tony montana

iTrader: (76)

do you have a shim behind the collet? 7 shims is alot but if it works it works. Just make sure the bell is lined up with the spur correctly

dishsoap

iTrader: (8)

Yes it came with two of those thick shims but the book shows to use one. So I did use one shim behind the collect.

I thought it was a lot as well but if I dont do it the bell has too much play.

dishsoap

iTrader: (8)

So here is the deal. I had to take the shim behind the collet off. I noticed that there was too big of a gap in between the fly wheel and the engine bearing. The fly wheel spins freely without the shim.

I have the flywheel mounted to a trinity extech. The shaft is fairly long. By not using the shim behind the collet it threw my clutch bell to spur gear off.

I had to use two shims in front of the clutch nut so that I could get a proper fit on the clutch bell to the spur gear.

This has created a gap in between the clutch bell and the flywheel. Please see the pic and let me know if this gap is ok.

It was either the gap in front of the front engine bearing or the gap on the clutch bell to the flywheel.

akiyama77

iTrader: (13)

what flywheel are you using? when we got a ninja and mugen flywheel, it came with a steel collet not the normal brass one, and at first we used the brass one and had alot of shims and offset like yours, we then re did it with the steel one, it fit alot better

dishsoap

iTrader: (8)

Its the mugen flywheel that came with the kit. Is the gap on the clutch bell to the fly wheel ok????

Here is exact gap I had in between the fly wheel on the front engine bearing before I took the shim off that goes before the collet. This is not my pic but it looked the same. I got this pic off a site that showed how to properly install a clutch.

JUD

iTrader: (4)

The gap is OK!! As long as the clutchbell lines up nicely with the spur. I use the ofna flywheel, and I prefer it over the mugen setup. I actually have about 3 brand new mugen flywheels for sale if somebody wants them!

dishsoap

iTrader: (8)

Having a tough time with the throttle and break linkage.

By the way the dynamite linkage does not fit. The ball ends on the breaks gets in the way of the top diff brace not allowing the break shafts to move back and forth.

I spent hours tonight trying to get the linkage down with no luck. The problem I am having is that when I press the throttle the bars are moving the break links too much causing the breaks to engage on throttle.

Off throttle it frees up and when the break is depressed its fine. Its only when I press the throttle down the breaks will engage slightly causing drag.

How do I fix this?

Dal

iTrader: (4)

just bend the steel rods, up on top and down on the bottom. only a little bit.

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

Yeah, your flywheel/bell is fine. The bell is not meant to reach any farther, as long as no part of the clutch shoe is exposed you're good to go. Also make sure the bell floats about .5mm on the shaft so things still fit right when the car is hot and flexing.

shinnbad12

iTrader: (1)

I have resisted trying the mbx6 for a year, I finally made the switch and I can honestly say I am very pleased. It turns, jumps, accelerates, and corners very well. ( thanks AL )

Scott

dishsoap

iTrader: (8)

Here are some pics of my linkage.

the left one is off throttle and the right one is on throttle. Can you see any problems. I have never had a problem with on throttle until now.

shinnbad12

iTrader: (1)

From the pics. it looks like the linkage is dragging on the brake rods. The linkage should slide through the loops or holes freely when you apply the throttle. Make sore the loop of your brake rod is straight up and down. It looks like the top one is tilted, this could be your prob.
Hope this helps.


Scott

John Sullivan

It also looks like you could flip the plastic part that mounts to the servo arm it would make a straighter shot and less bind

MadRussian

iTrader: (3)

Remove the alum stopper on the throttle linkage, its making the spring bind.

imaxx21

iTrader: (1)