Mugen MBX6
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
This was a list that I posted on the Mugen forums back when the original kit was updated. Since then, Mugen has made a few other running changes but this will give you an idea of how much was changed from teh original to the updated kits back in 2009....
I wouldnt go out and buy the updated parts for the sake of it, tbh the kit is still capable as it is, the very same kit came 3rd at the worlds dont forget, the changes have just been to enhance an already good kit.
the changes to the front arms were done if the front ackerman hole was used to get better clearance on the arms, if you stick with stock then tbh its not much of a pain.
the front tower yes it can break if you hit it wrong so can the updated one i guess, the only part that was slightly weak was the front upper arm holder which is better in alu.
if the diffs dont have the grease ring then try and get one machined in, if not be prepared to strip them done regularly to re-grease them.
there are other updates the radio box lids got a bit higher which deffo helps but not essential as todays receivers are getting smaller not bigger , as nitroxray says just replace as they break you will probably be buying some spares anyway so cover your bases that way but dont swap them out for the sake of it they dont make the car any worse.
cheers
the changes to the front arms were done if the front ackerman hole was used to get better clearance on the arms, if you stick with stock then tbh its not much of a pain.
the front tower yes it can break if you hit it wrong so can the updated one i guess, the only part that was slightly weak was the front upper arm holder which is better in alu.
if the diffs dont have the grease ring then try and get one machined in, if not be prepared to strip them done regularly to re-grease them.
there are other updates the radio box lids got a bit higher which deffo helps but not essential as todays receivers are getting smaller not bigger , as nitroxray says just replace as they break you will probably be buying some spares anyway so cover your bases that way but dont swap them out for the sake of it they dont make the car any worse.
cheers
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
lower arms are really the only real improvement. they seem to warp less than the old ones. I would buy those. use your old ones as backups.
the upper arms are only a problem if you run lots of caster with the ackerman position all forward. I ran old uppers, even a mismatch with old on one side and new on the other for months without complaint. but I had a compatible setup.
grease grooves on the outdrives are a necessity IMHO. but you can make them easy by chucking the outdrive in a drill and grind a groove with a dremel as it spins. it does not have to look pretty, just has to be there.
ran the old front tower for a year of crashing till it started delaminating. replaced with the updated carbon and started a string of bad luck with towers snapping. I run the aluminum now.
If your desperate for updates get the M2c suspension mounts if anything. hopefully newer MBXs will go that route with fully captured pins.
the upper arms are only a problem if you run lots of caster with the ackerman position all forward. I ran old uppers, even a mismatch with old on one side and new on the other for months without complaint. but I had a compatible setup.
grease grooves on the outdrives are a necessity IMHO. but you can make them easy by chucking the outdrive in a drill and grind a groove with a dremel as it spins. it does not have to look pretty, just has to be there.
ran the old front tower for a year of crashing till it started delaminating. replaced with the updated carbon and started a string of bad luck with towers snapping. I run the aluminum now.
If your desperate for updates get the M2c suspension mounts if anything. hopefully newer MBXs will go that route with fully captured pins.
Tech Adept
ok so i put the new upper arms that mugen sent me and their were the answer to my steering problem but i my left wheel locks up when i turn to the left or right. could my steering rod be backwards?
Tech Elite
iTrader: (47)
guys i have a m-spec for sale if anyone is interested
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...brand-new.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...brand-new.html
Yes my set up will work with the stock chassis, the x2 is only 1.3 mm longer than the stock.
As Johnny T stated the rear diff alone could give you what you are looking for. M-spec is 5,7,2, i believe and if you went to 5,7,5 you would have more rear traction off the corner and better rotation from entrance to mid. Let us know what you try and what works for you, Good luck.
Scott
As Johnny T stated the rear diff alone could give you what you are looking for. M-spec is 5,7,2, i believe and if you went to 5,7,5 you would have more rear traction off the corner and better rotation from entrance to mid. Let us know what you try and what works for you, Good luck.
Scott
have read many feedbacks on the new springs but not much mentioned on which spring is used.
am guessing it is
Soft 1.5/8.25T in FRONT &
Medium 1.5/8.50T in REAR?
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
8.0 front, 8.5 rear is what most run. i run 7.75 front, 8.0 rear... everyone is different though. btw, smaller the number, the stiffer they are....
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Scott - are you using the new springs - in the front or rear? Did you change the setup you posted when using those springs?
have read many feedbacks on the new springs but not much mentioned on which spring is used.
am guessing it is
Soft 1.5/8.25T in FRONT &
Medium 1.5/8.50T in REAR?
have read many feedbacks on the new springs but not much mentioned on which spring is used.
am guessing it is
Soft 1.5/8.25T in FRONT &
Medium 1.5/8.50T in REAR?
Scott
The Mugen cars are doing very well at the euros! Go Reckward!
Tech Elite
iTrader: (47)
And who would be left holdng the bag? You can't expect the shop to offer him new parts for a running change.
Tech Adept
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)