Bgilli26

iTrader: (1)

Brian Bosley

iTrader: (13)

it's not really a part number thing, its a drill a hole through the entire motor mount and the chassis ideally (center mount rather than 2), tap it, then cut it halfway down and install ball studs on both sides with a link between them. It's been tested a bunch, not used to win any large races that I know of.

Your So Factory

iTrader: (1)

Why not bring back 4mm chassis and this flex o Matic rubber cars will go away.

RC Engineers are completely incompetent. .....

Airwave

iTrader: (1)

Sure, as everybody knows that there is no difference between lateral flex and longitudinal flex...

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

Hey guys, we are selling one of our test mule TC7.1's in case anyone is interested. Making it ARTR. Tons of upgrades, you can see more here: RSD TC7.1

Bartolo Racing

iTrader: (18)

How did you like 7.1?

Justin805

iTrader: (14)

Trying to rebuild a used tc7.1 I bought. I'm having an issue with inserting the pin for the hex into the dcv. I don't get enough of the dcv to stick out to insert it. This is the first time building a TC and I'm 100% sure it fit before I took everything apart. I must be mixing parts up or something... Also a pic of compression - https://ibb.co/kUAO1T




Here are more images :
https://ibb.co/fN4ST8
https://ibb.co/hsGVgT
https://ibb.co/ftWVgT
https://ibb.co/ffPST8
https://ibb.co/hRbVgT
https://ibb.co/hCiAgT

RobS

You need a 5x10x3 bearing inside the steering block to run the DCJ shafts. Judging by the picture you have the stock 5x10x4 bearing in there.

Serzoni

iTrader: (13)

Make sure that the inner bearing is a 5x10x3 and not 5x10x4 like the outer bearing.

Justin805

iTrader: (14)

Thanks guys, I knew it had to be something easy!

0010

iTrader: (4)

Looking for some advice. I assembled a new 7.1 about a month ago. I built the steering drag link to spec and set the servo arm to vertical, as there was no mention in the manual as to what angle the servo arm should be. It took about 30 steps of left subtrim to get the arm to vertical due to the splines on the servo output. When I setup the steering travel, it takes about 10% more right travel then left travel to achieve the same steering angle on the tires (checking the outside wheel on each side because I know Ackerman will effect the inside wheel).

Back when I flew airplanes and helis, it was always stressed that you should have your link as close to perpendicular to the servo arm as possible to remove differential throw. When I look at the arm now, the angle is probably 30 degrees off perpendicular.

So, I have a couple of questions. First, is this something I should be worried about? I have the same amount of steering angle in both directions, but the servo has to travel further to the right then to the left to achieve that angle. Second, if it a problem, how should I correct it? My first thought is to try and get the servo arm perpendicular to the drag link, but I am afraid that I won't be able to get the drag link short enough if I do that.

Am I crazy for worrying about this? Did I build something incorrectly? Thanks in advance!

Serzoni

iTrader: (13)

Install the horn so that it's perpendicular to the drag link.

0010

iTrader: (4)

Thanks Serzoni!

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

Solid car. Particularly great on asphalt. On Carpet, not quite as quick as my Gizmo, but did not spend a ton of time with it on the rug. I am sure I could have made it just as good.

S_fender

TC7.2 :

http://events.redrc.net/wp-content/u...5/Sat-Rick.jpg

Take a look to the transmission.