Mugen MBX6
#5521
difference between updated kit and the 1st generation mbx6
front and rear lower A-arms plastic was re-shaped and molded a little different, outdrives are lightened and have a grease ring in them i dont think there is really anything else that isnt just cosmetic.
If anyone is interested i have a MBX-6 that i am trying to sell. it is the original version but it does have the updated arms and the lightened outdrives throughout the entire car. comes with some spares as well. asking $300 shipped for the roller, spares, and a set of tires. pm me if interested
If anyone is interested i have a MBX-6 that i am trying to sell. it is the original version but it does have the updated arms and the lightened outdrives throughout the entire car. comes with some spares as well. asking $300 shipped for the roller, spares, and a set of tires. pm me if interested
do u want to sell the lightend out drives?
#5522
sorry cant sell just those that will take away from the fact that this is an original version with the updated parts plus i dont have the original ones anymore. i would like to sell the entire car. make me offers
#5523
nooo, your selling the outdrives and the car comes with them.lol
#5525
Tech Master
#5527
#5528
I think the full droop is the problem. Limit is some and the rut rolling will be greatly improved. Don't worry too much about straight line stability, once a bump gets beyond a certiain size/speed, a good setup "bounces straight" more than it actually absorbs the bump. You may find the car can be driven more aggressively in turns with less droop too because of less severe weight transfer front to rear.
#5530
Tech Rookie
Ive just finished building my MBX6! Its my first build so I think I'll be taking it to the local track for some of the boys to make sure the settings are correct... to me it all looks fine but after reading this thread I highly doubt I've set it correctly?! As its my first pro kit, first build ever, the set up sheet didnt mean too much to me! Running O.S V SPECS in it, I hope this car lives up to the hype!!
#5531
full droop = slow corners. two of the fastest cars out right now dont run anything close to the droop that we can run. take a look at the losi 8 or any 1/10 off road electric car, not much droop. if your track has asteroid damage then yea maybe but most of your speed is in cornering. just like in motorcross if the back end is too stiff it will glance off of bumps and kick out or up and over the bars.lol
Savoya always runs full droop or near to it wherever he races and some of the european tracks are flat out fast, as for the rear if the track is badly rutted or bumpy a too soft rear will allow the chassis to bottom and this will equally send the rear skywards it has to be a happy medium, i have ben running 400 f/r kit pistons and i had the rear hopping on the bumps with 10.75 rear springs im goind to try 450 next run in the rear with Ass 40 front, will let you know how that goes.
#5532
Tech Apprentice
That's right Renaud has full droop, but also a very strong rear anti-roll bar which prevents too much roll et possibly too much droop.
#5533
I had a traction roll problem this pass weekend.The track was rutted up and I had trouble in sweeping corners rolling over..I was running a 2.3mm front sway bar a 2.7mm rear sway bar,400wt front and rear shock oil with six hole pistons with xxsoft springs..the car did everything well just had trouble in sweeping corners.I ran full droop first qualifier,then limited it to 108/128,seemed to work a little better..I ended up lowering the car a hair below level and worked much better, any pointers would be appreciated..this was the first layout that ever gave me this much trouble..