Mugen MBX6
NitroXray80809,
This is from few pages back..someone asked me the same question about the CF look part....easy if you do it this way..no messing around. I use normal 3M masking tape...and for detailed parts i use vinyl sheets i get from the hobby shops..i think the airplane guys use them to make decals end designs for planes. i never struggle with what you describe, but then again i design my paint jobs so that i do the MINIMUM amount of cutting....most of the things you see on that body are pre-cut. the windo design i borrowed from Robert Batlle's bitty body and just made it work a bit better with my lines. The stock window masks are too big imho...they make the body look like a puppy making a sadface
This is from few pages back..someone asked me the same question about the CF look part....easy if you do it this way..no messing around. I use normal 3M masking tape...and for detailed parts i use vinyl sheets i get from the hobby shops..i think the airplane guys use them to make decals end designs for planes. i never struggle with what you describe, but then again i design my paint jobs so that i do the MINIMUM amount of cutting....most of the things you see on that body are pre-cut. the windo design i borrowed from Robert Batlle's bitty body and just made it work a bit better with my lines. The stock window masks are too big imho...they make the body look like a puppy making a sadface
Perforated vinyl:
example: PS these images are straight from google and not mine....
http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j0...-PVC-Vinyl.jpg
and the stuff they use to do things like this mostly...or even shopfronts:
http://www.vehiclewrapping.com/galle...serialNumber=2
works a treat...the adhesive backing isnt super sticky and does not leave residue. also...it is hella easy forming it with a normal hairdryer...it just falls into every nook and cranny so to speak once you heat it up..it becomes 'leafy' ...and as soon as it cools down again it becomes stiffer like original, so you can just place..reposition and if you wanna go again just peel it off and try again..great stuff. the nice part is you just use it like you would any other self adhesive masking. Most Printing places around here stock rolls of it for large format printing...i just asked for an offcut piece and got it for free i could never find the stuff everybody in the US seems to use for the CF effect...we dont have those cupboard inlay crap here so one day i walk past a shopfront with some graphics printed on some perforated vinyl on the glas itself and i was like.....DUUUUUUHHHHH !!!!!!! it also looks more scale...the CF texture is almost exactly the same as the size of the CF texture on the towers...
example: PS these images are straight from google and not mine....
http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j0...-PVC-Vinyl.jpg
and the stuff they use to do things like this mostly...or even shopfronts:
http://www.vehiclewrapping.com/galle...serialNumber=2
works a treat...the adhesive backing isnt super sticky and does not leave residue. also...it is hella easy forming it with a normal hairdryer...it just falls into every nook and cranny so to speak once you heat it up..it becomes 'leafy' ...and as soon as it cools down again it becomes stiffer like original, so you can just place..reposition and if you wanna go again just peel it off and try again..great stuff. the nice part is you just use it like you would any other self adhesive masking. Most Printing places around here stock rolls of it for large format printing...i just asked for an offcut piece and got it for free i could never find the stuff everybody in the US seems to use for the CF effect...we dont have those cupboard inlay crap here so one day i walk past a shopfront with some graphics printed on some perforated vinyl on the glas itself and i was like.....DUUUUUUHHHHH !!!!!!! it also looks more scale...the CF texture is almost exactly the same as the size of the CF texture on the towers...
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MBX6 Purchase
Anyone know where you can still get the old MBX6 kit, and or who is doing the best prices currently. Amain did have the M spec cheap but they seem to be sold out
Dave
Dave
with this code 101NH you can save $150.00 and get a new 6r from tower hobbies mate and there in stock.got mine last friday and was roughly $540.00 AUS to the door
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Let me know (pm me) if either one of you want a good price on a Fusion X Engine by Novarossi
Dave
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Lipo Question
Hey guys, I don't know if this question belongs in this section or not, but here goes. I just purchased a 6R and I want to try to run lipo for the receiver battery. Based on the limited knowlege I have about lipos, I have a few questions about the proper set-up. I believe this is the battery I want for this car (ProTek R/C Li-Poly Flat Receiver Battery Pack (7.4V/2300mAh) (w/Balancer Plug)
I will be running a 7940 for the throttle/brake and a 7955 for the steering. Can I run this unregulated? Can I make it through a 30-45 minute main? Would this be an ideal set-up?
Thanks in advance,
Mike
I will be running a 7940 for the throttle/brake and a 7955 for the steering. Can I run this unregulated? Can I make it through a 30-45 minute main? Would this be an ideal set-up?
Thanks in advance,
Mike
On the shock bladders we ran the hot bodies all year with zero issue and there bullet proof. No foam required. I think Travis was running them as well.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...aintenance-Set
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...aintenance-Set
Hey guys, I don't know if this question belongs in this section or not, but here goes. I just purchased a 6R and I want to try to run lipo for the receiver battery. Based on the limited knowlege I have about lipos, I have a few questions about the proper set-up. I believe this is the battery I want for this car (ProTek R/C Li-Poly Flat Receiver Battery Pack (7.4V/2300mAh) (w/Balancer Plug)
I will be running a 7940 for the throttle/brake and a 7955 for the steering. Can I run this unregulated? Can I make it through a 30-45 minute main? Would this be an ideal set-up?
Thanks in advance,
Mike
I will be running a 7940 for the throttle/brake and a 7955 for the steering. Can I run this unregulated? Can I make it through a 30-45 minute main? Would this be an ideal set-up?
Thanks in advance,
Mike
I had a chance to my car out this afternoon!
I reconverted my electric car to nitro. After my exam I wanted to take a break from studying and go to the backyard track of the friend.
The car has the short chassis on it and the new battery tray. The track 50% dirt and 50% astroturf (which bummer for find a right setup, it's always give and take). It wasn't dry, but not too wet either. Perfect conditions!
