7772LikesKyosho Mini-Z Series
12-27-2018, 03:19 PM
#2686
Tech Prophet
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Billy, just a couple of questions. What pinion and spur are you running? Is there any backlash at all between the gears? Is this the FWD car or another? Are you using bearings or bushings in which the motor pod? When was the last time you pulled the rear axle out and cleaned the hair accumulation from around the axle? What transmitter are you using? You may have covered this but I must have missed it.
I didn’t do it in this video. But of my 7 cars it’s the only one that does it. Steering works fine when it happens.
12-27-2018, 03:52 PM
#2687
Are you sure you didn't tighten the left wheel nut too hard?
12-27-2018, 04:04 PM
#2688
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I’m actually not sure if I’ve ever pulled the LR wheel off the car. . With the stock motor, like the others it would or could roll the length on my straight. From day 1 with the PN, it’s had zero roll. It’s slightly better now on the smooth side. But nothing like the other 2 MR03 I have.
I’ll try to get a problem video tonight. Between this one and the FWD climbing the rail, should not be too hard.
Overall I’ve come to like this scale. I avoided it for 7 years. These are just a couple of things that have been fustrating. Motors are cheap. For $14 I could give another PN a try. Might be completely different. I’d just like for the PN to be the only option. Which right now it is. Especially with stock replacements being out of stock everywhere. And been that way for awhile.
I’ll try to get a problem video tonight. Between this one and the FWD climbing the rail, should not be too hard.
Overall I’ve come to like this scale. I avoided it for 7 years. These are just a couple of things that have been fustrating. Motors are cheap. For $14 I could give another PN a try. Might be completely different. I’d just like for the PN to be the only option. Which right now it is. Especially with stock replacements being out of stock everywhere. And been that way for awhile.
12-27-2018, 04:26 PM
#2689
Still would like to know; pinion backlash, last time all the wheels were pulled and checked for hair and other debris wrapped around the front spindles and rear axle, last time the motor had the proper motor cleaner administered, what lube you are using on the motor bushing's or bearings, how frequently, Comm drops, thermal breaker? There are a couple of other things but lets start with clear answers on what I've asked so far. Please.
12-27-2018, 04:37 PM
#2690
Tech Adept
Still would like to know; pinion backlash, last time all the wheels were pulled and checked for hair and other debris wrapped around the front spindles and rear axle, last time the motor had the proper motor cleaner administered, what lube you are using on the motor bushing's or bearings, how frequently, Comm drops, thermal breaker? There are a couple of other things but lets start with clear answers on what I've asked so far. Please.
12-27-2018, 04:49 PM
#2691
If he is running the 7t with appropriate shims, the gear mesh would be closer to too loose rather than tight.
pull the diff, check for hair around the axle. Try cleaning the motor. A clean motor is a happy motor, I cannot understate that enough. I can't tell you how many people that I have raced with have had issues due to a dirty motor. The open endbell design of the PN motor keeps things cooler, but allows more debris in. On the plus side, it makes cleaning much easier as well.
I haven't run into issues where the motor would delay on a brushed car unless the motor had many miles on it and wasn't clean. I've even run the brushes entirely off the motors over a few years of constant use. With the age of the motor in question, I would not suspect that the wear would be an issue since it is relatively new. But, how often is it cleaned? A dirty motor will wear considerably faster than a clean one. If the comm has pitted, or brushes torn due to debris, this could be related...
you can pull the brushes without desoldering the motor wires off, it's just easier if you do.
the rear left wheel, I always sand the adapter where it touches the motor mount bearing about .2mm. You can use trial and error, just sanding then placing on the axle while in the mount and see if there is any lateral movement. You stop as soon as you see movement with the adapter fully seated. This allows you to tighten down the left wheel fully and still have a little shake in the axle which is necessary when heat builds in the bearings. You want just enough play that the diff will move laterally, no more no less. This ensures no added resistance from tightening the wheel nut too much, and takes the variable out when doing a wheel change.
pull the diff, check for hair around the axle. Try cleaning the motor. A clean motor is a happy motor, I cannot understate that enough. I can't tell you how many people that I have raced with have had issues due to a dirty motor. The open endbell design of the PN motor keeps things cooler, but allows more debris in. On the plus side, it makes cleaning much easier as well.
