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Old 12-27-2018, 08:04 AM
  #2671  
LJH
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There is also this one which I kind of like, reminiscent of the mid/late '90's WSC cars.

https://www.shapeways.com/product/GM...li=marketplace

Cheers,
Jim
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Old 12-27-2018, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by LJH
There is also this one which I kind of like, reminiscent of the mid/late '90's WSC cars.

https://www.shapeways.com/product/GM...li=marketplace

Cheers,
Jim
For some reason those open cockpit style cars never looked right to me. Maybe if I’d seen that style of racing more I’d have gotten used it to. But for most part only see it few times a year.
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Old 12-27-2018, 08:25 AM
  #2673  
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Originally Posted by Billy Kelly

For some reason those open cockpit style cars never looked right to me. Maybe if I’d seen that style of racing more I’d have gotten used it to. But for most part only see it few times a year.
I hear you but I still think there have been some very pretty open cockpit prototypes over the years.


Cheers,
Jim

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Old 12-27-2018, 10:47 AM
  #2674  
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Is there any other option besides the PN 70t Motor? Can’t find a single stock motor anywhere. Kyosho America has nothing.

Starting to think the PN motor vehicle I’ve been using is just not right. Lost throttle few times last night, no forward or reverse. Motor wires screw are tight. But it’s starting to get longer now till throttle returns.


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Old 12-27-2018, 12:30 PM
  #2675  
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Is the little yellow thermal breaker still installed? Remove it.

What are you looking for as far as motors are concerned?
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Old 12-27-2018, 01:23 PM
  #2676  
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Originally Posted by mleemor60
Is the little yellow thermal breaker still installed? Remove it.

What are you looking for as far as motors are concerned?
I hate the drag brake effect mine has had. After 2 months of us it’s only slightly less. Lift though a turn and the rears lockup. Performance is only slightly better then the stock so far for me. Maybe I got a bad one, that’s what I’ve heard from others in the 1/28 group. I just basically don’t like how it’s changed how the car drives.
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Old 12-27-2018, 01:35 PM
  #2677  
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The pn70 has got a lot of dragbrake, unfortunately.
​​​​​​Have you tried to change brushes? They wear with use, and give dead spots so you don't have power.
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Old 12-27-2018, 01:41 PM
  #2678  
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Building cars for the kids.
​​​​​​Pretty cool when you have raced for so long that you can build three cars from spares😉

I even found my old RR front.


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Old 12-27-2018, 02:10 PM
  #2679  
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Originally Posted by lmlindbo
The pn70 has got a lot of dragbrake, unfortunately.
​​​​​​Have you tried to change brushes? They wear with use, and give dead spots so you don't have power.
I’ve never pulled a motor apart on any scale.

The power lose thing is separate. Some times off a hit against the rail I just loose reverse and forward. Returns after about 10-15 seconds.

I get that these are the upgrade over stock. And maybe with a gearing change, it would be much better on the big track. But at most I’ve got 8-10 possible chance in next 5 months to run big track. Then nothing till fall. Where I can use my home track every night potentially. And on my track there only a small difference between stock motor and the PN.
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Old 12-27-2018, 02:17 PM
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The stock motors are approx 80t. But some of them are fast as stink.

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Old 12-27-2018, 02:34 PM
  #2681  
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Originally Posted by lmlindbo
The stock motors are approx 80t. But some of them are fast as stink.
didn’t know that. I thought the stock motor were also 70T. I just don’t want to end up running a motor I don’t like in all cars in future. Problem is nobody has the stock motors available. Which I see as a big red flag for the overall state of Kyosho. My others don’t have any problems currently, but all it takes is a broken wire to change that.
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Old 12-27-2018, 02:46 PM
  #2682  
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Made this just for you. ;-)
Sorry about the bad quality, only had my phone available.

Get motor out of the car and solder of the wires.
When you solder back on, make sure the red one is on the side of the text.


The first brush I pull has done its job. When they get that low, they can have issues with starting.
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Old 12-27-2018, 02:51 PM
  #2683  
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When it don't want to start after a crash. Try spinning the wheels. If that helps, your brushes are gone.
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Old 12-27-2018, 02:56 PM
  #2684  
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Originally Posted by lmlindbo
Made this just for you. ;-)
Sorry about the bad quality, only had my phone available.

Get motor out of the car and solder of the wires.
When you solder back on, make sure the red one is on the side of the text.

https://youtu.be/B1qpXyqFfTw

The first brush I pull has done its job. When they get that low, they can have issues with starting.
ill try to get the video to play tonight. I have zero soldering ability. It’s been on my list to learn. But haven’t figured out a good way to practice. Watched more how to videos then can count. But I’m missing something when I try.
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Old 12-27-2018, 02:58 PM
  #2685  
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Billy, just a couple of questions. What pinion and spur are you running? Is there any backlash at all between the gears? Is this the FWD car or another? Are you using bearings or bushings in which the motor pod? When was the last time you pulled the rear axle out and cleaned the hair accumulation from around the axle? What transmitter are you using? You may have covered this but I must have missed it.
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