I was running 450/400 with the 8.0 front and 8.5 rear spring, full droop. And almost the shortest wheelbase (because my Tekno V4 is a +5mm chassis).
I drove my car a few laps and it's totally different than electric, while I drove that setup last with the tekno chassis and electric motor. The nitro car felt a lot lighter and more nimble. But it was also bouncing more over the bumps.
Anyway, after a few laps, I didn't like the handling of the car. It wasn't stable at all and I had too much traction roll. And oh, wheelies :/ Went too a longer wheelbase (0.5mm shim in the back, rest in the front) and reduced the droop. The car was a lot better with these adjustments. I didn't bring other spring/swaybars with me. Just some basic tools, but that car was drivable now.
I wanted to test the car with the battery in the back also, but the car was actually going well, that I wanted to get more drivetime. I'll do the back to back testing an other time. After my exams probably
The car was very good and easy to drive. There's a long sweeper at the end of the straight and my electric car was kinda unpredictable and hard to control at the end. The nitro car was so much better in that turn, much easier to drive and more predictable.
I reconverted my electric car to nitro. After my exam I wanted to take a break from studying and go to the backyard track of the friend.
The car has the short chassis on it and the new battery tray. The track 50% dirt and 50% astroturf (which bummer for find a right setup, it's always give and take). It wasn't dry, but not too wet either. Perfect conditions!
I was running 450/400 with the 8.0 front and 8.5 rear spring, full droop. And almost the shortest wheelbase (because my Tekno V4 is a +5mm chassis).
I drove my car a few laps and it's totally different than electric, while I drove that setup last with the tekno chassis and electric motor. The nitro car felt a lot lighter and more nimble. But it was also bouncing more over the bumps.
Anyway, after a few laps, I didn't like the handling of the car. It wasn't stable at all and I had too much traction roll. And oh, wheelies :/ Went too a longer wheelbase (0.5mm shim in the back, rest in the front) and reduced the droop. The car was a lot better with these adjustments. I didn't bring other spring/swaybars with me. Just some basic tools, but that car was drivable now.
I wanted to test the car with the battery in the back also, but the car was actually going well, that I wanted to get more drivetime. I'll do the back to back testing an other time. After my exams probably
The car was very good and easy to drive. There's a long sweeper at the end of the straight and my electric car was kinda unpredictable and hard to control at the end. The nitro car was so much better in that turn, much easier to drive and more predictable.
Hey guys, I don't know if this question belongs in this section or not, but here goes. I just purchased a 6R and I want to try to run lipo for the receiver battery. Based on the limited knowlege I have about lipos, I have a few questions about the proper set-up. I believe this is the battery I want for this car (ProTek R/C Li-Poly Flat Receiver Battery Pack (7.4V/2300mAh) (w/Balancer Plug)
I will be running a 7940 for the throttle/brake and a 7955 for the steering. Can I run this unregulated? Can I make it through a 30-45 minute main? Would this be an ideal set-up?
Thanks in advance,
Mike
I will be running a 7940 for the throttle/brake and a 7955 for the steering. Can I run this unregulated? Can I make it through a 30-45 minute main? Would this be an ideal set-up?
Thanks in advance,
Mike
Hey guys, I don't know if this question belongs in this section or not, but here goes. I just purchased a 6R and I want to try to run lipo for the receiver battery. Based on the limited knowlege I have about lipos, I have a few questions about the proper set-up. I believe this is the battery I want for this car (ProTek R/C Li-Poly Flat Receiver Battery Pack (7.4V/2300mAh) (w/Balancer Plug)
I will be running a 7940 for the throttle/brake and a 7955 for the steering. Can I run this unregulated? Can I make it through a 30-45 minute main? Would this be an ideal set-up?
Thanks in advance,
Mike
I will be running a 7940 for the throttle/brake and a 7955 for the steering. Can I run this unregulated? Can I make it through a 30-45 minute main? Would this be an ideal set-up?
Thanks in advance,
Mike
Make sure your receiver will handle the extra voltage.
As far as run time, the lipo you mention will have no problems with running 45 minutes. I have ran them for much longer than that in practice sessions.
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iTrader: (34)
The servos I mentioned are Hitec. The 7940 is a high voltage servo so I am not really worried about that one. However, I am going to buy a new steering servo and based on my previous post am I better off with the Hitec 7955 or the Hitec 7950? I would prefer the 7955 because it is 30 dollars cheaper, but I want something that will last (preferably more than 1-2 seasons). Also, the receiver I will use is a spektrum SR3100. Which would be the more ideal set-up? By the responses given, I assume I do not need a regulator, correct?
Thanks for the help,
Mike
Thanks for the help,
Mike
The servos I mentioned are Hitec. The 7940 is a high voltage servo so I am not really worried about that one. However, I am going to buy a new steering servo and based on my previous post am I better off with the Hitec 7955 or the Hitec 7950? I would prefer the 7955 because it is 30 dollars cheaper, but I want something that will last (preferably more than 1-2 seasons). Also, the receiver I will use is a spektrum SR3100. Which would be the more ideal set-up? By the responses given, I assume I do not need a regulator, correct?
Thanks for the help,
Mike
Thanks for the help,
Mike
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
I run only run Hitec. I run 7955's and 7954's on lipo direct. I've had all of them fail. I set all my end points well short of full throw and still had them fail......8lbs buggy traveling 35+ miles an hour puts a lot of strain on them. it happens. Good thing about Hitec is their warranty best in the bizz if you ask me. I do agree running strait lipo is hard on servos HV or not you are running a componet at is max.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (34)
Am I safer with a regulator? If so, which one for the battery previously mentioned?
Thanks, Mike
Thanks, Mike