T/E Maxx Thread
#332
Suspended
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 83
From: Earth
Originally posted by fireblade
For about $50 a motor, try a fantom 19t. Awsome motor and can be geared up high and take LOTS of abuse. There about as fast as a mod
For about $50 a motor, try a fantom 19t. Awsome motor and can be geared up high and take LOTS of abuse. There about as fast as a mod
I will buy more hopup parts with what I save.
#334
Suspended
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 83
From: Earth
Originally posted by fireblade
Ok, I am buying a E-Maxx. I have a Hitec Lynx FM radio, is there any way i can operate the 3rd channel trannmission with that? And what will be some good hopup parts.
Ok, I am buying a E-Maxx. I have a Hitec Lynx FM radio, is there any way i can operate the 3rd channel trannmission with that? And what will be some good hopup parts.
Why change the radio? The E-Maxx comes with a perfectly good radio system already, besides I don't think the Hitec radio will do what you want it to.If you are insistant on another radio try the MX3 by Airtronics.
I would save my money for hopups that improve the durability of the truck.
#336
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 78
There's really nothing wrong with the TQ radio 27mhz radio. The system is designed for the application and it works. Aside from personal bias there's no reason anyone 'can't' race with that radio.
But never the less. If you are insistant, the only FM radio that has a third channel "switch" is the new JR XR3i. FM 4 model memory.
It has the "up/down" thumb switch that is needed to shift the transmission servo. All other current radios have perportional "stepper" third channels and do not have the ability to switch lock to lock instantly.
link: http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/prod...prod=JRP334275
But never the less. If you are insistant, the only FM radio that has a third channel "switch" is the new JR XR3i. FM 4 model memory.
It has the "up/down" thumb switch that is needed to shift the transmission servo. All other current radios have perportional "stepper" third channels and do not have the ability to switch lock to lock instantly.
link: http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/prod...prod=JRP334275
#337
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 78
For what it's worth, as for the "motors" issue. I don't doubt Mr. may be using stock motors in the Maxx but I don't think it's just as simple as putting in .05's in place of 550's.
"MY PERSONAL EXPERIANCE" with using P2K's and Orion Chrome Stock's has been that when hit with 14 volts to each motor they go increadibly fast for a couple minuets, then they usually throw a wind. I've epoxied the windings and gotten a little longer life from them but they still fail within a short time.
I did find that if you run the EVX on 14 cells in series and then series 2 stock motors using only one of the pairs of motor leads from the ESC you get around 8.4 volts to each motor, which is plenty to spin a pair of stockers yet still keep the input to them at a reasonable level. Gear them at around 15/70 and the truck will be noticably faster than with the stock Titan motors. And the .05's will last quite a while.
or you could just put a single brushless in there and forget about brushes, comm's, lathes,etc.
"MY PERSONAL EXPERIANCE" with using P2K's and Orion Chrome Stock's has been that when hit with 14 volts to each motor they go increadibly fast for a couple minuets, then they usually throw a wind. I've epoxied the windings and gotten a little longer life from them but they still fail within a short time.
I did find that if you run the EVX on 14 cells in series and then series 2 stock motors using only one of the pairs of motor leads from the ESC you get around 8.4 volts to each motor, which is plenty to spin a pair of stockers yet still keep the input to them at a reasonable level. Gear them at around 15/70 and the truck will be noticably faster than with the stock Titan motors. And the .05's will last quite a while.
or you could just put a single brushless in there and forget about brushes, comm's, lathes,etc.
#338
Suspended
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 83
From: Earth
Boy pinky you must really be hard on your truck, We have 3 of these E-Maxx trucks and have had no thrown winds yet.
We beat the Hell out of them and they just keep running, we tried some of the Badd Maxx motors from Reedy but they wore out the comms really fast and my lathe won't turn that big of an armature blank, Only 540's so we use them.
One thing I found was you need to cut the comms more often on the 540's seeing as the motors are taking so much juice if the brushes overheat then the motor will fry.
And Brushless is so expensive right now that I don't see that in my future any time soon.
fireblade
As for the radio issue I think if you need dual rate on a monster truck for steering you are doing something wrong, Everyone I know says the Maxx needs more steering not less, I run a 130 oz,in servo in mine. It steers ok but could use more.
Fm would be nice but too expensive again.
We beat the Hell out of them and they just keep running, we tried some of the Badd Maxx motors from Reedy but they wore out the comms really fast and my lathe won't turn that big of an armature blank, Only 540's so we use them.
One thing I found was you need to cut the comms more often on the 540's seeing as the motors are taking so much juice if the brushes overheat then the motor will fry.
And Brushless is so expensive right now that I don't see that in my future any time soon.
fireblade
As for the radio issue I think if you need dual rate on a monster truck for steering you are doing something wrong, Everyone I know says the Maxx needs more steering not less, I run a 130 oz,in servo in mine. It steers ok but could use more.
