I think Box Stock should be Kyosho only, not even Jomuremas.

well honestly at the slower box stock speeds there are quite a few bodies that are faster and lighter than a Jomu even with the hard windows...

OK, after talking it over Lexan WILL NOT be allowed in BoxStock! Our Challenge is it's own thing, Jim used some already standing rules, and talked with people who race a lot, and came up with the rules we have. We do have to take into account the progression of the Mini-Z, and adapt from there, or risk it folding though.

On Jomurema bodies, they are a "grey area" in our Box Stock class. Since the beginning they have been allowed for people starting out in the scale/format to learn with since they are soo easy on the walls. However if a person was to start constantly running up front with one they would be asked to follow the rules and go with a Kyo body. That's always worked, and that's what I intend to follow. Mainly because if I wouldn't have been shown the Jomu body and told to run it in Box Stock, I probably would have quit out of frustration of trying to get around the track cleanly!!! It allowed me to learn and develop the necessary skills for this class and I had been in r/c for over 30 years at that point, just never at this scale! Now even though I'm in no way good enough to be first, I run a Kyo body. Now I did file a few mm off the splitter of my 12C, as I was tired of breaking them, but just enough so it wouldn't stick under the walls. It will still stick if I hit hard enough, but it's alot better. If others do the same, I get it, as all the Kyo bodies produced now have big splitters, and will have breaking problems. And I can barley afford the $30 bodies made now, let alone buying a old stock body that is easier on the walls, so whatever we can do to protect what we have.

And AM03GT is correct, the Jomu with the factory window is HEAVY! So once you learn with it, you can be much faster with a Kyo body, and you usually start running into Traction Roll problems with the Jomu when you are fast enough to switch anyway.

So I hope Yall are enjoying running the new Layout! Remember to Breathe, Blink, and HAVE FUN!!!

Please don't think I care that much about bodies. I was just voicing my disgust for unnecessary PN parts and ugly bodies. I would also prefer that Box Stock use Kyosho wheels and tires too, but I realize that is a bridge too far.

PN rules allow them to sell more Lexan roofs LOL

I’ve been running for about two months now and I’m still learning a lot about what actually makes a difference in performance. One big takeaway for me: most hop up parts don't do much unless it's for durability. It turns out tires, wheels, and bodies make a way bigger difference than any anodized part.

This challenge is already a little confusing—especially for newer folks trying to match: Classes with bodies, Bodies with chassis length, Motors with batteries, etc,. Whatever we can do to make it easier for newcomers to this challenge would help.

I think tires being open for a box stock class is already forgiving. Bodies I can agree with no lexan bc the challenge being its own thing. Lighter ones are clearly faster and help reduce traction rolling. I like the idea of limiting wheels to Kyosho or at min wheels with no discs, flanges, or wide lips. It levels the playing field and eliminates wheel-based performance gains in box stock only.

Oh, and I refuse to true my tires to paper thin so TR has been a battle. Discs have been crucial to run the grippier bigger diameter (22.8-23.0) PN tires for me. Kyo 30's i can run without any aid but it's legit 3 tenths slower vs PN KS-series front tires.

If we run regular spoked wheels, I will just have to slap on Kyo 30 or true my grippier tires down to have fun with 4 tires on the ground.

At the end of the day, this is all for fun and to make it easy for newcomers to be introduced to all this fun.

Love this new layout. I can finally pin the throttle and not worry about plowing into a barrier or ping ponging in the straight.

JUNE 2025 RESULTS

************************************************** ************************************************** ************************************************** ************************************************** ************************************************** **************************

First off Welocme BJ Rul glad to have another racer join us! We had a pretty good running in June with BoxStock being the biggest class. Good to see some of the newer folks running strong in the Challenge! The last layout was a TOUGH one, but the July/August Layout is a bit easier while needing a good setup to keep from TR in the 180s! I hope Yall have fun and THANK YOU ALL for participating and making this fun! And to those who have gotten tracks recently, post your times, no matter what they are, as it's great to go back and track your progress.

CRiXman had the FREAKIN SMOKIN RUN of 205.544/3:25.544 and a Fast Lap of 2.548!!! All with His 3D Printed chassis!! CONGRATS AWESOME RUN!!!

