6LikesOfficial Team Associated Rival Monster Truck Thread
08-21-2013, 07:37 PM
#601
Here are a couple of pics of my sons Rival. Only mods to it so far are Tmaxx aluminum ultra shocks w/ Associated red springs, velcro to hold the batteries, pro-line thumbscrew kit (no more body pins), and XT60 connectors on the esc.
Eventually I plan to get him a better esc and get him 4x 2s lipo packs.
Eventually I plan to get him a better esc and get him 4x 2s lipo packs.
08-23-2013, 09:43 PM
#602
Tech Apprentice
Would you guys say these are better than the Savage Flux??
08-24-2013, 11:19 AM
#604
Tech Initiate
It depends what you like:
- Rival is bigger than Savage (its even sligthly bigger than Savage XL)
- I think Rival handles way better than Savage
- I haven´t had any durability issues in my Rival, but neither have my friend in His Savage FLUX (so its a tie)
- It´s true that the stock Savage FLUX HP has way much power in stock than the Rival thank´s to its ability to take 6S lipos, when stock Rival can take only 4S. The stock Rival is way too undergeared too.
I think both of those are great trucks, so its up to you to decide what do you want to your truck.
- Rival is bigger than Savage (its even sligthly bigger than Savage XL)
- I think Rival handles way better than Savage
- I haven´t had any durability issues in my Rival, but neither have my friend in His Savage FLUX (so its a tie)
- It´s true that the stock Savage FLUX HP has way much power in stock than the Rival thank´s to its ability to take 6S lipos, when stock Rival can take only 4S. The stock Rival is way too undergeared too.
I think both of those are great trucks, so its up to you to decide what do you want to your truck.
08-24-2013, 04:46 PM
#605
Tech Rookie
test post....
08-24-2013, 04:55 PM
#606
Tech Rookie
Hello all,
I've been trying to post information regarding the drag link but whenever I do, I get a popup message that sais,,, "Your post will be posted,,,," And then it goes away before I can finish reading it... aggravating!!
I've been trying to post information regarding the drag link but whenever I do, I get a popup message that sais,,, "Your post will be posted,,,," And then it goes away before I can finish reading it... aggravating!!
08-24-2013, 05:25 PM
#608
Tech Rookie
Yes, but I wrote more information regarding the drag link and tried to post it here, with no luck. Maybe if I paste it into this message,,?
Will try...
(Sweeeet!! Looks like it worked this time, doing it this way...) (Edited after post)
Hi folks! Dude here....
First things first,,,,, Thanks to all that purchased the drag link!!
I did notice that a few had trouble with, or found that it didn't increase their steering so I wanted to post some details and suggestions.
I have read through the post on this forum and thought I would clear up a few things regarding the use of my drag link and to make sure you all are getting the most out of it.
The reason for the drag link design is driven from the fact that the steering ball link when mounted to the stock drag link interferes with the front differential when adjusting the throw on your transmitter to increase steering therefore limiting your steering adjustment. The TDR drag link is longer, (wider in this case), moving the steering ball link away from the differential allowing you to increase the throw adjustment on your transmitter.
Installing the TDR link means you must adjust the length of the ball links on the tierod shorter equal to the drag links offset mounting holes. This may require you to cut a bit off of each end of the tierod itself, although I know that some have not had to do this, but I did. When installed properly there should be no need to shim the ball link to eliminate bump steer, although you should check this to make sure you have none.
Once installed and bump steer and toe are checked/adjusted now you can adjust more throw on your transmitter without interference of the differential. What you want when you adjust your throw on your transmitter is for the steering link itself to be as close to your wheel rim as possible without the link interfering with anything for maximum steering.
If during all this you run out of throw adjustment on your transmitter you need to relocate your link at the servo horn to its outermost hole to maximize the total throw,,, (as you veterans already know, but I mentioned it for any new folks out there...)
Want even more steering,,? WHAAT?? EVEN MORE YOU SAY??? Yep,,,, read on.....
This mod does require, or at least I would suggest,, an upgraded servo with more torque if not the dual steering servo mod,,, up to you.
If you drill another hole on your steering knuckle control arm about 3/16in closer to the knuckle, cut the excess control arm off and mount your steering link there, readjust your toe, you can do rear wheel standing doughnut tornadoes..... Sweeeet!
You can see in the pic on the website that my steering knuckle is nearly parallel with the steering link. THIS is the most steering you can get from a mechanism like this. Far from the stock steering setup.
