T/E Maxx Thread
#196
I got my Maxx back yesterday, with the new engine and forward only shaft
I followed my LHS owner's break-in instructions (he has the same engine in his T-Maxx). Started up on the first pull, 8 half tanks stationary and another 8 half tanks on pavement, it stayed sooooooooo cool
after half a tank that I kept on going, it never stalled!
I spent a couple more tanks setting the 2 speed and then had some fun. The HB is a really good choice for a maxx, with the forward only shaft and .18 torque it accelerated like a rocket, it is also really easy to tune and works fine between 4 and 3 turns out on the carb.
The best test was a grassy bank by my house, 8' high and this steep (see diagram on right) /
it's even hard for me to get up. with the stock engine it would make part of the way up with a long run up. With the new engine I took it up to the bank with the front wheels just touching the face, nailed the throttle and it flew right up to the top, no complaining
My drive shafts have held together fine, i'll wait 'til i break one
If you need a new engine for your T-maxx get a Hot Bodies .18
I followed my LHS owner's break-in instructions (he has the same engine in his T-Maxx). Started up on the first pull, 8 half tanks stationary and another 8 half tanks on pavement, it stayed sooooooooo cool
after half a tank that I kept on going, it never stalled!I spent a couple more tanks setting the 2 speed and then had some fun. The HB is a really good choice for a maxx, with the forward only shaft and .18 torque it accelerated like a rocket, it is also really easy to tune and works fine between 4 and 3 turns out on the carb.
The best test was a grassy bank by my house, 8' high and this steep (see diagram on right) /
it's even hard for me to get up. with the stock engine it would make part of the way up with a long run up. With the new engine I took it up to the bank with the front wheels just touching the face, nailed the throttle and it flew right up to the top, no complaining
My drive shafts have held together fine, i'll wait 'til i break one
If you need a new engine for your T-maxx get a Hot Bodies .18
#197
LouisB...the 3x2 pack fits perfectly in the stock battery box with no mods...i would go with a competition products 1100mah battery and if you go that far save yourself some heartache and get a new ON-OFF switch with a charge plug on it so you can charge the batt without having to take it out...i have this setup on my MAXX and works flawlessly
#198
Thanks myclod, i'll get a 3x2, but probably from a different company because competition products don't have a distributor where i live. I already have a futaba switch with charging jack
What servo are you using? I haven't changed mine yet (I know I should) but I've been using a Hi tech 625 in my RC10B3 with good results and was wondering if the 645 would be good in my T-Maxx
What servo are you using? I haven't changed mine yet (I know I should) but I've been using a Hi tech 625 in my RC10B3 with good results and was wondering if the 645 would be good in my T-Maxx
#199
the 625 or 645 work VERY well in the TMAXX, with the stock servo sitting still you can hardly turn the wheels with the hitec they SNAP to the left and right...in my opinion...EXCELLENT choice for the TMAXX either way you go.
#200
I think I'll get a 645 next time I go to my LHS, and a battery pack
What charger should I use for the receiver pack, overnight wall charger? I have an adjustable amp rate charger for electric racing and it can charge down to 0.5 A, also what is a good peak voltage cut-off (in mV for the entire pack) and amp rate for a 1100?
Thanks
What charger should I use for the receiver pack, overnight wall charger? I have an adjustable amp rate charger for electric racing and it can charge down to 0.5 A, also what is a good peak voltage cut-off (in mV for the entire pack) and amp rate for a 1100?
Thanks
#201
Louis
Most chargers will work fine if the
amp setting is around .75, or .8
Let me know what your shop charges for
a Hitec 645 & 1100 NiMH receiver pack?
I have a NEW 645, and an Orion 1100
receiver pack, and can save you some
$$.
Most chargers will work fine if the
amp setting is around .75, or .8
Let me know what your shop charges for
a Hitec 645 & 1100 NiMH receiver pack?
I have a NEW 645, and an Orion 1100
receiver pack, and can save you some
$$.
#202
Thanks costaltony
It may be a bit of a hassle sending the servo and battery because I live in the UK
The servo is £35, $54!!! and I don't know about the pack.
The postage would be expensive but thanks anyway
Gotta go racing (of the T-Maxx variety
)
It may be a bit of a hassle sending the servo and battery because I live in the UK
The servo is £35, $54!!! and I don't know about the pack.
The postage would be expensive but thanks anyway
Gotta go racing (of the T-Maxx variety
)
#203
Louis
"DuhOO"
Maybe I can train a pair of homing
pidgions, give em the servo & your
street address, and they can fly it
over. One can take a rest while the
other conyinues, and go back and forth
till they find you. "yeah right"
How is the truck running?
"DuhOO"
Maybe I can train a pair of homing
pidgions, give em the servo & your
street address, and they can fly it
over. One can take a rest while the
other conyinues, and go back and forth
till they find you. "yeah right"
How is the truck running?
