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Team Associated 1/8 scale Truggy Info and Tips

Team Associated 1/8 scale Truggy Info and Tips

Old 11-27-2011, 08:44 PM
  #3466  
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The smaller spur also brings the engine a bit closer to the centerline of the chassis.
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Old 11-27-2011, 10:28 PM
  #3467  
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Originally Posted by kja812
The smaller spur also brings the engine a bit closer to the centerline of the chassis.
True.

I will stick to the 54T spur until I win Nationals Thanks guys
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Old 11-28-2011, 01:19 AM
  #3468  
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Originally Posted by croracer
Anyone running a hb d8t tank in there truck, and it seems to be opening or leaking fuel?

I'm not sure if it's the puller rubbing on the body
I have one in mine and I haven't had mine leak yet. Could be either or both of the reasone you gave. Also check the fuel line fitting on the tank as well. Another place it "could" leak.
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Old 11-28-2011, 11:02 PM
  #3469  
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Originally Posted by dragracechief
I prefer these from hot racing. Seem to be nice quality and not quite as blingy. I would prefer to use the AE Factory Team ones but these are almost 1/2 the price and there is always something to buy so I try to watch my hobby spending.



anyone have a link to these rear hubs??? Are they about the same as the FT ones just cheaper?
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Old 11-29-2011, 06:20 AM
  #3470  
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I just looked on their website: http://www.hot-racing.com/index.cgi?c=423
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Old 11-29-2011, 06:06 PM
  #3471  
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Default rc8t e ce gearing and diff oils

i run a tekin t2000 on 4s
54/16
diffs are stock 7 7 7
any recommendations for low to med traction for diffs and gearing?
thanks
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Old 11-29-2011, 06:44 PM
  #3472  
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Originally Posted by boudin4evr
i run a tekin t2000 on 4s
54/16
diffs are stock 7 7 7
any recommendations for low to med traction for diffs and gearing?
thanks

You should post this in the electric offroad tread but im not sure on the gearing on a 2000kv motor . As for diffs 7k in the front is fine ive tried 7k in the center on my electric rc8tce its good on slick tracks but ive notice the oil burns off quicker ive been using 10k in the center it just seems better for a E-truggy. On a low to med traction 5k is good for the rear it will give you less rotation on this truggy and will come out straighter out of turns .
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Old 11-29-2011, 11:51 PM
  #3473  
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hey guys
i have been rebuilding my center diff alot recently as it has seemed to have lost its oil retaining capabilities. i tried new gaskets then went with gaskets and diff housing and it still coats the inside of my bodyshell and chassi plate with a perfect line of oil is there any secret tips or handshakes i need to perform whilest rebuilding the diff again
thanks
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Old 11-30-2011, 07:14 AM
  #3474  
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Originally Posted by kneedeeppow
hey guys
i have been rebuilding my center diff alot recently as it has seemed to have lost its oil retaining capabilities. i tried new gaskets then went with gaskets and diff housing and it still coats the inside of my bodyshell and chassi plate with a perfect line of oil is there any secret tips or handshakes i need to perform whilest rebuilding the diff again
thanks
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


This is the best way IMHO. Lube the O-rings with black grease, lightly sand the face that goes against the gear/gasket with fine grit sandpaper to assure a good fit and remove any imperfections. Place the diff cup on the sandpaper and lightly sand it in figure 8 motions. Tighten the diff screws evenly by hand, not a electric screwdriver. The way Lutz places the top crown gear in makes the fill of the diff perfect every time. Hope this helps.
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Old 11-30-2011, 05:23 PM
  #3475  
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Default set up sheet question

So here goes....the old RC8T setup sheet is used for the RC8T CHAMPIONSHIP EDITION for 2011....my question is: On the rear shock tower (red circle) on setup sheet 2011 the "1 hole" is used. What hole does the "1 hole" correspond closest to of the 9 optional holes on the new shock tower?
thanks.... -Hoosier


2011 setup


2009 setup
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Old 11-30-2011, 06:19 PM
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Ryan's nats setup sheet has camber link as 1-A... so, bottom right hole (on the setup sheet) and middle hole on the hub.
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Old 11-30-2011, 06:42 PM
  #3477  
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Originally Posted by R/C Lidz
Ryan's nats setup sheet has camber link as 1-A... so, bottom right hole (on the setup sheet) and middle hole on the hub.
Thanks, so 1A = 1 hole on the CE tower. It says he is running the CNC FT rear hubs using the C-hole in the notes. Hmmmmm, 88g ....

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Old 11-30-2011, 08:47 PM
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I didn't see the notes. The C hole is the inner hole, so that would make it 1-C.

I did see pics of the rides and there were a bunch of lead weights under the rear driveshafts.
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Old 11-30-2011, 09:09 PM
  #3479  
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Hoosier, the #3 hole on the CE tower is the same geometric location as the #1 hole on the carbon tower.
I just checked my old CE tower with the carbon tower on our truck.
As for the nats setup, I was pitting right behind Ryan. He did in fact run the #1 hole on cf tower and c hole on FT hubs. And for the weight, his truck is so lightened he needed to add some to make it legal.
Keep in mind however, the best setup for you isn't necessarily the one someone like Ryan uses. The Pros often make changes after every heat race to try and make the car better or easier to drive.
Track conditions change throughout the day and (this is a big one)... many drivers' style is different. For instance Maifield is always strapped and hammering, while Tebo is smooth and flowing.
These setups are helpful, but I recommend trying different setup adjustments (one at a time) to help you feel the difference of your change.

Hope that helped, good luck!
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Old 11-30-2011, 09:20 PM
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Understood, so he actually ran the CF towers.... Interesting. I ask just to see if I can understand "Why" mostly, in my never ending quest on set-ups... Can you tell me the best reason in your opinion that the FT aluminum rear hubs with the C hole are used?

Sincerely, Thank you for your advice guys.
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