Originally Posted by DLF

Yes, the setup sheet tells you what toe and anti-squat to run. The instructions then attempt to tell you what inserts and what orientation to install them to give you different settings. The problem is that the instructions don't tell you which letter to use for each setting.

Originally Posted by JoeGuam

You just have to match up the recess cuts. Turn the inserts either upright or inverted depending where you want the recess to be located for a particular setting.

Originally Posted by tripple

Ok so I'm going try buggy this year and am looking at the 6r. I have raced the 6t and with a little work it was awesome. How dose the buggy drive compared to the truggy
Now with the r being 5mm longer then the 6 and people saying there having a hard time keeping the rear end under the car would
It better to just get the 6 and put the bce chassis on it. I no the r is lighter but the gearing is way of and people are putting a bigger spur gear on the $ 600 roller to make its gear ratio more user friendly. So is it quicker out of the corners over the 6 even thow you have to change the gear ratio.can you drive it hard or will it wash out because of the longer chassis. I mugen and think this will be the way I go but with r or 6
Is it quicker?gear ratio is off
Is it harder to drive on power?longer chassis
Is the r better out of the ?
Lighter drive train to make it quicker but the gear ratio is wrong?so is it quicker
Longer chassis to make it more stable? But likes to loop out?so is it more stable
More steering because of the new radio tray? But some say the shocks are to soft?
Don't get me wrong I love mugen but would like to no from people that have run both what dose the r have over the 6 out of the box on the track
Thanks

Originally Posted by juninho_foz

Originally Posted by tripple

Ok so I'm going try buggy this year and am looking at the 6r. I have raced the 6t and with a little work it was awesome. How dose the buggy drive compared to the truggy
Now with the r being 5mm longer then the 6 and people saying there having a hard time keeping the rear end under the car would
It better to just get the 6 and put the bce chassis on it. I no the r is lighter but the gearing is way of and people are putting a bigger spur gear on the $ 600 roller to make its gear ratio more user friendly. So is it quicker out of the corners over the 6 even thow you have to change the gear ratio.can you drive it hard or will it wash out because of the longer chassis. I mugen and think this will be the way I go but with r or 6
Is it quicker?gear ratio is off
Is it harder to drive on power?longer chassis
Is the r better out of the ?
Lighter drive train to make it quicker but the gear ratio is wrong?so is it quicker
Longer chassis to make it more stable? But likes to loop out?so is it more stable
More steering because of the new radio tray? But some say the shocks are to soft?
Don't get me wrong I love mugen but would like to no from people that have run both what dose the r have over the 6 out of the box on the track
Thanks

Originally Posted by tripple

Dose r come with tires? And we're is the best price for one of these
Thanks and what would I need in
Parts there are mugen parts to be had around here lhs or tracks I race at do not have parts. I raced the mbx6t last year and that truggy was awesome
MBX6R looks to be my buggy for the up coming season
With maybe a fusion 7? This will be my first year racing buggy I ran a Hb d8 for the first time at mid west nitro race in ohio and said no more truggy time to rock a buggy
Jamie

Originally Posted by Sideshow Bob

guys, does anyone here run a "dead" shock setup...ie 0% rebound..like in when you build them you press them all the way in...and cap them. i was wondering if rebound might be less of an issue with the new progressive springs? also, we asked our local mugen 'alien' over here and he says he runs his shocks dead....and that made me wonder since i always thought that 50% or whatever is a good compromise? thanks in advance