Integra

iTrader: (8)

drop it LEVEL from about 6-10"....LEAVE It and take the mesurement.....
i run stock height's....seem's low compared to other buggy/truggy's...but there's a reason why it handle's the way it does.

clebo3

iTrader: (3)

I would like for some body to explain the differance between adjusting the ride height vesus the droop. I understand the weight transfer, but was wondering when to adjust the droop or ride height. Thanks for any advice.

Integra

iTrader: (8)

imo unless ur a sponsored driver and can afford to Gouge little holes in the chassy every couple race weekends from trying to set the Droop more then the suspension will go is a big waste of chassy's and $$....as chassy's arent exactly cheep.....imo its a poor design....we need some sort of replacable tab there...so when it does gouge out the peice it could at least be replaced.....i kno of i chassy that does this....but it aint alum.....what i would reccomend is to set the droop screw's to BARELY take the weight off the shock ends...and thats it....and somehow on the buggy i have different end droop screw's....there alot rounder and i thought they would'nt beat the chassy as bad...so the first weekend i raced it...i played with the droop screw's to only have them dig into the chassy and need more and more tweeking as the race weekend went on.


clebo3 i aint no set-up guru....but im sure Air could answer more of your general question...as i dont honestly know either.

Merciless

1st Ride height adjusts ....... well ride height . It's the amount of UP travel in the shocks from "chassis at rest" to deal with Jumps,bumps and any other undulations in the track. Usually the higher you set your car the less grip it has and more unsettled it becomes.

2nd Droop adjust the amount of DOWN travel your arms have and that in turn adjusts how much weight transfere occurs.

So if you don't us the screws while breaking into a corner all the weight from the rear of the buggy will transfere to the front making the back loose. By the same token when you accelerate out the corner all the weight will transfere to the rear removing grip from the front tires !

By winding in the screws some, both at the front and rear you CAN make the buggy handle much more consistant both entering and exiting the corners.

But it's a trade off as the more droop you wind on (screwing the screws down towards the chassis) the less well your buggy will handle the bumpy sections as your removing shock travel all the time. Its a compromise .........

Droop is a very important adjustment and can totally transform the way a buggy handles. It's something you should learn and try to understand

air8

iTrader: (7)

I'd like the same thing Integra is referring too with the droop screws. The screws really pound the chassis each time the arm goes to full droop. You know like each time your buggy leaves the ground.

When I run on the outdoor loose tracks I back the droop screws out like Integra describes. So the screw just touches the chassis at full droop. Then I set the ride height depending on how I want the buggy to behave that day. If i keep traction rolling I'll reduce the ride height.

If I race on an indoor track I'll use the droop screws. Again this depends on how the buggy is behaving. If I need more steering out/less in I'll let the front go full droop and reduce droop on the rear.

Don't forget that each driver prefers their vehicle to behave the way they want. Usually two drivers don't like the exact same setup. But sometimes they do. I suggest to make big adjustments during a practice day, or on a club race day. Move the droop screws on the front or the rear and then drive it for a half tank. Then move that end back and change the other end of the buggy. Finish off the tank. Then write down what you think the changes did. And if you liked it or not.

Hope this helps. The guys in this thread really know their stuff.

Integra

iTrader: (8)

there is some sence behind my madness u know...

Jonro

im just getting started on building my new 8ight kit(BTW this is my first serious build ever so please excuse the noobness) and im just putting the server saver together, in the manual it says: "tighten the server saver nut all the way down" when they mean "all the way down" do they mean to the finish of the thread on the servo saver body or flush with the bottom of the body... basically can anyone go into a bit better detail as to how i set it up than in the instructions?

Also that little symbol that shows to "degrease with motor spray" on some screws and things can i just use denatured alcohol or nor mal car motor degreaser? How critical is it?

Merciless

I think it says "tighten the server saver nut all the way down" and then back it off X turns or something ?? found it online..... what it says is "Tighten the Servo Saver nut all the way down and then back it off 2 1/2 turns."

So fully screw the nut down fully compressing the spring and the unwind it the 2 1/2 turns ........

Clear as mud

Rod

Merciless

degreasing the shock shafts and screws that hold the pistons in place is VERY important. I would strongly recommend using motor cleaner or automotive clutch and brake cleaner ...... loctite the screws into the top of the shafts too using a quality loctite as these have a tendancy to back out during your mains if you fail to take the proper care needed on the above steps........

Rod

badassrevo

iTrader: (12)

+1 if you do anything at all you must do this.

porter

iTrader: (47)

Have any of you guys tried the newer Losi/GRP Atomic, or Eclipes treads? And if so how do they compare to say Proline Crimes, or Bowties, same, better, worse?

I'm getting ready to purchase a few new treads, and hate to spend that kinda money to find I've gone backwards. I generaly run Crimefighters on most tracks I race on, so just wondering.

Thanks

badassrevo

iTrader: (12)

If you run crimes you need to try Losi xbt's

air8

iTrader: (7)

Agreed. I'm liking the Losi X patterns lately.

juzza99

iTrader: (1)

Hi peeps. Ive got another droop question. For a rough open track what shock length do you guys in the states run, and where do you measure from. I have truhes set up sheet from last year sometime and it says 95mm front and 106.5 back but is that overall shock length or from centre of top and bottom screw?????????? Thanks in advance for any answers

Lars Johnson

iTrader: (5)

Porter - If your track develops a "blue groove," i'd give Red Eclipse's or XBT's a shot. Especially If the track grooves and still has a lot of fluff on top with a visual groove underneath, they will last a while. It's hard to compare Red and Silver compounds to M2 and M3, because each have their own different characteristics that differ on certain types of tracks. In my opinion, Hi bite or abrasive tracks with no groove - Silvers and M2's handle somewhat similar, M3's probably will work a little better, but won't last as long as M2's or Silvers. If the track is run wet, or consistently gets watered, M3's typically are the way to go. If there is a blue groove, it's hard to beat a Red. All the GRP tires currently only come in Blue compound, which (IMO) works similar to a Silver, but has longer tread life. I've had a hard time making Blue compounds work on blue-groove tracks, but the only Blue's I've run are Step Pins.