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Old 04-22-2010, 07:15 AM
  #7021  
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Don't sweat it, better to ask then to have a bad experience.

Tip: You can easily make a gasket for the bottom of the gear cases out of paper gasket material or anything like that. It goes a long way towards keeping dust out of your transmission cases, works better than a bead of grease.
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Old 04-22-2010, 03:39 PM
  #7022  
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Well i just made the switch from the RC8B to the MBX6. Does anyone know if the RC8 clutch shoes fit/work on the stock mbx6 flywheel? I like the way the AE clutch springs dont run down the center of the shoe, ive got an AE clutch nut, shoes, and springs and was planning on using them on my new mbx6, when it comes in the mail tomorrow. Anyone?
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Old 04-22-2010, 03:51 PM
  #7023  
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If you had to choose one single upgrade for your mbx6 what would it be. I already have extended motor, m2c extended chassis brace ( i don't use it) aluminum front arm bracket and shock tower.

I am torn between m2c toe block system or a bce chassis.
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Old 04-22-2010, 06:13 PM
  #7024  
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Originally Posted by dreaux
If you had to choose one single upgrade for your mbx6 what would it be. I already have extended motor, m2c extended chassis brace ( i don't use it) aluminum front arm bracket and shock tower.

I am torn between m2c toe block system or a bce chassis.
Bce chassis hands down.
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Old 04-22-2010, 06:18 PM
  #7025  
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Originally Posted by dishsoap
Bro I am new to mugen but what I have been told is to change the rear upper arms on the back shock tower to the lower position. The mspec set up has them in the middle. More than two people have told me to put them in the bottom position.

They said that it will make the car even more stable and even easier to drive.
Dishsoap, that is correct info. I can usually get my car to handle well on most tracks by using the middle hole on the shock tower. When things start getting really rough or loose I go to the lower hole on the tower and all is good again.
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Old 04-22-2010, 06:26 PM
  #7026  
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Originally Posted by jpz_67
Bce chassis hands down.
will my car still flex enough to jump well with the king headz motor mount?

How well does the chassis jump and how much flex does it have?
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Old 04-22-2010, 06:31 PM
  #7027  
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Originally Posted by dreaux
will my car still flex enough to jump well with the king headz motor mount?

How well does the chassis jump and how much flex does it have?
Me personally I would ditch the motor mount. One of the things I felt that I noticed immediately with the BCE chassis is the car jumps better and recovers from landings better. The chassis is still plenty flexible, not so stiff that the car feels like a board.
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Old 04-22-2010, 06:37 PM
  #7028  
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Originally Posted by jpz_67
Me personally I would ditch the motor mount. One of the things I felt that I noticed immediately with the BCE chassis is the car jumps better and recovers from landings better. The chassis is still plenty flexible, not so stiff that the car feels like a board.

so you think it might be too stiff with the extended motor mount? I have extra top blocks on all my engines. They drop right in.

I guess i could saw the extension off

actually i don't see how it would hurt. It's just a little extra by the flywheel hole.

Do you have the m2c toeblock system?
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Old 04-22-2010, 07:02 PM
  #7029  
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Originally Posted by dreaux
so you think it might be too stiff with the extended motor mount? I have extra top blocks on all my engines. They drop right in.

I guess i could saw the extension off

actually i don't see how it would hurt. It's just a little extra by the flywheel hole.

Do you have the m2c toeblock system?
I have not used the extended motor mount but I dont like making my car any stiffer than what it already is. I feel that the motor mount may be a bit much and I like a flexible car.