If anyone has any questions please feel free to email me at the address on the site or IM from here.
Also, for those folks new to my parts for the AE MGT family,,, my A-Arm Mounts will also be available soon.
Will try...
(Sweeeet!! Looks like it worked this time, doing it this way...) (Edited after post)
Hi folks! Dude here....
First things first,,,,, Thanks to all that purchased the drag link!!
I did notice that a few had trouble with, or found that it didn't increase their steering so I wanted to post some details and suggestions.
I have read through the post on this forum and thought I would clear up a few things regarding the use of my drag link and to make sure you all are getting the most out of it.
The reason for the drag link design is driven from the fact that the steering ball link when mounted to the stock drag link interferes with the front differential when adjusting the throw on your transmitter to increase steering therefore limiting your steering adjustment. The TDR drag link is longer, (wider in this case), moving the steering ball link away from the differential allowing you to increase the throw adjustment on your transmitter.
Installing the TDR link means you must adjust the length of the ball links on the tierod shorter equal to the drag links offset mounting holes. This may require you to cut a bit off of each end of the tierod itself, although I know that some have not had to do this, but I did. When installed properly there should be no need to shim the ball link to eliminate bump steer, although you should check this to make sure you have none.
Once installed and bump steer and toe are checked/adjusted now you can adjust more throw on your transmitter without interference of the differential. What you want when you adjust your throw on your transmitter is for the steering link itself to be as close to your wheel rim as possible without the link interfering with anything for maximum steering.
If during all this you run out of throw adjustment on your transmitter you need to relocate your link at the servo horn to its outermost hole to maximize the total throw,,, (as you veterans already know, but I mentioned it for any new folks out there...)
Want even more steering,,? WHAAT?? EVEN MORE YOU SAY??? Yep,,,, read on.....
This mod does require, or at least I would suggest,, an upgraded servo with more torque if not the dual steering servo mod,,, up to you.
If you drill another hole on your steering knuckle control arm about 3/16in closer to the knuckle, cut the excess control arm off and mount your steering link there, readjust your toe, you can do rear wheel standing doughnut tornadoes..... Sweeeet!
You can see in the pic on the website that my steering knuckle is nearly parallel with the steering link. THIS is the most steering you can get from a mechanism like this. Far from the stock steering setup.
If anyone has any questions please feel free to email me at the address on the site or IM from here.
Also, for those folks new to my parts for the AE MGT family,,, my A-Arm Mounts will also be available soon.
08-27-2013, 12:32 PM
#610
Some pics of my MGT .21 converted to a Rival.
motor - Castle 1515 2200kv and esc - MMM, stolen from my brushless emaxx
tires - Pro-line moabs, wheels - I don't remember
body - Pro-line Ford F150 for MGT, it's a little short with the Rivals longer chassis
shocks - Tmaxx ultra aluminum shocks with Associated red/copper springs on each corner
I haven't ran it yet, just finished setting up the electronics the other day.
motor - Castle 1515 2200kv and esc - MMM, stolen from my brushless emaxx
tires - Pro-line moabs, wheels - I don't remember
body - Pro-line Ford F150 for MGT, it's a little short with the Rivals longer chassis
shocks - Tmaxx ultra aluminum shocks with Associated red/copper springs on each corner
I haven't ran it yet, just finished setting up the electronics the other day.
Last edited by FlailinMonkey; 08-27-2013 at 03:17 PM.
08-28-2013, 12:49 PM
#612
Last edited by MattP; 08-28-2013 at 01:41 PM.
08-29-2013, 05:23 PM
#613
Tech Rookie
Some love for the Rival.
08-30-2013, 10:13 AM
#614
Truck needs to go!
Would sell without wheels for just $350 shipped!
08-30-2013, 11:56 AM
#615
I'm done and pissed it hasn't sold.
First $325 takes the truck shipped or $375 with the $140 wheel tire combo.....
If you want it send me a pm for my Paypal address. I just want it gone now.
Trakpower tk950 soldering station. $50 shipped
Triton 2eq ac/DC lipo balance charger. $70
Mmm/2200 combo $140
First $325 takes the truck shipped or $375 with the $140 wheel tire combo.....
If you want it send me a pm for my Paypal address. I just want it gone now.
Trakpower tk950 soldering station. $50 shipped
Triton 2eq ac/DC lipo balance charger. $70
Mmm/2200 combo $140