1RC_ROOKIE

Hi everyone,

Quick question, I am running the 8 RTR that came stock with the 2 shoe clutch flywheel setup, I ordered 4 new shoes and springs. Can I run the RTR flywheel with the 4 shoes without any problems? I was looking at another guys flywheel that runs the race roller and the flywheel looks a little more beefer that the RTR one..Any thoughs?

Thx
Dan

boostfiend

iTrader: (1)

The length of the spring is a key. I ran into the same problem and have since 'designed' a fail safe for the dragging problem. Uses two springs per caliper and springs in the linkage as well.

The springs on the caliper screws allow one to adjust the brake WAY close to the rotor. Without them, it kicks the rotor off to an angle when on the brakes thus giving you very little contact area and alas; fade. Not to mention wearing out the rotor very quickly.

It appears a slightly longer pivot arm would fix the problem, but the springs work perfectly if you get it just right.

boostfiend

iTrader: (1)

I've only seen one RTR, but the flywheel looked exactly the same - just minus two shoes. You should be able to add another two shoes and have the same setup as the kit/roller. It should also really help the clutch 'feel' too!

AZRCaddict

iTrader: (9)

You could of gotten the original flywheel, the super skinny one. It's lighter so the motor winds up quicker but they quit making them because they were cutting into the starter box wheel.

desertbird

iTrader: (7)

After I installed my springs last night I noticed to that I could set my caliper probably .5mm - 1mm from the rotor now. I haven't tried it yet but hope it'll allow less fading.

Also, does anyone run springs instead of fuel tube on the linkage? I thought that was contributing to some of my fade and I put some springs that were slightly more beefy then a ball point pen spring on my linkage. It seemed to help. My reasononing was that once all that brake linkage starts to get hot the tube just is not consistent and contributes to fading.

1RC_ROOKIE

Thats correct, seems like just the part of the flywheel that contacts the starter wheel is thinner on the RTR than the roller/kit. I personally thought that the stock RTR setup (2 alum shoe 2 silver springs) didnt have much feel but felt like it had some snap to it though. I am going to run 2 comp shoes with gold springs and two max life's with silver springs on a sweepy outdoor track with some med to large jumps...Here is another silly question, I tried running 1000 in the rear diff, but i found the rear end would oversteer, not alot but just too much for my liking. I like to run 2000 in the rear diff but that I am fresh out of. I have a race this weekend, and all I (and my LHS) have for diff fluid is 1000 and 3000. What would it feel like if I filled the diff half and half of 1000 and 3000 has anyone tried this? Or should I just run the 3000?


Thanx for the reply guys.

Dan.

jkirkwood

iTrader: (8)

if you mixed 3k and 1k it would feel very similar to 2k.

AZRCaddict

iTrader: (9)

37% 1k
63% 3k
= About 2k

http://www.gesilicones.com/gesilwiza...ng/fluid2.html

air8

iTrader: (7)

So Losi quit making the skinny flywheel? I recently bought a new flywheel and thought "WTF" when I saw it was twice as wide as the previous flywheels I've purchased. I didn't think much about it till I ran a race and noticed the difference. I'm still undecided weather I like it or not.

Lars Johnson

iTrader: (5)

Yes, the wider footprint on the updated flywheel is much easier on the rubber starter box wheels, and fingers among other things... Both the Alum and Steel flywheels are cut that way now.

cornerspeed

+1 agreed same thing happened when I installed them.

cornerspeed

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losifiend

iTrader: (73)

Like someone else mentioned, it probably was the type of springs used. I am using the same OFNA springs that I use on my Jammin CRT.5 and have never had any brake problems what so ever on that rig. This springs are allmost hair thin with the coils pretty far appart and made specifically for this application. I personally would never use a pen spring because its not desinged to be used as a break spring.

Integra

iTrader: (8)

i tried the Ofna's....same result...notchy brakes and they made the cams stick....u would think the 100% opposite...but once u got a little gritty dirt on em they would start to lock up at idle position..the Trinity springs were WAY too stiff and too long to effectively work....the spring is working the servo more then the actual brakes.....so those didnt even get used....i went back to running nothing on the shafts and have had no issues since.....also the ofna's are SOO thin that they can actually get pinched inbetween the cam and the shaft...that caused some Super bad brakes....basically unless ur having brake drag issues then dont bother messing with the cam springs...Its a waste of time.

Nik

iTrader: (1)

I used ballpoint pen springs for a while. More trouble then it was worth. Got stuck and hung up alot. They would sometimes work their way under the calipers and bind.

I mean, whats the point to have springs on you pads if the discs float anyways?

waste of time- x2