I have not tried the m2c toeblock system either. If memory serves me correct you can tune the rear toe in 1/4 increments and I very rarely mess with the toe or antisqaut. I almost always run 3 degrees rear toe and 2 degrees antisqaut. I could be missing out on something but I just hardly change these settings. I really did not think I would notice a difference with the BCE chassis but I was amazed.
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Old 04-24-2010, 08:56 PM
  #7030  
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Hey guys, just got my m-spec in the mail on friday and im getting ready to hit the track but first ive got a couple of questions. What ride height are people running? What changes (if any) should i make to the m-spec setup? Ive heard people say to move the rear camber link to the lower hole on the tower. And what option parts are the best bang for the buck? Ive already installed the king headz front shock tower and motor mount. Any help would be great, thanks.
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Old 04-24-2010, 09:05 PM
  #7031  
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Originally Posted by plus2ss
Hey guys, just got my m-spec in the mail on friday and im getting ready to hit the track but first ive got a couple of questions. What ride height are people running? What changes (if any) should i make to the m-spec setup? Ive heard people say to move the rear camber link to the lower hole on the tower. And what option parts are the best bang for the buck? Ive already installed the king headz front shock tower and motor mount. Any help would be great, thanks.
I am not very knowledgeable in the offroad department but what I would tell you at this point in your owning this buggy, run it as is for the first time and get a feel for the buggy with the Mspec settings. This way when you go home after running it you will have an idea how it works and know what you are after when it comes to finding adjustments.

My .02

Sean
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Old 04-24-2010, 11:12 PM
  #7032  
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Dishsoap, alot of people are having problems with the jump attitude in those sections. It's not just this car. Alot of the lips are really blown out from the rain and NC. If you watch the fast guys they will show you where the good part of the lip is. Also, yes I am switching to Mugen in truck too. Just makes since if I'm gonna switch in buggy. The Losi truck has been great though.
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Old 04-24-2010, 11:13 PM
  #7033  
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Anybody running or tried the M2C 4 shoe clutch. What shoes and springs do you run? How do you like it?
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Old 04-24-2010, 11:50 PM
  #7034  
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Originally Posted by dreaux
so you think it might be too stiff with the extended motor mount? I have extra top blocks on all my engines. They drop right in.

I guess i could saw the extension off

actually i don't see how it would hurt. It's just a little extra by the flywheel hole.

Do you have the m2c toeblock system?
Originally Posted by jpz_67
I have not used the extended motor mount but I dont like making my car any stiffer than what it already is. I feel that the motor mount may be a bit much and I like a flexible car.

I have not tried the m2c toeblock system either. If memory serves me correct you can tune the rear toe in 1/4 increments and I very rarely mess with the toe or antisqaut. I almost always run 3 degrees rear toe and 2 degrees antisqaut. I could be missing out on something but I just hardly change these settings. I really did not think I would notice a difference with the BCE chassis but I was amazed.
I think the extended motor mount stiffens the chassis exactly where it should be stiffer. I don't think you want the chassis flexing right at the point the clutchbell and spur mesh. That causes extra wear on the gears and clutch bearings.

I don't know if Mugen purposely designed the car to flex in that spot, so I can't comment on if it changes the handling. I've been running the extended motor brace since day one. Unless you can run a perfect race with no crashes, I don't think the difference in handling will matter anyways.

For me, I think the advantage is more to do with maintenance and reliability. I can tell you that I don't have to change my TKO clutch bearings out that often. Maybe once a month just to be safe. They seem fine even when I change them out and I race maybe 6 times a month. I think that extended brace has something to do with that.

On the BCE chassis I can't comment because I've never run one. I've run Fioroni which is suppose to be stiffer also, but its hard to do an A/B comparision because my chassis was worn when I swapped. Was it better? Yes night and day. Was it better because my chassis old chassis was shaped like a banana? That probably had a lot to do with it. With the ends warped upward, your 3 degrees antisquat is now 1 degree and the front kick up has a few extra degrees. What would that do to handling?

JPZ, did you do this comparison with a new stock chassis? I wonder if people who switch to the aftermarket chassis are comparing the new one to an old worn out warped stock chassis. Has anyone done an A/B comparision with a new stock chassis and new aftermarket chassis?

The aftermarkets however DO last longer and seem to bent less, which is a good thing.
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Old 04-25-2010, 05:46 AM
  #7035  
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OK I have posted the same question in the MBX6T thread but to be sure I hear it from both sides I wanted to post it here also.

Hi guy's I have a question in regards to going Buggy or Truggy? I already know that hands down I will be going with the Mugen offering as I have been racing with my MTX4R for years now and will never use another brand. I am going to be new to the offraod racing action and really have no clue as to what would have me wanting to do one over the other?

Thanks for your help guy's.

Sean
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