I take this to be results for two different drivers in the Stock class? Welcome to the challenge!

Yes

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We had 13 drivers posting 38 entries last month, including some new racers. Welcome to all the new racers! Please reach out if you have questions of any kind. The Mini96 is a little challenging but when you master it, it’s really fun and will help with driving at all scales.

This is the most racers we have had in a long time. Thank you all for participating. We had some close racing in many classes.

Here are the results:

Box Stock Sportsman
1st - Koma306/Brandon Knogler – 329.1/4.06s
2nd - Streetimages/Eddie Marrero - 334.0/4.06s
3rd - Streetimages Jr - 337.0/4.10s
4th - CrazyRonny/Ronald Bolduc – 355.0/4.10s
5th - danjoy25/Dan Dylen Garcia – 360.4/4.48s
6th – BoxxerBoyDrew – 362.8/4.24s
7th – Malave/ Michael Malave – 396.6/4.63s
8th – iRvZ – 402.19/4.76s
9th – TheRcPest/Kevin Erdmann – 405.4/4.74s
10th - feu98/Pierre Thisdel – 420.2/4.74s

Box Stock Expert
1st - Traveler2/Marwan Zabaneh – 300.9/3.74
2nd - PoorBoy/David Krinard – 320.03/3.93s
3rd - Chjosi – 324.62/3.91s

Narrow Class
1st - Traveler2/Marwan Zabaneh – 297.2/3.77s
2nd - PoorBoy/David Krinard – 325.1/4.01s
3rd – CrazyRonny/Ronald Bolduc – 363.0/4.25

Unofficial Open MX-5 Class
1st - Traveler2/Marwan Zabaneh – 308.9/3.81s
2nd - PoorBoy/David Krinard – 310.3/3.85s
3rd – CrazyRonny/Ronald Bolduc – 370.0/4.42s

Porsche Cup Class
1st - Traveler2/Marwan Zabaneh – 288.6/3.58
2nd - PoorBoy/David Krinard – 306.3/3.73s
3rd – BoxxerBoyDrew – 359.9/4.13
4th – CrazyRonny/Ronald Bolduc – 368.0/4.21s

Stock 86 Class
1st - CrazyRonny/Ronald Bolduc – 372/4.40s

Stock Class
1st - Traveler2/Marwan Zabaneh – 273.7/3.33s
2nd - PoorBoy/David Krinard – 282.7/3.50s
3rd – BoxxerBoyDrew – 366.8/4.13
4th - danjoy25/Dan Dylen Garcia – 368.2/4.57
5th - feu98/Pierre Thisdel – 390.8/4.47s

Pro Stock
1st - Traveler2/Marwan Zabaneh – 269.8/3.36s
2nd - PoorBoy/David Krinard – 291.0/3.44s
3rd – BoxxerBoyDrew – 342.7/3.98
4th - CrazyRonny/Ronald Bolduc – 361.0/4.18

Open 2WD
1st - Traveler2/Marwan Zabaneh – 266.3/3.27s
2nd - PoorBoy/David Krinard – 276.3/3.30s

Open AWD
1st - PoorBoy/David Krinard – 308.7/3.57

MA-020
1st - PoorBoy/David Krinard – 357.27/4.39
2nd - CrazyRonny/Ronald Bolduc – 387/4.46

FTM goes to Traveler2/Marwan Zabaneh in his Open 2WD car with a blistering 3.27 fast lap!

If anyone was late, please post up and I will update the results. Also please check my tabulations.

I was trying my BoxStock chassis out, and it wasn't running well at all. It seemed slow when I was running the other day, but I thought it was just me. I was only able to turn a 4.3 MAX with 4.6 being comfortable. Well I checked and everything was free and running smooth, so I switched the motor out with another clean and oiled motor, and bam it was up to speed again. I had 8.5g of tungsten putty under the chassis, and I removed it too.

I wasn't aware that added weight wasn't allowed in BoxStock after reading some of Traveler2's posts, so is it???

The car is faster with more power, but I know the motor had to be causing it. Because before I even put it on the track, you could hear the difference in motor RPM!
I'll post with post repair times tomorrow.
P.S. I took apart the motor that had lost power, and while it was dirty (carbon, brush dust, and some metal flakes), but the brushes were good and it wasn't overly dirty. ??? Who knows, I'm not going to hook it back up now, as I don't want to stress the clip on my only MM top clip I have left. So I cleaned & oiled it, then put it back into storage and try it later on.

Adding weight is not permitted in box stock.

