Team Associated 1/8 scale Truggy Info and Tips
Thanks guys
Are they about the same as the FT ones just cheaper?
11-29-2011, 06:44 PM
#3472
You should post this in the electric offroad tread but im not sure on the gearing on a 2000kv motor . As for diffs 7k in the front is fine ive tried 7k in the center on my electric rc8tce its good on slick tracks but ive notice the oil burns off quicker ive been using 10k in the center it just seems better for a E-truggy. On a low to med traction 5k is good for the rear it will give you less rotation on this truggy and will come out straighter out of turns .
11-29-2011, 11:51 PM
#3473
hey guys
i have been rebuilding my center diff alot recently as it has seemed to have lost its oil retaining capabilities. i tried new gaskets then went with gaskets and diff housing and it still coats the inside of my bodyshell and chassi plate with a perfect line of oil
is there any secret tips or handshakes i need to perform whilest rebuilding the diff again
thanks
i have been rebuilding my center diff alot recently as it has seemed to have lost its oil retaining capabilities. i tried new gaskets then went with gaskets and diff housing and it still coats the inside of my bodyshell and chassi plate with a perfect line of oil
is there any secret tips or handshakes i need to perform whilest rebuilding the diff againthanks
11-30-2011, 07:14 AM
#3474
hey guys
i have been rebuilding my center diff alot recently as it has seemed to have lost its oil retaining capabilities. i tried new gaskets then went with gaskets and diff housing and it still coats the inside of my bodyshell and chassi plate with a perfect line of oil is there any secret tips or handshakes i need to perform whilest rebuilding the diff again
thanks
i have been rebuilding my center diff alot recently as it has seemed to have lost its oil retaining capabilities. i tried new gaskets then went with gaskets and diff housing and it still coats the inside of my bodyshell and chassi plate with a perfect line of oil
is there any secret tips or handshakes i need to perform whilest rebuilding the diff againthanks
| + YouTube Video | |
This is the best way IMHO. Lube the O-rings with black grease, lightly sand the face that goes against the gear/gasket with fine grit sandpaper to assure a good fit and remove any imperfections. Place the diff cup on the sandpaper and lightly sand it in figure 8 motions. Tighten the diff screws evenly by hand, not a electric screwdriver. The way Lutz places the top crown gear in makes the fill of the diff perfect every time. Hope this helps.
11-30-2011, 05:23 PM
#3475
set up sheet question
So here goes....the old RC8T setup sheet is used for the RC8T CHAMPIONSHIP EDITION for 2011....my question is: On the rear shock tower (red circle) on setup sheet 2011 the "1 hole" is used. What hole does the "1 hole" correspond closest to of the 9 optional holes on the new shock tower?
thanks.... -Hoosier
2011 setup
2009 setup
thanks.... -Hoosier
2011 setup
2009 setup
11-30-2011, 09:09 PM
#3479
Hoosier, the #3 hole on the CE tower is the same geometric location as the #1 hole on the carbon tower.
I just checked my old CE tower with the carbon tower on our truck.
As for the nats setup, I was pitting right behind Ryan. He did in fact run the #1 hole on cf tower and c hole on FT hubs. And for the weight, his truck is so lightened he needed to add some to make it legal.
Keep in mind however, the best setup for you isn't necessarily the one someone like Ryan uses. The Pros often make changes after every heat race to try and make the car better or easier to drive.
Track conditions change throughout the day and (this is a big one)... many drivers' style is different. For instance Maifield is always strapped and hammering, while Tebo is smooth and flowing.
These setups are helpful, but I recommend trying different setup adjustments (one at a time) to help you feel the difference of your change.
Hope that helped, good luck!
I just checked my old CE tower with the carbon tower on our truck.
As for the nats setup, I was pitting right behind Ryan. He did in fact run the #1 hole on cf tower and c hole on FT hubs. And for the weight, his truck is so lightened he needed to add some to make it legal.
Keep in mind however, the best setup for you isn't necessarily the one someone like Ryan uses. The Pros often make changes after every heat race to try and make the car better or easier to drive.
Track conditions change throughout the day and (this is a big one)... many drivers' style is different. For instance Maifield is always strapped and hammering, while Tebo is smooth and flowing.
These setups are helpful, but I recommend trying different setup adjustments (one at a time) to help you feel the difference of your change.
Hope that helped, good luck!
11-30-2011, 09:20 PM
#3480
Understood, so he actually ran the CF towers.... Interesting. I ask just to see if I can understand "Why" mostly, in my never ending quest on set-ups... Can you tell me the best reason in your opinion that the FT aluminum rear hubs with the C hole are used?
Sincerely, Thank you for your advice guys.
Sincerely, Thank you for your advice guys.