#204
I think you'd need more than a pair of pigeons to get over here, more like a flock
Racing was great fun. Qualifying was smooth and I didn't crash in all three rounds (but spent some time on 2 wheels)
I qualified in the middle of the B final (ahead of some good racing trucks) Everyone was really impressed with the speed of it, If I'd been 20 seconds faster I would have made the A
I had 13 laps and the top of the A was on 15. The A was made up of XXX-NTs and GTs with some really expensive engines but I just about kept up with them down the straight! (they were most suprised when they picked it up after and found that it was twice as heavy as their racing trucks)
The B final was 15mins and I had a good start but was up against tough competition and as 4wd cars score no championship points
I had to let others through.
I had some problems because hte engine was too lean for the main and stalled half way through which cost lots of time, During the pit stop I turned it out about 5 clicks, no probs
I beat 2 rushes, lapped a Maxx (twice) and was pretty close to a XXX-NT with a Novarossi engine
The engine is now perfectly tuned and ready for the next race (and pre-race bashing)
Everyone said that it was the best a T-Maxx had ever done in a race
Racing was great fun. Qualifying was smooth and I didn't crash in all three rounds (but spent some time on 2 wheels)
I qualified in the middle of the B final (ahead of some good racing trucks) Everyone was really impressed with the speed of it, If I'd been 20 seconds faster I would have made the A
I had 13 laps and the top of the A was on 15. The A was made up of XXX-NTs and GTs with some really expensive engines but I just about kept up with them down the straight! (they were most suprised when they picked it up after and found that it was twice as heavy as their racing trucks)The B final was 15mins and I had a good start but was up against tough competition and as 4wd cars score no championship points
I had to let others through. I had some problems because hte engine was too lean for the main and stalled half way through which cost lots of time, During the pit stop I turned it out about 5 clicks, no probs
I beat 2 rushes, lapped a Maxx (twice) and was pretty close to a XXX-NT with a Novarossi engine
The engine is now perfectly tuned and ready for the next race (and pre-race bashing)
Everyone said that it was the best a T-Maxx had ever done in a race
#205
LouisB:Sounds like you've got that T-Maxx Flying
!!! I was gonna put a .21 O.S. pullstart engine it mine, but that people that I would race against around here would complain, because they all have the stock .14 TRX engine in thiers
, so I will be putting in a .15 O.S. Pullstart that still makes way more power than their engines (O.S. .15 CV-XR)!!!! I am still modifying my T-Maxx & my MP 7.5 right now so it may be another 2 months before it's complete!!!
CoastalTony: Are you anywhere near that Minnreg track in FL??? I've seen a bunch of Pics in Mags. of that track, that place is nice, one guy I race against here who currently resides here by way of Military says that's his home track & it is Extremely Plush!!!! The best tracks around here are in Dallas & that is 2.5 hrs away, but I still make the trip!!!!!
!!! I was gonna put a .21 O.S. pullstart engine it mine, but that people that I would race against around here would complain, because they all have the stock .14 TRX engine in thiers
, so I will be putting in a .15 O.S. Pullstart that still makes way more power than their engines (O.S. .15 CV-XR)!!!! I am still modifying my T-Maxx & my MP 7.5 right now so it may be another 2 months before it's complete!!!
CoastalTony: Are you anywhere near that Minnreg track in FL??? I've seen a bunch of Pics in Mags. of that track, that place is nice, one guy I race against here who currently resides here by way of Military says that's his home track & it is Extremely Plush!!!! The best tracks around here are in Dallas & that is 2.5 hrs away, but I still make the trip!!!!!
#207
New Jack It does fly
you could say it flies like a pigeon
especially when I take it off a custom jump at full speed
The main difference with the .18 is the low end torque, it can climb up anything if you hit it with enough speed otherwise it rolls over backwards
I live on a small island so there aren't any really good tracks but my club has taken over a BMX track for electric off-road so we have a good surface and lots of BIG jumps
(but not as good as Minnreg) and race nitro on short grass at several places.
you could say it flies like a pigeon
especially when I take it off a custom jump at full speed
The main difference with the .18 is the low end torque, it can climb up anything if you hit it with enough speed otherwise it rolls over backwards
I live on a small island so there aren't any really good tracks but my club has taken over a BMX track for electric off-road so we have a good surface and lots of BIG jumps
(but not as good as Minnreg) and race nitro on short grass at several places.
#208
LouisB: Yeah, I know what you mean about a BMX track, we have one here in my town, but I'd be to afraid to jump it with any of my R/C vechicles!!!! Some of the Jumps are extremely high & even if you landed just right, it would still do a Major job at compressing your shocks!!!
#209
I like the BMX track, I race my factory team B3 in the mod buggy class and at the moment I'm leading the championship. I've taken my T-Maxx down a couple of times but the stock tires really don't hook up at all but the jumps are great. There are less big jumps than there used to be theres a big straight, doubles, a table-top, sweeper and quite a few big jumps. It makes racing exciting and control off the jumps is very important. The trouble is that it is marked out by car tires dug into the ground which are not forgiving to my poor front suspension arms
#210
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,385
From: NW Indiana
Well, not really a "new guy" just new here. I have been a r/c "racer" for 10 years now and decided this month that I would retire from racing. I sold all of my racing stuff and bought myself a T-Maxx. My main goal was to take some time off of racing, but I must say, I say some guys racing at a local track with T-Maxx's and now it's time to hit the dirt. Keep up your great thread and I will start getting to know you guys.
Jon
Jon



