T/E Maxx Thread
#181
Originally posted by Anthrocide
is it worth upgrading my stock chassis to a dynamite chassis. i could get it for cheap. waht other upgrades can i do to help my car out. so far skidplates, lower chassis braces, rpm arms, new springs, aluminum bulkheads front only, mip cvds all around, dynamite pipe, titanium turnbuckles, what else should i upgrade?
is it worth upgrading my stock chassis to a dynamite chassis. i could get it for cheap. waht other upgrades can i do to help my car out. so far skidplates, lower chassis braces, rpm arms, new springs, aluminum bulkheads front only, mip cvds all around, dynamite pipe, titanium turnbuckles, what else should i upgrade?
#183
Anyone
Help, I need some aluminum bumpers for
this monster. The stock bumpers
s*&k, Trinity blue bumpers don't cut
it, I need some
orange ,
orred aluminum
bumpers for this beast.
Every time I look at it, it says "help
me"
Help, I need some aluminum bumpers for
this monster. The stock bumpers
s*&k, Trinity blue bumpers don't cut
it, I need some
orange ,
orred aluminum
bumpers for this beast.
Every time I look at it, it says "help
me"
#184
CoastalTony: You're right that thing does look Sweet, I haven't found any orange or red bumpers of any kind or any material from plastic to titanium, mostly either silver/chrome or blue!!!! I will definately be on the look out & let you know if I find anything!!!!
Anthrocide: One more thing I forgot to mention, that is if you race off-road anyways pick up a good set of Rubber Sealed Bearings (they are about the best you can get for offroad, no gritty feeling from dirt getting into them!!!), you can get a good set from www.teambluestar.com , but I would mention to you to try & win them off of ebay, much cheaper that way!!!!!
Anthrocide: One more thing I forgot to mention, that is if you race off-road anyways pick up a good set of Rubber Sealed Bearings (they are about the best you can get for offroad, no gritty feeling from dirt getting into them!!!), you can get a good set from www.teambluestar.com , but I would mention to you to try & win them off of ebay, much cheaper that way!!!!!
#185
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 62
From: San Jose
this is my onroad t-maxx. i have the rad rc 3 speed in it right and runninng 1/8 scale tires. what tips could you give me? i have sway bars, the bell cranks you mentions but no upgraded shock plan on getting some soon, and a high torque steering servo.
#186
Anthro
Read back into the thread
The Pro-Line suspension kit, tires,
and good shocks are the key.
I have a spare set of AE blue shocks
if you want them.
I also have a set of pre-mounted
slicks for sale:
Read back into the thread
The Pro-Line suspension kit, tires,
and good shocks are the key.
I have a spare set of AE blue shocks
if you want them.
I also have a set of pre-mounted
slicks for sale:
#187
I'm getting the traxxas forward only shaft but what improvements do you notice? I'm going to race it (as soon as I upgrade my engine) so will the forward only conversion make my lap times go down.
At this moment my LHS is fitting a hotbodies .18 into my T (crank cutting, flywheel etc) I chose the .18 because it's half way between a .15 and a .21 and doesn't require a conversion or different chassis
, anyone else tried the HB .18?
I will be racing on grass (short) with very few jumps but plenty of corners, what should I change about my setup, ride height, oil .....
thanx
At this moment my LHS is fitting a hotbodies .18 into my T (crank cutting, flywheel etc) I chose the .18 because it's half way between a .15 and a .21 and doesn't require a conversion or different chassis
, anyone else tried the HB .18?I will be racing on grass (short) with very few jumps but plenty of corners, what should I change about my setup, ride height, oil .....
thanx
#188
LouisB:it will be plent of extra punch as all the centrifical force will be going forward only at all times, not to mention the extra weight you will lose when pulling out all those uneeded gears from the tranny!!!! You should use some heavy weight shock oil, not too heavy if you have jumps though other wise you will be bouncin' like Tigger
!!! Get some better shocks as well if you can afford it!!!! Also a Pro-Line suspension kit a MUST HAVE!!!!!!!!!
!!! Get some better shocks as well if you can afford it!!!! Also a Pro-Line suspension kit a MUST HAVE!!!!!!!!!
#189
Thanks,
I've just spent loads on spares, engine, fuel etc etc etc and don't have much left at present. I have put metal shock caps on and have big bore shocks from my now retired electric rustler. I have some 70wt oil from tc racing and it shold be OK, there's usually only 1 jump (small) and a rumble strip. I have trinity stiff springs.
Do you think that the stock shafts would survive the power of a .18 and te Maxx Performance kit? or should I use CVDs
I've just spent loads on spares, engine, fuel etc etc etc and don't have much left at present. I have put metal shock caps on and have big bore shocks from my now retired electric rustler. I have some 70wt oil from tc racing and it shold be OK, there's usually only 1 jump (small) and a rumble strip. I have trinity stiff springs.
Do you think that the stock shafts would survive the power of a .18 and te Maxx Performance kit? or should I use CVDs
#190
LouisB: The Big Bores should be just fine with the Pro-Line suspension kit!!!! As for the CVD's I recommend but you might be able to get my with stock for now, check out Dynamite they have set of cheaper CVD's than MIP, that should be just as good also they have CVD's for the Driveshafts for the same price $37.99 versus $55.00 from MIP, just go to www.horizonhobby.com & for name brand put in Dynamite then Nitro truck & car & search through there, it's in there some where!!!!!!
#191
I'll go for low ground clearence to stop rollovers on the high grip grass tracks because the stocktires really dig in, do you think that proline road tires would work on grass to give more predictable handling?
There's a good UK (where I live) company that sells T-Maxx hop ups and they have drive shafts for £25, that's $39 (without the expensive shipping)
They are universals, not cvds but look pretty strong.
Check them out at www.cmldistribution.co.uk/fast_trax.htm
There's a good UK (where I live) company that sells T-Maxx hop ups and they have drive shafts for £25, that's $39 (without the expensive shipping)
They are universals, not cvds but look pretty strong.
Check them out at www.cmldistribution.co.uk/fast_trax.htm
#192
LouisB: The Pro-line suspension kit will most definately give you low ground clearance with better handling, it makes your truck an inch to an inch & a half wider for better handling, not to mention it also comes with Lunsford Titanium tie rods!!!! As for the Pro-line road rages they should work if it is a high bite track!!!!!
#193
New Jack: would the dynamite driveshafts work with the Pro-line kit, i thought that the shafts had to be a different length
and only MIP made the right ones?
What type of rechargable receiver pack should I get, 3x2 or 5 in a row and which company makes the best ones?
I'll tell you how my Maxx goes once I've got it back and broken in the engine
and only MIP made the right ones? What type of rechargable receiver pack should I get, 3x2 or 5 in a row and which company makes the best ones?
I'll tell you how my Maxx goes once I've got it back and broken in the engine
#195
LouisB: As far as the technical On-road T-Maxx, I would say Coastal Tony is your Advice man, I have mine set up for off-road racing!!!! I'm not sure but Sway bars me even work
Also I'm not sure about the Dynamite driveshafts, I'm glad you asked!! I will contact them & find out!!!!!
Also I'm not sure about the Dynamite driveshafts, I'm glad you asked!! I will contact them & find out!!!!!



