KThatcher

iTrader: (64)

No problem. Did you try out the truggy setup?

o.s. power

iTrader: (14)

raced yesterday and switched back and forth between the truggy tower and stock tower. needless to say i feel the truggy tower is useless. i gained 1 lap in qualifying with the buggy tower over the truggy tower. car rotated in the corners better and honestly didnt feel a difference in the way the car jumped. maybe if you raced on the moon or moon like surfaces the truggy tower could be a viable option?

jmaxey51

iTrader: (7)

it all depends on the driver and their setup other than just tower. i really like the truggy tower but i do switch back and forth a lot depending on track and conditions throughout the day. with the M2C tower it is a easy switch and also have the "lower buggy holes" too, it limits up travel and chassis roll making it more stable IMO. i move all around on that tower, great tuning tool that makes changes very easy and quick.

sjenkins97

iTrader: (7)

+1 on truggy tower. it seems to work really well with the kyosho springs and settled down the rear end a bit while still keeping the rotation in the corners i prefer.

Ostach24

iTrader: (104)

do any of you guys know if the bitty body for the 6r us version will fit the eco and give clearance for the batteries?
I know this is the nitro thread, but I was hoping some of you guys have the eco too. thanks ahead of time.

Semple

iTrader: (3)

I think it would fit but why would you want to? The Bitty Design body is pretty weak.

romax

iTrader: (1)

Have not tried with 4s but with 2, 2s it will not fit. A guy at the last race i was at was running one of those FTW bodies, it looked nice to.

rcindia

iTrader: (9)

I noticed my steering is way less smoother than what it used to be when new. I suspect the infamous pivot balls. Can it be lubed? Will graphite grease work? Any other maintainance required?

I am rebuilding for the FEMCA race in Thailand and this is bothering. Looks like the servo will have to work hard.

merdith6

iTrader: (3)

The steering belcrank may need to be cleaned really well and have new bearings installed, also the top plate gets worn and rubs on the bearings funny after a while, but yes the pivot balls can be cleaned and lubed using teflon spray lube that dries. It works great, and make sure to check the retainers and they may be a little tight. Make sure the steering rod ends are clan too and put some teflon spray on them too. also check the servo. You may need to grease the gears in the servo, or clean them too. Or the gears may be worn. Or the motor is going out in the servo. what i am saying if everything is clean and set right the pivot balls are rarely binding. It may besomething else.

Ross71

Was he using 2x2s on the Echo do you know.

Ross

romax

iTrader: (1)

I will text him and ask. Will let you know when i hear back. It may take him a day or 2 to answer me.

Ross71

Ok, no rush as I've got a proline shell being done, but I do like the FTW

Thanks

Ross

romax

iTrader: (1)

My friend said the ftw body works with both 4s and 2x2s batteries in his eco.

Keith Lewis

iTrader: (16)

As merdith stated, it sounds like the pivot ball retainers are too tight and need to be loosened. There should be a little play when you pull on the pivot ball hubs away from the ball end. I would start there before adding any lube. I have never needed to anything to mine and been runnning the same pivot balls almost 2 years.

WillF

i have tried, but it was too low and hung up n the batterys.
Bring on a eco-R body...