Fm would be nice but too expensive again.
#339
Mr. R/c- If you put your motors in series like pinky said, lets say "D5's" then the motors will not be taking up so much juice and will hold up. The FM radio thing, steering is done with 2 things, throttle and wheel. Mabe try hitting the gas on the corner to get the ass end to slide out a little more, increase the toe a little more so the truck will "Stick" to the track. Or Increase the toe or try ackerman. You need dual rate on any car for different types of tracks. Also you CANT race on most tracks without a FM radio because AM glitches too much plus, FM has more channels.
Hope that helps.
o and BTW- Try to go to the outer hole on the maxx's suspension this will make the tire be pushed more down to the ground, creating more friction in the rear. And for a little more sterring "Let off".
Hope that helps.
o and BTW- Try to go to the outer hole on the maxx's suspension this will make the tire be pushed more down to the ground, creating more friction in the rear. And for a little more sterring "Let off".
Last edited by fireblade; 12-17-2002 at 11:59 PM.
#340
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 78
Actually I race my truck at a rather high level. Up untill the outdoor track closed I was running my E-Maxx in the open monster truck class. (the only electric, by the way)
I ran it head to head with T-Maxx .21 conversions, Monster Pirates, Dominator and the odd Mad Force. I had no trouble lapping the field 3 times over 10 minuets. It takes about 35 seconds to change battery packs and get back out of the pits. If anyone is really serious about racing the E-Maxx then brushless is the only way to go. There is no brushed system to date that will run with nitro powered Monster Trucks for a full 10 minuets on 3000's with no maintenance on the motor for thousands of hours. If you think brushless is so high add up P2k's at even $20 a pop and 2 pairs of brushes at a time for say 2-3 months.
Setup is more a factor than anything else. My truck uses a Hitec 525 mg servo for steering and has much too much steering most of the time. I have very near the same turning radius that a XXXt has. I have the ProLine suspension package. I have found that if you run this kit you need to cut off the outer rear shock mounting block or the steering link will hit it and bind at about half lock when the suspension is compressed. My steering actually turns enough for the inner side wall of the tire to rub on the leading edge of the upper suspension arm on hard cornering.
I DO dial out quite a bit of steering.
I ran it head to head with T-Maxx .21 conversions, Monster Pirates, Dominator and the odd Mad Force. I had no trouble lapping the field 3 times over 10 minuets. It takes about 35 seconds to change battery packs and get back out of the pits. If anyone is really serious about racing the E-Maxx then brushless is the only way to go. There is no brushed system to date that will run with nitro powered Monster Trucks for a full 10 minuets on 3000's with no maintenance on the motor for thousands of hours. If you think brushless is so high add up P2k's at even $20 a pop and 2 pairs of brushes at a time for say 2-3 months.
Setup is more a factor than anything else. My truck uses a Hitec 525 mg servo for steering and has much too much steering most of the time. I have very near the same turning radius that a XXXt has. I have the ProLine suspension package. I have found that if you run this kit you need to cut off the outer rear shock mounting block or the steering link will hit it and bind at about half lock when the suspension is compressed. My steering actually turns enough for the inner side wall of the tire to rub on the leading edge of the upper suspension arm on hard cornering.
I DO dial out quite a bit of steering.
#343
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 78
You really should check the application of those transmitters first before buying based on questionable info.
The XR3 does have 3 channels but the "aux" channel is a "stepped" perportional control. What this means is when you press the switch up or down you much hold the switch for a long time as it "count's" one digit at a time. NOT suited for shifting the E-Maxx tranny. The XR3i's third channel is an instant up down switch. Works the same as the Traxxas TQ's third channel.
Of course it depends on your application anyway. If you are going to be racing the Maxx then you don't need the third channel anyway. You just strip out all the low gear parts from the tranny and remove the shift servo and run the truck in high only. Low range is pretty much for bashing only. So any good 2 channel transmitter works fine.
The XR3 does have 3 channels but the "aux" channel is a "stepped" perportional control. What this means is when you press the switch up or down you much hold the switch for a long time as it "count's" one digit at a time. NOT suited for shifting the E-Maxx tranny. The XR3i's third channel is an instant up down switch. Works the same as the Traxxas TQ's third channel.
Of course it depends on your application anyway. If you are going to be racing the Maxx then you don't need the third channel anyway. You just strip out all the low gear parts from the tranny and remove the shift servo and run the truck in high only. Low range is pretty much for bashing only. So any good 2 channel transmitter works fine.
Last edited by Pinky; 12-18-2002 at 07:02 PM.
#345
The XR3 can be used by the T & E maxx. I have seen people use them and this is the way how to do it. http://www.maxxtraxx.com/tech/tech032.shtml


