ezveedub

iTrader: (17)

One thing to keep in mind, City Blocks work good until the top peg wears down. Once that's down to the second larger peg, it will loose a lot of grip on a dusty hard packed track. The Proline Caliber M3 is another tire to try. Keep in mind, the Caliber can be positioned for forward bite or side bite, depending on how you installed the directional tread. Hole Shots M3 is always good too.

sjenkins97

iTrader: (7)

I just ran 7-7-4 this weekend and loved it. Track was blown out and loose but car was super stable, all the steering i could ask for and could push it when needed. I highly recommend trying that diff set up

arm2storm

iTrader: (25)

Well my MBX6 is hooked up it's on rails but the sad part is I can't remember what diff fluids I'm running. Where ever I point the wheels it goes..on power or off power it takes the turns smooth and drifts very controlled. It pulls out of the corners like a caged animal with out loosing rear traction...I love it but I can't remember My fluids....pretty sad!!!

I haven't worked on it for a while so I'm afraid to take it apart or even clean it. lol


Tip: Just one thing I noticed from the mbx6 is if your steering posts or pivot ball suspension is tight and binds... it makes the car very twitchy. I noticed that the left steering post hits the upper steering plate...so if you put a shim between the the bearing inside the post and the upper steering plate it makes the steering very smooth and makes the car controllable around corners.

I found this out when replacing a steering servo and found that my steering was binding?

Hope this helps someone?

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Yep, we all agree that any binding in the suspension/steering will ruin any car's handling characteristics

regarding your diff fluids, if they've been in there long enough for you not to remember what viscosity they are, well, they're long delaminated anyway, which means you're probably running sthing close to 1/1/1

For you guys looking for a good, all around base setup, go on the mugenseiki site and download Kenji Osaka Femca setup... that's where I got back to everytime I got "lost" in setups this year, it's very polyvalent.

The MBX6M setup sheet is supposed to be an "easy" setup (as this is an ARTR sale hence shouldn't put the undiscerning rc'er too far off balance ) even though it has a somewhat thick center diff.

And honestly, the V2 box setup works too despite what people say... most of the time when a car feels "ill" it isn't behind a setup mistake, but rather a maintenance/preparation issue.

All in all, get your car prepared properly, with nothing broken/binding/asymetric, pick up the right tires for your track, get the brake adjusted right (bias and strength) and if the car isn't assembled fundamentally wrong you're already 95% there - just go drive the balls off of it! Modern cars have much wider sweetspots than those done 10yrs ago, and are pretty tolerant to "approximative" setups.

Paul

muaythai

iTrader: (1)

can u send some pictures mate?

arm2storm

iTrader: (25)

Sure, just give me a chance to take some pics.

W.E.D.Jim

iTrader: (17)

I don't think I posted these MBX6 paint pics here yet...






...Jim
W.E.D.

arm2storm

iTrader: (25)

Yes we all know that binding will ruin any car's handling characteristics. But do you where to look?

And no, my diff fluids are not 1-1-1 unless diff oil has an expiration date on them. It's only been ran 2 times in 5 months.

allan42r

very nice jim as always! what do you charge?

12a_rx2

iTrader: (6)

so if i order the patriot kit from your site does it come with the eagles head or no eagles head like yours?

btw: id rather no eagle

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

My bad on the diffs - of course if you don't run them, they barely wear out (remember to put your car on stands, though )

check for binding? easy and to be regularly done. Unhook shocks, rollbars, servo linkages, and see if everything moves "by its own weight", ie hold the car upside down, slowly start rotating (pitch) it till it's vertical, a few degrees after verticality, your suspension components should fall by themselves, smoothly, at the same time. If it isn't the case check for hinge pins and PBS too tight. For the steering, just move it by hand from the servo linkage and check for full throw, both with the car the right way and upside down. Rehook rollbars, put the cars on stands, start lifting left wheel, see how high you can lift it till the right one starts moving, then do it from the other side, both should yield similar results, otherwise check for bind/play.

Hope this helps - Can't help much with the diff fluids tho

Paul

gameholic2

Anyone running a different brake set up on the 6?
I'm about to change my stock pads, they work well but I've had better, they seem to fade a bit during long races 20+ minutes plus they cost 30+ $.
I used to run Racers edge fiber discs on my X5 and never had a hint of fade, unfortunately can't find them anywhere in stock...
Right now i'm looking at getting some carbon brake discs from Extreme racing but i've never tried these I would like to get some feed back what's the wear like?
how do they feel?
how do they handle the occasional fuel bath lol
I'm leanning towards the carbon but Ferodo is still an option as well.

Thanks for you time!

windellmc

iTrader: (4)

You will need calipers from the 5R unless your stock brake pads are worn down to metal. I would use the Avids or the TTR option discs (probably the same as the RC8).

Sprinkler

iTrader: (28)

On my MBX6 and 6T, I run the Xtreme racing fiber disc brakes with the 5r pads and I love em. No fade, plus they are much lighter then the stock ones.

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

Gameholic, try the TTR brake discs, same as on the AE RC8, they're a fiber type disc so you'll need bare pad plates with them. They've been a popular upgrade since the old MBX5, cheap too.