BOX STOCK

1) chjosi---------------------------252.774/4:12.774--2.957
2) ekim628--------------------------255.210/4:15.210--3.060
3) BoxxerBoyDrew--------------------274.807/4:34.807--3.200
4) AM03GT---------------------------278.844/4:38.844--3.286
5) joelisenat-----------------------281.728/4:41.728--3.098
6) danjoy25-------------------------326.560/5:26.560--3.640
7) bj rul---------------------------380.403/6:20.403--4.299)

STOCK

1) ekim628--------------------------260.230/4:20.230--2.920
2) BoxxerBoyDrew--------------------261.078/4:21.078--3.128
3) joelisenat-----------------------278.109/4:38.109--3.089
4) AM03GT---------------------------297.449/4:57.449--3.278
5) danjoy25-------------------------311.810/5:11.810--3.640

PRO STOCK

1) chjosi----------------------------241.550/4:01.550--2.775
2) ekim628---------------------------262.880/4:22.880--2.820
3) BoxxerBoyDrew---------------------272.062/4:32.062--3.059

NAROW

1) BoxxerBoyDrew---------------------274.340/4:34.340--3.252

PORSCHE

1) BoxxerBoyDrew---------------------267.443/4:27.443--3.225
2) GBurr-----------------------------275.141/4:35.141--3.277
3) Poor Boy--------------------------283.030/4:43.030--3.150
4) joelisenat------------------------302.172/5:02.172--3.326

UNOFFICIAL OPEN MX-5

1) BoxxerBoyDrew---------------------282.024/4:42.024--3.237

OPEN 2WD

1) CRiXman---------------------------205.544/3:25.544--2.548
2) Poor Boy---------------------------243.040/4:03.040--2.830
3) BoxxerBoyDrew---------------------264.824/4:24.824--3.162
4) AM03GT----------------------------295.041/4:55.041--3.170
5) bj rul----------------------------478.590/7:58.590--4.831

THANKS AGAIN EVERYONE and if I screwed something up let me know! Drew

Ekim628, we hear ya and understand about the intro to Mini-Zs is very confusing! We try to keep it simple to help with that, but the changes we have allowed have been to help with keeping the cars intact, though sometimes they help with speed too. Here's a little info on why we've done what we've done. Other than Kyo wheels were allowed due to Kyo wheels often breaking at the inside bearing carrier of the wheels. Then when Disk Wheels, whatever make, came to be they were allowed as some can't afford or don't have access to a truer, and got tired of Super Gluing the sidewalls. As for Kyo tires, the biggest issue next to speed, is tire life. I will burn through a set of Kyo LH 30 fronts almost 3 to 1 compared to PN KS/KSM 30* LH tires . Then it's difficult to switch back and forth from Kyo tires to the other multiple classes we run. We have to set up rules, but then we don't want to rule someone out of participating. It's a fine balance as I am learning, quickly. I hope this helps, and continue to keep running great! Your getting this down QUICKLY, much faster than I did!!!!

Don't get me wrong, Kyo tires are good on RCP, and probably better than PN tires in other situations. Also their LM tires are a BLAST to run on, again just not as fast as PN/Marka combo most run. I'd love to give a run at a class of LM bodies on LM tires some time!!!

I got the V2 MR04 arms in today, and I put a set on my MX-5 chassis, because of the +1mm front disk wheels would catch on the walls with anything more than a slight brush with the walls. I measured the front track width before and after , 69.45mm to 69.00mm outside disk to outside disk. I then ran it with the same wheel/tires, and while the new arms look the same there is some slight changes, because the disks would rub the body after the change during a 75%+ turn. So I went to 0mm 20mm Disk wheels, and adjusted the shim stack a bit, and 0mm wheels ran perfect, and tuck the wheels under the body enough that brushes with the wall no longer stop the car! With a bit of adjusting of the steering d/r and -expo, I was flying again!!

The redesigned arms, are beveled on the outside edges of both the upper and lower arms, and are slightly thinner in build. Overall a upgrade worth the $6 or so dollars! The king pins and lower balls do have more free play compared to the V1, but as of my limited testing I couldn't tell a difference. The upper arms have been beefed up some too, and feel much stiffer.
V1 MR04 Arms

V2 MR04 Arms

V1 MR04 Arms

V2 MR04 Arms

On my Readyset MR04 the V2 arms allowed me to remove the .5mm shim I had behind the wheel for clearance, which between in new arms and the narrower track had it turning better than before, which took a little getting used to. But I turned my steering d/r down 2 clicks (4 actual numbers lower) and had at it! I was a few seconds slower the second run, but I was able to hit a 4.3xx second lap vs. a 4.4xx with the V1. So with a little practice with the V2 version I will probably be a better!