What is the car doing? I know when I started with my MX-5 I had troubles with traction roll and the car climbing the walls with a slightest tap. I found a carbon fiber front clip that fit and it allowed me to lower the nose of the body and then side clips. It stopped the climbing and helped a great deal with traction rolling. First I used a Toyota GT1 clip that I filed the thickness to fit the body, and while it worked, it didn't sit in the pocket far enough, and would pop out if I hit the wall just right. Then I saw that PoorBoy was using a Ferrari 599xx clip, so I ordered one from GT55racing. It is the correct thickness but a bit to long. So I filed the length down till it fit, and I have had no problems with it since.

I run mine with a Nexx RM pod, #4 carbon t plate, PN DDS and no top shock. Also run PN KS-M Low height Med Fronts and L.H. Soft rears on 20mm wheels.
Like that it runs great. By no means is it a 98mm wide body set up, but it is fun and fast. I also super glued the front side walls, and it took almost all the T.R. out of it. I can still roll if I get crazy, but it went from trying to run it fast and being on 2 wheels in the fast 90's, to really being able to push the speed with just the hint of T.R.

Anyway, let us know and we'll help where we can.

Well, another sleepless night here in Texas, and I got bored and wanted to test the repair on my Mazda 787B. So I swapped my Stock chassis from 98mm 12C to my 787B. I have the Multi Mount pod so the swap was easy, but I had to adjust the height of the body clips to lower the body height, as it was too high and causing T.R. problems. I also removed the rear wing, as it hangs up on the walls when I clip a wall or roll it, also it's a bit of weight up high too.

So now that the weight is as low as possible I went to tire/wheel selection. I went with +2mm N PN Dish wheels w/ KS-M Medium LP, which has been good on the 787. I started with 14mm Speed Dish wheels and KS-M Softs, but I didn't have enough steering, so I went to +2mm W PN BBS wheels and KS-M Soft Radials. Bam steering is back and T.R. is much better.

This is a new PN chassis and I only had the center pocket, in front of the power switch, filled with Tungsten putty. So I added 2g stick on weights to either side of the chassis, and it sticks and steers better. It was 130g before weights w/no batteries, 134g after. I ran it with SpeedHouse batteries that weigh 50g. These are a year old batteries, so they don't have alot of punch, but their speed is ok. With them I ran about 15 minutes and I'm happy to say the repair to the body with PLASTIC SURGERY is holding strong after some hard hits head on into the wall off the 90* on the main straight!!! Not even a hint of recracking, and all I did was put a drop in the crack and around the edge of the headlight lens, with no additional structure added. It slightly fogged the lens, but nothing like normal super glue. I'll add a pic later.

Anyway, I'm having fun on this layout even going CCW! It's a challenge to get the throttle control and steering just right going as fast as this track will run, but when you get it right it is awesome!

P.S. I also received a email today from Banzai saying my shipment has experienced "an Delivery Exception" and to call the carrier asap. It is in New York Customs. It looks as it is passing through, and I'm HAPPY as the number I have for Japan Parcel wouldn't work! Hope the C9 is here soon!

Did not know that also... I tried adding weight to my Box Stock also, but I'm glad it was not a success and removed it at the end... but also glad that my fastest run was before trying to add weight, never been abble to match this run for the rest of the month.
It is not specify in the Box Stock rules... maybe you should add it to the rules as adding weight is normally never consider an upgrade in RC. (But removing weight is, this is why most stock class rules come with a minimum weight)

I have traction roll problem with most of my car this month (car was the same setup a last month but it didn't work the same this month)... I glued the side wall to make the car stop this but I think I lost some corner speed at the same time.
I just finished printing some spacer to lower the front body clip to try to lower the nose and the CG... will also try to lower the side also (was scared about braking everything trying to remove the original one but have a few chat with PoorBoy about that and will risk it and try it this month) I didn't know that all the side clip was not the same... just learn it now... but after I think of it it make total sense since most body don't have the same shape and width. :-/
Thnak's for your help and will keep you in touch about the change and result :-)

Sorry about your troubles CrazyRonny! TR can be a BIT$H!!! Especially when you become able to go faster. I though I had TR figured out until I got to the speeds I'm at now. Usually setups can transfer from one direction to the other on the same layout, but weather mainly humidity plays a huge roll in traction levels. So if you have had a change in the weather it could be it.

ALSO, many people have trouble changing directions! Myself included!! I'm much better going ClockWise vs. CounterClockWise. It has taken me 2 years to run within 2-3 tenths of a second per lap when changing directions! CW feels more natural and I have to fight my instincts to turn in the correct direction for 20+ laps when we change directions at the beginning of CCW months.

I've tried gluing the front sidewalls twice. The first time I tried using a tube of Super Glue and got way too much on the driving surface of the tire, about 2mm, not just the side wall. I too lost way too much corner grip, but they were at the end of their live so I trashed them. The second set are on my 911 now, and I used a bottle of superglue with a brush and just covered the sidewall of some pretty new KS-M Low Profile tires. And this time it helped A BUNCH without killing the steering. So my advice is to use the glue sparingly to keep from ruining a set of tires.

