395LikesTeam Associated TC7 & TC7.1 Touring Car
04-07-2017, 08:43 AM
#1966
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
I didn't replace the bearing because it works the best when it doesn't spin. The car gets dizzy and un-coordinated when the bearing spins freely. But I did change the oil in the tire pressure sensor and the glow plug. Then things picked up dramatically.
04-07-2017, 05:42 PM
#1967
04-07-2017, 08:35 PM
#1968
What are the front bearing hub sizes?
04-07-2017, 09:18 PM
#1969
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
Front hubs for the TC7 are 5x10x4. If you take out the CVD's and substitute the DCV's, the inside bearing is 5x10x3 and the outside bearing is still 5.10x4. The TC7.1 has DCV's in the kit so those are always 5x10x4 on the outside and 5x10x3 on the inside, same as the TC7 with DCV front axles.
Was that a trick question? Just sayin.
Was that a trick question? Just sayin.
04-08-2017, 11:28 AM
#1970
Front hubs for the TC7 are 5x10x4. If you take out the CVD's and substitute the DCV's, the inside bearing is 5x10x3 and the outside bearing is still 5.10x4. The TC7.1 has DCV's in the kit so those are always 5x10x4 on the outside and 5x10x3 on the inside, same as the TC7 with DCV front axles.
Was that a trick question? Just sayin.
Was that a trick question? Just sayin.
04-09-2017, 08:27 PM
#1971
Hinge pins
Sorry if this has been covered already, but is there an alternative to the AE rear outter hinge pins with the step for the set screws. I've noticed they're fragile and am looking for an upgrade. TIA
04-09-2017, 08:40 PM
#1972
Yup...buy the larger diameter ones for a TC5-TC6.2...then surround it with a complete TC6.2.
I've hit some things fairly hard with my TC7 and haven't managed to damage one yet, so I don't think this is a problem with the part itself. They don't seem overly "fragile".
Scott
I've hit some things fairly hard with my TC7 and haven't managed to damage one yet, so I don't think this is a problem with the part itself. They don't seem overly "fragile".
Scott
04-09-2017, 08:44 PM
#1973
Wow
Thanks for your reply, lots of help............
04-09-2017, 09:04 PM
#1974
Then don't characterize a part as "fragile" that patently isn't. If you're going to pound the f%#$ out of your car stuff will break.
Question: Have you broken a few of these or did you break one and now condemn the design/manufacture of the part as brittle?
Helpful?
1) A-main sells titanium hinge pins for the TC7/TC7.1. Here's a bulletin, they've also got the "step" in them. It doesn't seem to be cut as deeply so there might be a durability advantage there. You can buy inner, outer, or both, I bought outers only for both my TC7's...get rid of a little unsprung weight. I weighed them and the stock ones when I installed them, iir they weighed a little more than half what the ENTIRELY ADEQUATE stock pieces weigh.
2) I just had a thought, are you cranking down on that set screw? I'm curious if that couldn't damage the pin in some way. The set screw only has to run in until it is JUST touching the pin...tightening it beyond that does not serve any purpose. In fact you could back it off from there a fraction of a turn and completely release any pressure on the pin and not affect the set screw's ability to perform it's function. It's only there to keep the pin from walking either direction.
3) Improve durability of the stock part. Are yours breaking in the middle of the "stepped area" or at one end or the other of that step? Cutting a square cut there creates a stress riser (or notch sensitivity if you prefer), those square edged cuts will be the weakest point of the part. IF your part is breaking at one of these risers you could try to radius the cut with a Dremel tool and a grinding bit. A round needle file would also do the job, but you have to get clear down to where you can't see the 90 degree notch any longer. This will lengthen the "stepped area" a little bit on each end but not enough to worry about, and you could actually end up thinning the part a bit more in the step but that SHOULD be ok as long as the contours are rounded.
Scott
Question: Have you broken a few of these or did you break one and now condemn the design/manufacture of the part as brittle?
Helpful?
1) A-main sells titanium hinge pins for the TC7/TC7.1. Here's a bulletin, they've also got the "step" in them. It doesn't seem to be cut as deeply so there might be a durability advantage there. You can buy inner, outer, or both, I bought outers only for both my TC7's...get rid of a little unsprung weight. I weighed them and the stock ones when I installed them, iir they weighed a little more than half what the ENTIRELY ADEQUATE stock pieces weigh.
2) I just had a thought, are you cranking down on that set screw? I'm curious if that couldn't damage the pin in some way. The set screw only has to run in until it is JUST touching the pin...tightening it beyond that does not serve any purpose. In fact you could back it off from there a fraction of a turn and completely release any pressure on the pin and not affect the set screw's ability to perform it's function. It's only there to keep the pin from walking either direction.
3) Improve durability of the stock part. Are yours breaking in the middle of the "stepped area" or at one end or the other of that step? Cutting a square cut there creates a stress riser (or notch sensitivity if you prefer), those square edged cuts will be the weakest point of the part. IF your part is breaking at one of these risers you could try to radius the cut with a Dremel tool and a grinding bit. A round needle file would also do the job, but you have to get clear down to where you can't see the 90 degree notch any longer. This will lengthen the "stepped area" a little bit on each end but not enough to worry about, and you could actually end up thinning the part a bit more in the step but that SHOULD be ok as long as the contours are rounded.
Scott
04-09-2017, 09:29 PM
#1975
Yup...buy the larger diameter ones for a TC5-TC6.2...then surround it with a complete TC6.2.
I've hit some things fairly hard with my TC7 and haven't managed to damage one yet, so I don't think this is a problem with the part itself. They don't seem overly "fragile".
Scott
I've hit some things fairly hard with my TC7 and haven't managed to damage one yet, so I don't think this is a problem with the part itself. They don't seem overly "fragile".
Scott
04-10-2017, 04:58 AM
#1976
Main question obout breakin hinge pin should be (in my opinion):
Where does the pin break?
If it breaks just in the center where the "step" is, the only reason should be, that the set screw was tightend too much!
Just think about how stress should come to that area by something else ...
If there would be stress to the hub, the pin should break between hub and wishbone - but I cannot imagine anyone experiencing that.
So my advice would be just to keep an eye on not tightening the set screw too much as discribed by Scottrik before.
Where does the pin break?
If it breaks just in the center where the "step" is, the only reason should be, that the set screw was tightend too much!
Just think about how stress should come to that area by something else ...
If there would be stress to the hub, the pin should break between hub and wishbone - but I cannot imagine anyone experiencing that.
So my advice would be just to keep an eye on not tightening the set screw too much as discribed by Scottrik before.
04-10-2017, 12:39 PM
#1978
Tech Adept
well i ran this weekend reedy motors the 253 21.5 motor fast lap was 10.6 the 284 fast lap was 10.4 on saturday on sunday i never got to a 10.6 racing i ran the 284 all day so i dont know what the hell is going on.
04-11-2017, 02:41 PM
#1980
Tech Adept