I haven't run into issues where the motor would delay on a brushed car unless the motor had many miles on it and wasn't clean. I've even run the brushes entirely off the motors over a few years of constant use. With the age of the motor in question, I would not suspect that the wear would be an issue since it is relatively new. But, how often is it cleaned? A dirty motor will wear considerably faster than a clean one. If the comm has pitted, or brushes torn due to debris, this could be related...
you can pull the brushes without desoldering the motor wires off, it's just easier if you do.
the rear left wheel, I always sand the adapter where it touches the motor mount bearing about .2mm. You can use trial and error, just sanding then placing on the axle while in the mount and see if there is any lateral movement. You stop as soon as you see movement with the adapter fully seated. This allows you to tighten down the left wheel fully and still have a little shake in the axle which is necessary when heat builds in the bearings. You want just enough play that the diff will move laterally, no more no less. This ensures no added resistance from tightening the wheel nut too much, and takes the variable out when doing a wheel change.
12-27-2018, 04:58 PM
#2692
Tech Prophet
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Still would like to know; pinion backlash, last time all the wheels were pulled and checked for hair and other debris wrapped around the front spindles and rear axle, last time the motor had the proper motor cleaner administered, what lube you are using on the motor bushing's or bearings, how frequently, Comm drops, thermal breaker? There are a couple of other things but lets start with clear answers on what I've asked so far. Please.
Ok. There is no adjustments for pinion. It’s the mounts only. Originally that’s what I though it was. It ran and sounded like gear mesh was too tight.
Never have lubed motor, on any of my cars. No matter the scale.
It came with bearing, only one of mine has bushings. Usually once a month I’ll give cars a blast with an air compressor. Treated all cars the same.
12-27-2018, 05:35 PM
#2693
A 70T is fairly high maintenance. A blast(spritz) of motor spray with each battery pack is highly recommended along with a drop of very high grade oil(Remington gun oil) with every run is recommended as well. There is a pinion adjustment. It is done with the supplied spacers. One set for 6 another for 7-8 and another for 9. They must be properly installed of you will get a bind. Personally I would drop back to the 6T for that track so as to reduce the motor load off the corners in the twisty bits. Pull all the wheels and the rear axle out and check for debris. pick up an inexpensive jewelers loupe and a bright light. Look into the motor. You will be astonished with what you find. Cars at this scale have higher maintenance needs than their larger scale cousins. A single grain of sand or grit is like a boulder to one of these cars. Do some maintenance as outlined above and see if things improve
12-27-2018, 06:37 PM
#2694
When I first started running the 70T motor I experienced a lot of drag brake as well. Over time it seems to have gotten much less though. I know you put a lot of miles on your car so it should be fairly well broken in my now. One thing I will strongly suggest is following mleemor’s suggestion with the motor spray and Bachman motor lube. Between the elixirs and playing with the gear mesh my motor is SO much better then it was originally....it is like a totally different motor.
Cheers,
Jim
Cheers,
Jim
12-27-2018, 07:08 PM
#2695
When I first started running the 70T motor I experienced a lot of drag brake as well. Over time it seems to have gotten much less though. I know you put a lot of miles on your car so it should be fairly well broken in my now. One thing I will strongly suggest is following mleemor’s suggestion with the motor spray and Bachman motor lube. Between the elixirs and playing with the gear mesh my motor is SO much better then it was originally....it is like a totally different motor.
Cheers,
Jim
Cheers,
Jim
12-28-2018, 08:25 AM
#2696
Tech Prophet
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I’ll look into the suggestions. I’d wondered about motor lube. But hadn’t really seen much mentioned about it. I did go a head and ordered another PN motor. I’ll keep it as a spare for now. Or maybe I’ll try it as a comparison. I’d still really like to see the stock motor become available. I still see this as a red flag for Kyosho.
12-28-2018, 11:19 AM
#2697
I’ll look into the suggestions. I’d wondered about motor lube. But hadn’t really seen much mentioned about it. I did go a head and ordered another PN motor. I’ll keep it as a spare for now. Or maybe I’ll try it as a comparison. I’d still really like to see the stock motor become available. I still see this as a red flag for Kyosho.
Motor Set(MR-03EVO) MZ9E - December 2018 - NEW ITEM - KYOSHO RC
XSPEED MINI-Z MOTOR-V (MR-03EVO) MZW301E - December 2018 - NEW ITEM - KYOSHO RC
12-28-2018, 11:30 AM
#2698
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Far south suburbs of Chicago area
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Kyosho is changing the connectors on the brushed motors so that they will work with the EVO. I'm guessing that's why they're currently hard to find. You can still get the older versions in Japan. Probably cost you less to import too.
Motor Set(MR-03EVO) MZ9E - December 2018 - NEW ITEM - KYOSHO RC
XSPEED MINI-Z MOTOR-V (MR-03EVO) MZW301E - December 2018 - NEW ITEM - KYOSHO RC
Motor Set(MR-03EVO) MZ9E - December 2018 - NEW ITEM - KYOSHO RC
XSPEED MINI-Z MOTOR-V (MR-03EVO) MZW301E - December 2018 - NEW ITEM - KYOSHO RC