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Team Associated 1/8 scale Truggy Info and Tips

Team Associated 1/8 scale Truggy Info and Tips

Old 11-11-2011, 08:09 PM
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on my truggy I always ran plastic front alum rear
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Old 11-11-2011, 11:10 PM
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What's the overall weight of your RC8T, anyone?
How do you keep it low?

Thanks.
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Old 11-13-2011, 11:50 AM
  #3453  
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Nothing that I'm aware of for updates. I also dont believe you will see the new elevated JC wheels coming in any of the kits.
There are a few parts from the 8.2 buggy that you can use.
The wing mount is one of them, however unnecessary. The lower wing on the buggy didnt seem to have any effect in the feel of driving the car, however lap times were slightly lower. No difference on the truck though, so not the best bang for your buck.
The aluminum steering posts will work, new front and rear lighter diffs will fit. These will not change performance, just save weight which in turn can help handling & fuel mileage. Other things that can save you some grams would be the aluminum stub axles and cups, Titanium screw kit (Lunsford), and carbon fiber towers. The carbon towers the team uses are simply the same ones from the original RC8T, same geometry, just less weight. You just have to relocate the rear body mount.
As for diff oil setup, there is no magic combo. Every track and driver is different.
We mostly run 7/10/7.
7/7/7 was also good, however if ur hard on the throttle the center tends to burn up easier, which is why we went to 10k.
Anything less than 7 in the rear makes the rear way to loose and over-rotates. This may be good a track with high traction when you want the rear to come around easier.
Another thing to watch is the steering servo saver. If you dont loctite or glue it in place it WILL move. So if you have on power steering problems, look there first.
Hope that helped some of you...
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Old 11-13-2011, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by t4ftracer
Nothing that I'm aware of for updates. I also dont believe you will see the new elevated JC wheels coming in any of the kits.
There are a few parts from the 8.2 buggy that you can use.
The wing mount is one of them, however unnecessary. The lower wing on the buggy didnt seem to have any effect in the feel of driving the car, however lap times were slightly lower. No difference on the truck though, so not the best bang for your buck.
The aluminum steering posts will work, new front and rear lighter diffs will fit. These will not change performance, just save weight which in turn can help handling & fuel mileage. Other things that can save you some grams would be the aluminum stub axles and cups, Titanium screw kit (Lunsford), and carbon fiber towers. The carbon towers the team uses are simply the same ones from the original RC8T, same geometry, just less weight. You just have to relocate the rear body mount.
As for diff oil setup, there is no magic combo. Every track and driver is different.
We mostly run 7/10/7.
7/7/7 was also good, however if ur hard on the throttle the center tends to burn up easier, which is why we went to 10k.
Anything less than 7 in the rear makes the rear way to loose and over-rotates. This may be good a track with high traction when you want the rear to come around easier.
Another thing to watch is the steering servo saver. If you dont loctite or glue it in place it WILL move. So if you have on power steering problems, look there first.
Hope that helped some of you...




Im not sure about using less than 7k in the rear diff the rear end will come loose i run on a dry track and doesnt seemed to over rotate with 5k . My center diff has 10k but than again i like more torque out of the corners 7k in the center is ok . But i do run a converted RC8TCE though . But i did run 7,7,3 when i ran my Rc8t as nitro and it was doing the things you where mentioning.

But yea it does depend on what the person likes for sure.

I am interested in the alum steering posts do they really take some weight off ?
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Old 11-14-2011, 06:45 AM
  #3455  
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I ran the short wing mount on my truggy, with 10/10/3 and loved it. 100% rear brake. Turned like nobody's business but may be too aggressive for some.
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Old 11-20-2011, 04:28 PM
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I just got a used rc8t ce and i have a question. what besides weight would be the advantage to running carbon firbre towers than the stock alum?

thanks
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Old 11-20-2011, 04:52 PM
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CF won't bend on you and mess with your setup....takes a lot to bust a CF tower in my experience. I did it once but that was hitting a chain-link fence post at full speed after a bad/crooked jump. I haven't tried the alum towers off the CE personally, still running an original FT version.
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Old 11-20-2011, 05:27 PM
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I was thinking about getting the CF towers for my RC8TCE electric to save weight but i heard from somebody saying that with the Alum ce towers its easyer to get to your diffs etc extra tuning holes .

And yea i heard that CF towers crack easier but from exprience running onroad tc at least if you use CA clue around the edges there good.

Last edited by tc5 man; 11-20-2011 at 05:56 PM.
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Old 11-21-2011, 04:01 AM
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The rear aluminum tower has an extra set of camber link adjustment holes, and aside from being a little lighter, that's about the only difference between the towers. I've been running carbon fiber towers on mine and I haven't had any durability problems.
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Old 11-21-2011, 06:03 PM
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Il try the carbon towers out on the rc8tce the only ones i saw on Amain hobbies at least was the xtreme r/c ones but they look good there 4mm.


Has anybody notice when using the "14 degree caster inserts" with the stock setting on the kick up they ware pretty fast and get sloppy ? The 16 degree caster inserts with the stock kick up setting seem to last longer for sure.

Also does anybody know if the mugen Mbx6t rear camber links will work they look the same as the RC8T ones ? I boiled the rear rc8t camber ball links and they still bend and tighten up the supension on one side almost binding there new by the way ?
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Old 11-22-2011, 10:42 AM
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Anybody ?
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Old 11-27-2011, 06:53 PM
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Questions??

I was looking over the set-up sheets for the RC8T for Cavalieri and Maifield etc...The gearing they run with a lot of the times run with a 50T spur. For example, they run a 13T clutchbell and a 50T spur gear. The stock gearing is a 14T clutchbell and a 54 spur gear. I ran these numbers for the RC8T (transmission gearing is 4.30:1 on the RC8T according to the Team Associated website), and here are the pics.

question... WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE? Other than a few hundredths difference in gear ratio? Ups and Downs??

THE PRO'S


STOCK


I do know running a smaller tooth CB gives more bottom and limits the top and the opposite is for the SG.

• Smaller pinion / larger spur = high gearing (long/tall) = faster acceleration but lower top speed
• Larger pinion / smaller spur = low gearing (short) = slower acceleration but higher top speed
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Old 11-27-2011, 07:22 PM
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Smaller spur and smaller clutch bell= less rotating weight but similar gear ratio. So by doing this you save weight and get more snap on the bottom for better acceleration and keep the top end.
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Old 11-27-2011, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Audiobahnaholic
Smaller spur and smaller clutch bell= less rotating weight but similar gear ratio. So by doing this you save weight and get more snap on the bottom for better acceleration and keep the top end.
that is an excellent answer...thanks.
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Old 11-27-2011, 07:59 PM
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Anyone running a hb d8t tank in there truck, and it seems to be opening or leaking fuel?

I'm not sure if it's the puller rubbing on the body
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