Official Team Associated Rival Monster Truck Thread
#736
Tech Rookie
Hi everyone, just thought I'd share a few pictures of the new body on my rival. Was never a big fan of the original so I picked up the Proline Savage xl F150 and sprayed it up last night. Very happy with the fit and scale look. I like the way the blue body trim ties in with the blue beadlock rims. Loving the forum guys, hope I might have inspired some of you, cheers
#737
Tech Champion
Very nice looking.. Did you paint in that blue trim, or are they stickers? Looks great..
#738
Just ordered my RIVAL today. Should be here in about a week. I had an rc10 gold chassis and rc10t about 20+ (bought a first edition in 1992) years ago and got the bug to get back into RC. I read this thread a few times and helped to convince me that the RIVAL was the right choice. Thanks to all of you on your input!!
Last edited by 2012SilverSport; 02-17-2014 at 07:15 AM.
#739
Tech Rookie
Thanks for the positive feedback, the blue trim is actually a decal part of the Proline body kit
#741
Tech Rookie
Sorry you're right, my mistake it's a Hpi body. I got myself confused I think because there were so many Proline bodies hanging up in the shop
#742
I bought a Rival last month and have been slowly getting it up to speed. I originally had 500k in the center but it wasn't enough so I loaded it up with the Ofna diff locking fluid. That stuff is so thick! It's perfect, almost locks the diff but sill gives a little action to reduce shock. I also filled the front with 30k and the rear with 20k and shimmed everything up, red/copper springs, The Dude steering link, switched the stock electronics out for MMM and 2200 motor so I can run 6S. On 6S with a 19t pinion it is unbelievably fast. It's amazing how much power comes out of these little motors with a few more volts. Next up is a new servo to replace that wimpy stock one. I have a Hobbico CS170 floating around I'm going to try. The stock esc and motor are going in my T-Maxx electric conversion. So far nothing nothing broke. I'm impressed.
Last edited by rjohn929; 02-17-2014 at 05:01 PM.
#743
Well just gave it a run on 4s wow so much more power. But I still here a clicking noise.
#746
Funny, that was the first thing I said to myself also. Not really a big deal for me as I have a ton of them already. In it's defense, the spacers dont really help anyway, it really needs some new springs.
#747
I have 2 sets of the red springs and 60wt oil coming with mine. I am going to try that first and if it doesn't work go with the copper. I never liked the preload spacers in the shocks, they look like they will just pop out.
#748
Tech Rookie
I should be getting mine today. I have a hitec 7954mg laying around I am going to throw into it.
What bodies fit on this truck? It doesn't seem like many will. I am actually not usually a huge fan of the pickup bodies. But I suppose I may not have much options. For bashing, I sometimes like to run the bug bodies because it helps the cars roll back to it's feet.
At my shop, we have a short bus... wonder if that would fit
or the grave digger.
What bodies fit on this truck? It doesn't seem like many will. I am actually not usually a huge fan of the pickup bodies. But I suppose I may not have much options. For bashing, I sometimes like to run the bug bodies because it helps the cars roll back to it's feet.
At my shop, we have a short bus... wonder if that would fit
or the grave digger.
#749
Rival playing in the snow
good times!!!!
good times!!!!
#750
After running the NiMH I can see why everyone says get LiPO. I was lucky to get barely over 15 minutes on my first run on the stock batteries. I was thinking that I would get 5000mah to 6500mah and 35c to 50c LiPO's. Is 5000mah enough to get like a 30 minute run time? Is 35C enough or is it an equivalent punch to the stock batteries? Sorry for all the questions. NiCD was the big thing when I last ran RC's...LOL