It's soo cool you have a 3d printer! They open up a world of possibilities on R/C! Removing the side clips for factory Kyosho bodies is usually a pretty easy task, at least the few I have done it too. I use a flat blade thin enough to get behind the glued clip and twist it side to side to pop the glue loose, I use my scalpel. The only glue this hasn't worked with is Plastic Surgery. It actually melts the pieces together. After you pop them loose, I slip them into place on the chassis, then slide the body on and adjust the body to get the clip height you want without the tires touching the body. Next I use my caliper to measure the position, lock it in place. Last just remove the body and glue with plain superglue and use some cloths pins to hold them in place for a few minutes, then ur done! Just BE SURE to have new tires, and your chassis height set where you want it, because I have done it with worn tires. Then when I replaced them I had clearance issues! Also I tried sanding down the side clips to use the factory height guides molded into the body, but it was difficult to get them the same on both sides. Instead I use my scalpel and easily trim the stop tabs flush with the glue tabs, so you can set the height using the caliper to make sure they are even. Kind of hard to explain, but they are just little ears moulded into the same tabs to stop the clip from moving higher into the body. Once you see it, I think it will make since.

Lowering the body had been super helpful with controlling TR. Another thing I just realized is, that I was turning down my steering D/R down too much to help with TR, but it was killing my corner speeds! Turning my D/R up and adding a bit more negative Expo has me shooting through the corners, alot of times too fast for my mind to keep up with it! LOL It's 4am here, and I want to get some timed laps in, but trying to quietly hook up the laptop is too noisy! I have to setup my work table in the track room this weekend, so I can run quietly when the wife is asleep in the next room!

Have Fun and let us know what Ya get figured out!

Man can nothing go right? My Banzai order is lost between Customs and USPS Limbo hell! USPS Tracking shows it in Fort Worth, Tx as of yesterday morning at 6am then 2 hours later it says it's being held by Customs in New York! ??? I called USPS and they said it's a Customs problem, and they can't track packages in Customs Systems, Banzai's System is showing exactly what I'm seeing, and are very helpfully trying to get it figured out. And NO answer from Customs yet and I'm not holding my breath for a response. USPS finally found a log of it being scanned in Dallas this morning at 6am, but it's not showing in their tracking system that I can look at.

Anyone have anything like this happen to their packages? I've heard of the addresses being in different places on Japan Pkgs giving the CPU readers at USPS problems, but this? I've wanted a C9 body ever since I started Mini-Zs, and now soo close, yet sooo far!
Thanks

German customs are the same once it hits them you never know if you’ll see your package or not

GREAT NEWS! My package got here today! Weird that it kept saying it was held in customs till it was out for delivery.

I ran it as pictured but the multi mount adjustment screws hit the rear deck and would cause a bad spin in the corners. So I busted out the Dremel and sanding drum and took care of the problem! The Spur also had a bit of rub on the diffuser so I took care of that too.

It runs VERY well with no adjustments from the 787B setup. I have +2mm all the way around but +3mm will easily fit, running a normal axel. I think it is going to be a runner! Here's the pic for proof!

Can a weighted T-plate mount be used in box stock class, like the one from PN racing.

Part Number: MR3058A
PN Racing Mini-Z
MR-03 Balance Brass Weight T-Bar Mount (3.7g)

[QUOTE=RACS15;16118959]Can a weighted T-plate mount be used in box stock class, like the one from PN racing.

Part Number: MR3058A
PN Racing Mini-Z
MR-03 Balance Brass Weight T-Bar Mount (3.7g)[/QUOTE ]

No sorry. Can not add weight in box stock

After talking to PoorBoy about retrying Marka rear tires, I mounted up a set of V1R10 on some Kyo BBS +3mm and gave them a shot. I had a set of PN KS-M Soft radials that are worn to slicks on the C9, and they were ok but I was having problems with the back end washing out on the high speed 90s. I have PN KS-M Med low height N on Kyo BBS +3mm up front, and they had great turning with the D/R at 90%. When I went to the Marka's the wash out went away and I can press much harder in the high speed corners, but I had to turn my steering D/R to 100% to have almost the same steering with the same setup. I'm already on White Springs with a #4 T plate, with a Gold Top Spring and Purple Bottom DDS Springs.

I'm going to try going to Yellow front springs to get more steering mid corner to exit. Even going slower in the corners, I'm faster overall! I want to get the Marka Rear tires to work. What would Yall try next? I removed the factory wing and installed a PN Lexan wing too.