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Old 12-27-2018, 03:19 PM
  #2686  
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Originally Posted by mleemor60 View Post
Billy, just a couple of questions. What pinion and spur are you running? Is there any backlash at all between the gears? Is this the FWD car or another? Are you using bearings or bushings in which the motor pod? When was the last time you pulled the rear axle out and cleaned the hair accumulation from around the axle? What transmitter are you using? You may have covered this but I must have missed it.
MR03. Other then tires and motor itís still stock. 7T pinion. Canít change controller.



I didnít do it in this video. But of my 7 cars itís the only one that does it. Steering works fine when it happens.
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Old 12-27-2018, 03:52 PM
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Are you sure you didn't tighten the left wheel nut too hard?
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Old 12-27-2018, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by lmlindbo View Post
Are you sure you didn't tighten the left wheel nut too hard?
Iím actually not sure if Iíve ever pulled the LR wheel off the car. . With the stock motor, like the others it would or could roll the length on my straight. From day 1 with the PN, itís had zero roll. Itís slightly better now on the smooth side. But nothing like the other 2 MR03 I have.

Iíll try to get a problem video tonight. Between this one and the FWD climbing the rail, should not be too hard.


Overall Iíve come to like this scale. I avoided it for 7 years. These are just a couple of things that have been fustrating. Motors are cheap. For $14 I could give another PN a try. Might be completely different. Iíd just like for the PN to be the only option. Which right now it is. Especially with stock replacements being out of stock everywhere. And been that way for awhile.
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Old 12-27-2018, 04:26 PM
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Still would like to know; pinion backlash, last time all the wheels were pulled and checked for hair and other debris wrapped around the front spindles and rear axle, last time the motor had the proper motor cleaner administered, what lube you are using on the motor bushing's or bearings, how frequently, Comm drops, thermal breaker? There are a couple of other things but lets start with clear answers on what I've asked so far. Please.
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Old 12-27-2018, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by mleemor60 View Post
Still would like to know; pinion backlash, last time all the wheels were pulled and checked for hair and other debris wrapped around the front spindles and rear axle, last time the motor had the proper motor cleaner administered, what lube you are using on the motor bushing's or bearings, how frequently, Comm drops, thermal breaker? There are a couple of other things but lets start with clear answers on what I've asked so far. Please.
Good advice. Like I have been told...common things are common. Start with the simplest solution to a problem. Sounds to me like the gear mesh might be too tight or there is a bunch of debris wrapped around the diff.
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Old 12-27-2018, 04:49 PM
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If he is running the 7t with appropriate shims, the gear mesh would be closer to too loose rather than tight.

pull the diff, check for hair around the axle. Try cleaning the motor. A clean motor is a happy motor, I cannot understate that enough. I can't tell you how many people that I have raced with have had issues due to a dirty motor. The open endbell design of the PN motor keeps things cooler, but allows more debris in. On the plus side, it makes cleaning much easier as well.

I haven't run into issues where the motor would delay on a brushed car unless the motor had many miles on it and wasn't clean. I've even run the brushes entirely off the motors over a few years of constant use. With the age of the motor in question, I would not suspect that the wear would be an issue since it is relatively new. But, how often is it cleaned? A dirty motor will wear considerably faster than a clean one. If the comm has pitted, or brushes torn due to debris, this could be related...

you can pull the brushes without desoldering the motor wires off, it's just easier if you do.

the rear left wheel, I always sand the adapter where it touches the motor mount bearing about .2mm. You can use trial and error, just sanding then placing on the axle while in the mount and see if there is any lateral movement. You stop as soon as you see movement with the adapter fully seated. This allows you to tighten down the left wheel fully and still have a little shake in the axle which is necessary when heat builds in the bearings. You want just enough play that the diff will move laterally, no more no less. This ensures no added resistance from tightening the wheel nut too much, and takes the variable out when doing a wheel change.
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Old 12-27-2018, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by mleemor60 View Post
Still would like to know; pinion backlash, last time all the wheels were pulled and checked for hair and other debris wrapped around the front spindles and rear axle, last time the motor had the proper motor cleaner administered, what lube you are using on the motor bushing's or bearings, how frequently, Comm drops, thermal breaker? There are a couple of other things but lets start with clear answers on what I've asked so far. Please.

