badassrevo

iTrader: (12)

No, Losi originally put black orings in the cars but due to leakage problems they changed to white orings. Just get the Losi shock service kit it will come with the new white orings.
http://www.tiltedrc.com/product_info...oducts_id=3485

Runaway Jim

sounds good. thanks for the help. talk with you later.

Runaway Jim

hey, i've got a revo 3.3 as well. do you think the 30 weight shock oil is appropriate for that truck? if not which weight should i go with for the 3.3?

C&B RC

iTrader: (1)

Well that's really a question for another forum, but I 'll help you out. I run 50 wt in my revo. 40wt in the 8ight.

losifiend

iTrader: (73)

Took my 8ight to Revelation raceway tonite, its maiden voyage on the track, and all I can say is .....WOW!! This thing is bad ass! I had allready put 5 tanks through the Hyper21 in a parking lot with road tyres and managed to put another 8 tanks through it at the track with out a glitch. The motor started to wake up but is still really tight.

I have been to the track numerous times with my race prepped LST2 and CRT.5 and have never had this much fun!! Ran out of fuel twice since I was having so much fun....I'm in love and I'm even thinking of attending the club races at Revo. too.

Cvdiver

iTrader: (5)

I know that I have seen this before, but I can't find it on here. I was running my 8 this afternoon. The coupler from the front driveshaft to the diff decided it had better places to be than my buggy. No biggy. What is everyone using to keep that thing together?

tex1

iTrader: (4)

The center coupler should be red locktite on the big screw that holds it to the shaft and blue loctite on the inside grub screw. Clean your threads real good before you apply it. You only need a little.
Hope this helps.
TEX

Geo Y-Rock

iTrader: (2)

Use the cvd condoms. If the set screw lets go, the condom will contain the pin.

GMK0119 GMK Supply "CVD Condoms" (Team Losi 8ight/8ight-T)

A Main Hobbies

SteveJa

iTrader: (17)

what is everyone using for clutch bells. I have been using the stock Losi ones or the Robinson ones. I have been having a lot of problems with the stock Losi ones. The bearings fit very loose in the bell... and causes a lot of slop side to side.. this is not good as it takes the bearings and the bells out... (this is with new bells) also I tried the super glue trick.. seems to work for awhile but you have to redo it alot.... with the Robinson bells, I have 3 of them and all 3 have teeth missing.....

so I ask... is there a better clutch bell that fits on the stock flywheel/clutch setup ?


Thanks

Marz

iTrader: (9)

Just grab the Losi quick change engine mount dude.
Allows about 2mm forward movement, so you can use a normal clutch and clutch bell.

thecman26

iTrader: (112)

Why would anyone wanna do that? The Losi clutch rocks!
If it is setup and shimmed properly its the best clutch around!

Marz

iTrader: (9)

Who says it's the 'best clutch around'?
If he's having problems, than why not.
I'm offering him an option...not once did I say "the Losi OEM clutch is shit"

thecman26

iTrader: (112)

Allright, but I would recommend that he ask another losi guy around him to look at it... I dont seem to have much slop in my clutch bells but they aren't that old either... If I have a problem I allways ask for a second set of eyes on it. ALLWAYS works! A second opinion touching the item allways helps out for me....

thecman26

iTrader: (112)

That and it allways helps to have sponsored drivers at hand to ask for help....

Lars Johnson

iTrader: (5)

i think the 1st question would be - is your bell shimmed correctly, between the big bearing and the clutch nut, or between the small bearing and the screw/countersunk washer that holds the whole thing in place? If not, get few shims, like the ones that come in the Clutch Pins & Hardware bag or another clutch shim kit, as having 0 shims in there will cause the bell to move excessively. With no shims behind the big bearing, the bell can hit the flywheel. With no shims outside of the small bearing, the clutch will move entirely too far forward, almost into the gas tank on hard hits. I have 1 behind the big bearing and 3 outside of the small bearing on mine, but it's going to be different for every motor, just something you have to mess with.

I'd look, or have someone else look at your gear mesh as well. Too tight will grenade clutch bearings, and too loose will grenade bells and bearings. The "jam a slice of paper between the gears, then set" trick works well.

There needs to be a little play in the clutch bearings, it sometimes does feel excessive, but it needs to have that. I replace the bearings often, usually every 1-2 weekends, depending on the dust-e-ness of the track. I use the metal-shielded ProTek bearings from A-Main, and at $1 a pop they're easily worth it. I know guys that use rubber shields from there also and have no issues, but clutch bearings will wear out faster than most other parts of the car due to the heat generated in their immediate vicinity, and the aluminum/composite dust that they gnaw on constantly. And once those things go, your bell can start moving too much, so bearings would be another item to check. Spray them out with electric motor spray, and make sure there is no crunch or stopping when they spin (very free) under minimal effort. If you re-oil them, don't go crazy.