You can see the beveling of the arms in the pics to clearance. Again I feel they are worth the $6+ bucks and the time to put them in.

NO WORRIES BUD!!! We all have what we prefer, and our opinions, and I hope we all feel free to politely express them here! And I agree with ya on the looks of the Jomu. Sitting next to a Kyo auto scale body, they look like a half used bar of soap. But after running r/c for 40+ years I guess I've gotten used to unrealistic bodies. You can paint them to disguise their shape some, but at the end of the day, their mid cab design with short front overhang, just fits my driving style. I much prefer a Mid Cab body. Plus the strong and smooth front end helps my blind arse out A LOT! If our walls had paint on them I'd have a Darlington Stripe from nose to tail on all my bodies! I don't dare to run Lexan bodies at night when my Wife is asleep in the next room, as the LOUD popping of the wheel well catching on the wall as I try to slide it down the straight, will have her wake up NONE TOO HAPPY! DON'T ASK!

All this talk of BoxStock has me curious to try running a 100% Kyosho BoxStock Chassis now that I'm have gained more confidence with my driving. I put the V2 arms on my BoxStock too, and after a little testing with my NSX body, I am going to try my McLaren F1 LM with Kyo tires and wheels now that I can run 0mm front wheels. And if that goes well, I have a spare BoxStock chassis I can build, after replacing the fried board, and use the factory t plate, mount, front clip, wheels and tires, and see how it goes. I also have a Kyo LM pod setup and a Merc C9 to try a 102mm BoxStock. Run some full 75 lap timed runs and see how I can do now. I've learned not to burn up my tires by over driving like I was still running dirt, and am much smoother now. So maybe I can make Kyo tires work and last. Tire longevity is my biggest concern, but I got a new set of Kyo LH 30* fronts and 20* Rear Radials mounted up and ready, and I'll let Yall know how that goes!

Anyway, Yall have a GREAT TIME running, and I HOPE Everyone and their Friends and Families are safe in these CRAZY WEATHER TIMES!!! Drew

I ran my BoxStock tonight with a NSX Body and tested PN KS-M Medium Low Height on PN +1mm 20mm Yellow BBS fronts and Marka V1R10 slicks on Kyo +1.5mm 20mm White Camaro wheels against Kyo 30* LH fronts and Kyo 20* Radials on the factory NSX wheels. All tries were taped with PN tire tape, and while I did super glue the side walls on the PN tires a long time ago the Kyo tires were left alone. No other changes were made to the chassis or radio between the tire change. I was used to the PN tires, so handling was pretty good. The Kyo tires took a bit to get used to, as my breaking and turning points were different, but it was ok on them. Better than I remembered from a few years ago. The fast lap times weren't that far off, but that's deceiving, as I wasn't pushing very hard on the PN/Marka tires, but it was all I could do to squeeze out that lap time on the Kyo times. Really a perfect lap, for me anyway, with me hitting the brakes just right into the fast 180*s and rolling through the others. On the PN/Marka tires ya still had to be mindful of TR, on the Kyo tires the car wouldn't TR all the way, but would want to veer into the wall instead of flipping over.
Anyway here's the times




The TR probably wouldn't be as bad if I would have mounted the body 1mm lower. The humidity is bad here at 71% at 71*, so traction would usually be different at the normal mid 50% range it usually is this time of year too. Anyway here's a side by side comparison of the tires. Next test will be with the McLaren F1LM.

I just swapped the same tires onto my box stock last night. Seemed like night and day difference, but the Kyosho tires on there were worn out. Kind of surprised honestly when I pulled the fronts off to see how thin they were, and the rears were out of tread. I grabbed a couple pairs of the Marka rears and they seem to be pretty good. Seems like the Kyosho 20R rears get worn out pretty fast, so if there is a slick that will run longer and stay the same I'm all for it. Traction rolling was a bit of an issue, but even with a few barrel rolls my time was improved. Was trying to run it with a Kyosho body (instead of Jomurema) and decided to try the C8.R again, and it wasn't bad. Grabs the walls a bit but ran pretty fast. Actually have two of those bodies from readysets and the yellow one at this point has had the front end crack so many times it is mostly glue at this point. Tried for a sturdier fix so hoping I can run that and keep the other one nice.

