arms is in the middle and the rear arms I will adjust according to the track conditions.
Hope this helps,
Scott
(for me) The standard position for the front lower arms is in the middle and the rear arms I will adjust according to the track conditions.
Hope this helps,
Scott
Jason
I am really hesiatant to do so I really like mine the way it is. For the next month I am racing pretty much every weekend and have little wrenching and practice time so when I have a week to play with it I may. Heard you guys were at TA over the past weekend would have been fun to be there but was at Hemet Competition Raceway for the Grassroots Series. PS I am the guy in the wheelchair you met at The Vegas RC a couple months back with the Kyosho 1/10 buggies.
The more you move the arms in(closer to the center of the car) the more traction you will get because of weight transfer. The more you move them away(from the center of the car) the less weight transfer meaning less traction.
(for me) The standard position for the front lower arms is in the middle and the rear arms I will adjust according to the track conditions.
Hope this helps,
Scott
(for me) The standard position for the front lower arms is in the middle and the rear arms I will adjust according to the track conditions.
Hope this helps,
Scott
some of you asked for Traivis Amezcue Silver State setup awhile back, here it is.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (267)
I have noticed the setups I have seen with the new plus 5mm chassis the diff weights are substantially lower than what most people run on the older chassis. Since you guys run the BCE chassis which I think is plus 3mm from the old stock chassis are you guys somewhere in the middle? I really like 7/10/7 on my nitro car and ECO.
We are going to try and catch some of JBRL with gas prices it's getting tougher to travel, on the chassis we are actually running the 5mm BCE chassis and yes we run 5 7 3 in the diffs.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (267)
Have you noticed the front tires pulling the bead off the wheel after a long main? When I ran those weight diffs (standard chassis) I would diff out in the front. Don't tell Travis but last week when he was at TA I looked at some tires in the trash he threw away and could tell he was slightly diffing out in the front. I dont know what he was running and I'm not saying it's not good for the chassis I can't stand having to re-glue tires every run and don't get a new set every run like you factory Pro-Line guys I already have to wash them every run for my OCD