N#1

15k-15k-10k shocks layed over works very well on most if not all tracks plenty on off power steer easy to drive sounds funny but try it

shinnbad12

iTrader: (1)

+1 Untill ya try it dont count out this diff set up, if this pushes from mid to exit (on power) then lower the rear to 7 or 5.

Scott

johnny t

iTrader: (10)

Mugens (the buggy) are not good with light diff oil period. anything lower than 7k and you are asking for slower laptimes even if the car "feels" better. Between the mugens small diff gears and large amounts if suspension travel diff outs and roasted tires will happen with anything lighter.

I always say inside 7-10-7 and outside 10-10-7 or 15-15-7 or something similar. you might get away with 5k in the rear if things are smooth. 5k in the center is a disaster as the diff gets cooked and all your left with is front wheel drive after 10 minutes. I personally think even 7k is too light in the center for this aforementioned issue. 5k in the front and turn in will be way too aggressive with subsequent diff outs coming out of the corner. don't really be afraid of the heavier oils, because of the smaller gearsets, 7k in a mugen is like 5k in the other brand cars. if your mugen doesn't turn, lighter diff oil is just compensation for some bigger handling problem elsewhere. Reno Savoya played with 20k alot and it did not slow him down any.

sorry for my rant, I do get annoyed when diffs are looked at as chassis tuning tool when it really is a tire/power distribution one. just want people to have a successful time with their cars. diffs are a little more complicated than put "x"weight and your car handles better in terms of steering or whatnot. people instead really need to look at tire wear and that will tell you what to do diff wise.

John Sullivan

Ya....... what he said !

rpm1968

iTrader: (18)

I have been running Mugens since the Athlete.
I have always liked the thicker diff oils.
I currently run the overdrive rear gears & run 10/15/5.
The 6 seems to have a ton of turning built into it.
I've run it indoors on a packed grooved track & outdoors on a large loose track.
Car feels stable in both track conditions.

jsmax

iTrader: (54)

I run on an tight indoor track and run 5/10/3 and really like it. I tried it since stock in the ECO is 5/10/2 (but I went up to 3 in back of it as well) and really liked it in both cars.

jmaxey51

iTrader: (7)

i was going to run something in the lines of what you said but after talking to Barry Petit and others, 7-7-2 was the best. drove some that were running thick diffs and it was easy to drive but hard to drive fast. just my opinion though..

johnny t

iTrader: (10)

Sullivan always gots my back. Too bad it's not with a mugen . You need to give it another go dude, the new springs are the real deal.

merdith6

iTrader: (3)

I try to tell friends to try 10,000 in the center to improve power distribution on acceleration....If the center is too light then the front gets too much power and it causes weird stuff to happen. For example, torque steer......

I usually mix 5,000 with 7,000 for the front diff, and 4,000 in the rear diff...

I will try 7000 in the front. 10,000 in the center and 5,000 in the rear..and let you know how it works... thanks for the tip... It never hurts to try something different....

johnny t

iTrader: (10)

generally my rule of thumb is run as light a diff as you can get away with. so what your proposing is not totally out of line if you are smooth with the throttle and are racing on a smooth surface. I would say watch your front tires, if they are wearing down appreciatively more than the rears indicates your center is too light. suspension setup (like droop) influencing things as well. So someone that runs restricted droop might just get away with a lighter center. I am a max droop kinda of guy, so the heavier oils are often more required. I noticed no one really reads tires for setup feedback in RC, despite that being de rigueur on all other forms of motorsport. and IMHO the only way to really set diffs correctly.

I will advise that if coming out of bumpy corners your rear end likes to step out that 2k is whats causing it. subtle diff outs occurring as the wheels bounce cause a torque steer like situation happening with the rear end like meridith mentioned. but if your center is light enough that most all the power is going to the front anyway, then at that point no oil in the rear is best, or driveshafts for that matter.

I meant in my earlier post that there is no absolute diff setup, only that (with mugens) there is a floor in how low you can go. drop below 7k and be very conscious of any adverse effects.

jeez I feel punchy, the 2 month old was keeping me from my prep work on the cars. could not race today, looks like LH tomorrow. yo sullivan, you in? got the new mugen chassis on the car finally, curious what it can do.

am

How are you guys messuring droop?

I have messed araound alittle today with settings only on the table, but max droop is way more than i am used to...

So, please tell me how, and this messurement: when you lift your car up by the rear wing, how many mm do you have from your chassis to the table. Same for the front end. Thanks!

John Sullivan

Yep i ill be there

brian kadow

michaelfox

iTrader: (1)

from center shock nut to center screw on arm, usually run 107mm front and 124 mm rear. thats how we roll

michaelfox

iTrader: (1)

depending on the surface about 27mm front and 29 rear... but it "kommer ann på " the surface. rough or slick.