Still not sure where I'm at with the Porsche, just need to be smoother to keep the wheels on the ground. Not sure how much a different motor pod would help, it would be nice to get the ride height lower and the RM seems especially tall (compared to LM running normal tires and the adjustable MM pod from the MR04), just a high cost for a part (Nexx?). Also need a new nose clip but the only thing around I can find is the carbon PN one that was for the older 911 GT3 RS body, seems the newer body I have has a new part number (MZP150 vs new MZP159), anyone know if they are actually the same?

Having some glitchy readyset controllers hasn't helped, but I think I got them cleaned up a bit and running ok for now. About to pull the trigger on a NB4+, seems to be the best option at the moment.

joelisenat, tires are a constant struggle between longevity and grip. Then when ya find the grip it's a fight with Traction Roll. I'm playing with Kyo tires on my McLaren F1 GTR, and their grip level has it pretty quick, but stopped the constant battle with TR with that body. I like it, but I need to order some of their Very Low Height 30* fronts, because I have to raise the body up in the front with even their Low Height tires as they contact the body when I turn them. Doing that it clears, but ANY touch of the wall it either climbs it or stops it cold with the nose it the air! 19mm wheels would probably fix it, but I never felt 19mm wheels were in the spirit of the BoxStock rules.

On the RM Motor Pod, I feel the Nexx pod is TOTALLY WORTH IT! You have to use screw in motors, and while Brushed motors work, it's best with Brushless! With Brushed motors you have to set the axel at it's highest and use new tires to get the ground clearance for the motor. With Brushless you can slam it to the ground and the CG is VERY LOW! It's like driving a different car!

I'm not for sure what clip works on the new Porsche, but I had to order both of what PN offers to find what fit my New Old Stock body I got off EBay a few years ago. I REALLY like the carbon nose clips, they save the chassis from waring out the screw holes and you can adjust the body height easily, BUT after braking a few bodies, I'm starting to wonder if the carbon clips are too rigid causing the bodies to brake. You can use sheet polystyrene/rigid sheet plastic to reinforce the noses of the bodies, using Shoe Goo to glue them in.

The NB4 was one of the best things I bought for my Mini Zs!! EASY to adjust settings, and you feel much more connected to the car!

Good Luck with everything and HAVE FUN!!!

Couldn't sleep last night, so at 4am I slapped on my last set of new Kyo LH 30* fronts on some 19mm PN Dish wheels (so they clear the body), and gave it a go! MAN, does the car handle well, at least till I cooked off the tread from my last Kyo 20* radial rears. The rear now comes around very easily in the high speed 180s! I ordered a set of Super Low Height 30* fronts and 20* Rear Radials, that way I can run 20mm wheels, and while the 19mm rims clear the new 2.0 arms, it's just barely!

It's nice not to fight traction roll on Kyo tires! I even put the spoiler back on the body. At the low speeds of the BoxStock I doubt it does anything, but it looks cool! I'll time test the Kyo's when they get here, then see if I can find a tire combo (PN and Marka) to run in the body that doesn't cause constant rolling! The F1 body is a nice BoxStock body, with a pretty smooth front end and low CG. I run 0mm fronts and -1mm wide rears to clear the body with the height I set it at! It shoots through the quick turns being so narrow. So even if it's a little slower I might just keep it on Kyo tires, IF I can keep the tread on the rears!

Using the brushed motors drag brake advantage to whip around the corners faster on July's layout. Dialing in my Super Stock GT Kyosho Xspeed motor with a open pod mount.

Got my new Rx in from Hobby Addicts to replace my glitching one, THANKS AGAIN!!! So I ran my GLR with a Green Jomu, and ran a pretty good time for me! I had a few mental errors that added 5-10 seconds, but this was my 7th full run of the session (first with my GLR) and my brain was getting a bit punchy and eyes drying out, so I can run it cleaner! One thing I've figures out with this layout is the short end (turns 1,2,and 3) can eat up the clock! Ya think your doing it well till the clock tells ya otherwise. I can burn up .3-.5 seconds in that quick section!
Anyway here's my best run soo far!


DAMN, gotta LOVE the consistency of the GLR!!!! Pretty easy to hit a 4 flat lap with it, and a STRUGGLE to hit a 4.1 with my Z's!

Eric, GREAT WORK on the motor mod! Thats a great motor! Strong but smooth! You dang sure got the Mini Z's down QUICK!!! Hat's off to Ya!!!