3LikesMugen MBX6
06-26-2012, 10:39 AM
hi guys,
i'm currently running a dnx408...but i m already wondering a new car for the next season (after summer)..
and the choice seems to be between the cobra and the mbx6r eu..
that's why i would like to ask how do you guys do with yours mbx6r so far?
any pros and cons??
and a final question: it a while that i hear people complaining about mugen plastic fragility at my local track...is that true?
seems strange to me..even because i drove a mbx6-eco last year and severely crashed it more than once..and nothing happened..
i'm currently running a dnx408...but i m already wondering a new car for the next season (after summer)..
and the choice seems to be between the cobra and the mbx6r eu..
that's why i would like to ask how do you guys do with yours mbx6r so far?
any pros and cons??
and a final question: it a while that i hear people complaining about mugen plastic fragility at my local track...is that true?
seems strange to me..even because i drove a mbx6-eco last year and severely crashed it more than once..and nothing happened..
Did you see the Durango guys at nats? They were running Kyosho shocks, radio box, sway-bars, etc..... It is not even a Durango to get them to be decent....
06-26-2012, 11:01 AM
I came from the DNX408 and going to Mugen was the best thing I have ever done. I was always missing heats, practice because of stupid things breaking on the DNX408. Driveline pins and screws would be shot after 2 race weekends. The part quality is 100x better and the buggy is much better overall feeling buggy. I was 1.5 sec. per lap faster the very first time I set it on hte track. As far as plastics go, I am still running the original a-arms on my buggy and it is 6 months old..... By far the most durable buggy I have seen out there.
Did you see the Durango guys at nats? They were running Kyosho shocks, radio box, sway-bars, etc..... It is not even a Durango to get them to be decent....
Did you see the Durango guys at nats? They were running Kyosho shocks, radio box, sway-bars, etc..... It is not even a Durango to get them to be decent....
hi mjealey,
thanks for your answer..
to be honest..until now i love my dnx..and probably because it looks different from other buggies..or because it has some solution i like..
furthermore i've been running it for 10lt and it really looks new in box..nothing broken or damaged, the quality of the anodization is impressive my chassis looks new and the plastics perfect..but..
there is a but..i feel like i miss something..i have i couple of issues..
i mean..it is perfect looking from outside..but not so perfect if you look closely to the inside..all the 3 differential have constant leaking problem..you are suppose to fix that using losi o-ring (i was told)
than there is the dog bone..more than once the pin of the rear dogbone went out..nothing terrible..but it is crucial if you are in a race..
shocks are not easy to set..and they ruined the bladders very quickly
and lastly there is the setup..it is not easy at all..
i managed to find a good set up..but it took a while and it way different from box..
so that's why i already expect other buggies, especially mugen, to be more easy, straight out of the box..
do you confirm this idea?!
thanks
06-26-2012, 11:03 AM
I came from the DNX408 and going to Mugen was the best thing I have ever done. I was always missing heats, practice because of stupid things breaking on the DNX408. Driveline pins and screws would be shot after 2 race weekends. The part quality is 100x better and the buggy is much better overall feeling buggy. I was 1.5 sec. per lap faster the very first time I set it on hte track. As far as plastics go, I am still running the original a-arms on my buggy and it is 6 months old..... By far the most durable buggy I have seen out there.
Did you see the Durango guys at nats? They were running Kyosho shocks, radio box, sway-bars, etc..... It is not even a Durango to get them to be decent....
Did you see the Durango guys at nats? They were running Kyosho shocks, radio box, sway-bars, etc..... It is not even a Durango to get them to be decent....
06-26-2012, 11:45 AM
06-26-2012, 02:16 PM
I am very close to the box stock settings, except with these changes off the top of my head. I run 8.00/f and 8.50/r for springs. M2C rear in it and at 1/2.75. I have the BCE X3 chassis on it. 26/29 righe height. 7/7/3 in the diffs. I run the front upper arm all the way forward. The buggy has a ton of turning everywhere and is really planted in the track!!!!! By far the best buggy I have had!!!!
06-26-2012, 03:33 PM
and i also have one more question:
looking at the 6-r radio tray, what do you put inside the long box close to the motor?
i mean if you put the battery in the front, what's in there?
the other box is for receiver, but the "long" one??
thanks
looking at the 6-r radio tray, what do you put inside the long box close to the motor?
i mean if you put the battery in the front, what's in there?
the other box is for receiver, but the "long" one??
thanks
06-26-2012, 03:36 PM
You could make a nice countersunk KO switch mount to go in that spot. One of the guys here did that.
06-26-2012, 03:39 PM
06-26-2012, 03:49 PM
Transponder excess wire etc. vacant spot. Your not forced to run Batt forward u can run it in the box as well.
06-26-2012, 04:41 PM
06-26-2012, 05:21 PM
06-26-2012, 08:53 PM
06-26-2012, 09:33 PM
Has anyone ever used .95 springs with carbon shoes or dynamite max life clutch shoes? Thinking of trying this on my X3.
06-26-2012, 10:01 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (14)
I don't think you have your conversion correct. Spring stiffness is a force per length.
Other springs on the market are around 3 to 5.5 lb/in. Makes sense since your buggy is around 7-8 lbs which means that if you use a very soft spring that is 3 lb/in at all 4 corners, you will compress it about 2/3" at static ride height.
There are about 4.45 Newtons to 1 pound-force. And 0.0254 meters to 1 inch.
So a heavy spring of 5.5 lb/in equates to a stiffness of 964 N/m.
Other springs on the market are around 3 to 5.5 lb/in. Makes sense since your buggy is around 7-8 lbs which means that if you use a very soft spring that is 3 lb/in at all 4 corners, you will compress it about 2/3" at static ride height.
There are about 4.45 Newtons to 1 pound-force. And 0.0254 meters to 1 inch.
So a heavy spring of 5.5 lb/in equates to a stiffness of 964 N/m.
06-26-2012, 11:45 PM
Hi guys, got a question, sorry in advance if it's been covered already in a previous post..........
Was wondering as I'm a goose and can't understand the chart
I run an MBX6 and an MBX6T both have stock black springs.
Wich springs are softer the (black) springs that come standard with the MBX6 or the springs (silver) that come standard with the MBX6R ? and what the spring rates are ?
Also same question for the MBX6T and MBX6TR
I quess what I realy want to know is what springs to buy if I want to go 1 or 2 spring rates softer than stock so I only have 2 choices of springs for each vehicle instead of a whole set that I don't understand their rates anyway.
Any help appreciated
but part numbers would also help 
Was wondering as I'm a goose and can't understand the chart
I run an MBX6 and an MBX6T both have stock black springs.
Wich springs are softer the (black) springs that come standard with the MBX6 or the springs (silver) that come standard with the MBX6R ? and what the spring rates are ?
Also same question for the MBX6T and MBX6TR
I quess what I realy want to know is what springs to buy if I want to go 1 or 2 spring rates softer than stock so I only have 2 choices of springs for each vehicle instead of a whole set that I don't understand their rates anyway.
Any help appreciated
but part numbers would also help