Ok. There is no adjustments for pinion. Itís the mounts only. Originally thatís what I though it was. It ran and sounded like gear mesh was too tight.

Never have lubed motor, on any of my cars. No matter the scale.
It came with bearing, only one of mine has bushings. Usually once a month Iíll give cars a blast with an air compressor. Treated all cars the same.
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Old 12-27-2018, 05:35 PM
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A 70T is fairly high maintenance. A blast(spritz) of motor spray with each battery pack is highly recommended along with a drop of very high grade oil(Remington gun oil) with every run is recommended as well. There is a pinion adjustment. It is done with the supplied spacers. One set for 6 another for 7-8 and another for 9. They must be properly installed of you will get a bind. Personally I would drop back to the 6T for that track so as to reduce the motor load off the corners in the twisty bits. Pull all the wheels and the rear axle out and check for debris. pick up an inexpensive jewelers loupe and a bright light. Look into the motor. You will be astonished with what you find. Cars at this scale have higher maintenance needs than their larger scale cousins. A single grain of sand or grit is like a boulder to one of these cars. Do some maintenance as outlined above and see if things improve
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Old 12-27-2018, 06:37 PM
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When I first started running the 70T motor I experienced a lot of drag brake as well. Over time it seems to have gotten much less though. I know you put a lot of miles on your car so it should be fairly well broken in my now. One thing I will strongly suggest is following mleemor’s suggestion with the motor spray and Bachman motor lube. Between the elixirs and playing with the gear mesh my motor is SO much better then it was originally....it is like a totally different motor.

Cheers,
Jim
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Old 12-27-2018, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by LJH View Post
When I first started running the 70T motor I experienced a lot of drag brake as well. Over time it seems to have gotten much less though. I know you put a lot of miles on your car so it should be fairly well broken in my now. One thing I will strongly suggest is following mleemorís suggestion with the motor spray and Bachman motor lube. Between the elixirs and playing with the gear mesh my motor is SO much better then it was originally....it is like a totally different motor.

Cheers,
Jim
yes, the elixirs definitely work magic on the motors to free them up. Even in the box stock class where we don't have mesh adjustment capability... the lube and cleaning helps the brushes seat very well without needing a break in before running. Removes a lot of the arcing as well.
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Old 12-28-2018, 08:25 AM
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I’ll look into the suggestions. I’d wondered about motor lube. But hadn’t really seen much mentioned about it. I did go a head and ordered another PN motor. I’ll keep it as a spare for now. Or maybe I’ll try it as a comparison. I’d still really like to see the stock motor become available. I still see this as a red flag for Kyosho.
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Old 12-28-2018, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Billy Kelly View Post
Iíll look into the suggestions. Iíd wondered about motor lube. But hadnít really seen much mentioned about it. I did go a head and ordered another PN motor. Iíll keep it as a spare for now. Or maybe Iíll try it as a comparison. Iíd still really like to see the stock motor become available. I still see this as a red flag for Kyosho.
Kyosho is changing the connectors on the brushed motors so that they will work with the EVO. I'm guessing that's why they're currently hard to find. You can still get the older versions in Japan. Probably cost you less to import too.

Motor Set(MR-03EVO) MZ9E - December 2018 - NEW ITEM - KYOSHO RC

XSPEED MINI-Z MOTOR-V (MR-03EVO) MZW301E - December 2018 - NEW ITEM - KYOSHO RC
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Old 12-28-2018, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Kremzeek View Post
Kyosho is changing the connectors on the brushed motors so that they will work with the EVO. I'm guessing that's why they're currently hard to find. You can still get the older versions in Japan. Probably cost you less to import too.

Motor Set(MR-03EVO) MZ9E - December 2018 - NEW ITEM - KYOSHO RC

XSPEED MINI-Z MOTOR-V (MR-03EVO) MZW301E - December 2018 - NEW ITEM - KYOSHO RC
Thatís all for the brushless version. Iím looking for a simple stock brushed motors.
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Old 12-28-2018, 01:03 PM
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I have a feeling that Kyosho will be phasing out the older stock brushed motors for those. They'll should work fine on older cars once you swap the connectors.
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Old 12-28-2018, 01:08 PM
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I checked Kyosho Japan's website and the OG stock motor (MZ9P) is still in stock over there. The X Speed (MZW8P) is backordered until January. Looks like they'll be around for awhile still.
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