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Old 04-19-2017, 10:57 AM
  #1996  
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I did that without the groove or a notch, no problem on the carpet tracks after10+runs.

Originally Posted by Nerobro
Something tells me that AE is using off the shelf ground rod for that pin, and is then cutting (grinding?) the notch in it. Since I don't have my buddys TC7.1 handy, I can't measure the pin myself... but 2, 3, 4, and 5 mm ground tool steel rod is on ebay for $2-3-4. Make your own pins, grind a nice smooth round divot for your setscrew, or perhaps, none at all!

The smallest rods you can buy are like 200mm long, so cut a dozen, and sell to the locals who are cracking their pins. :-) You'd probally come out ahead.
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Old 04-19-2017, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by SGrubb
Yep that is to much weight to put in. my car is under weight but only 10 grams so no weight in the front of this car. will try something different.
I put 2 Associated screw on weight on the front near the bell crank. problem solved.

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...llast_weights/
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Old 04-19-2017, 02:13 PM
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Thanks i put one in front of the motor mount. so maybe take it off and put it by the bell crank. yes p.s. i also broke two of the pin this last weekend.
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Old 04-24-2017, 10:08 AM
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I would like to thank everyone over the past couple of months for all the help. so thank you i raced this past weekend MHIC here in colorado 7th in the b-main in 21.5 sedan and 3rd in USGT. in the A-main i had a good weekend of racing.
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Old 04-24-2017, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by SGrubb
I would like to thank everyone over the past couple of months for all the help. so thank you i raced this past weekend MHIC here in colorado 7th in the b-main in 21.5 sedan and 3rd in USGT. in the A-main i had a good weekend of racing.
Outstanding, we had some Arizona racers go and where they qualified showed me that there was a lot of great drivers up there! Good job.
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Old 04-24-2017, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by glennhl
Outstanding, we had some Arizona racers go and where they qualified showed me that there was a lot of great drivers up there! Good job.
thanks. i have some changes to post. from the team drivers. made my car a lot better. coming soon.
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Old 04-29-2017, 04:17 PM
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.

Last edited by JUNI; 04-29-2017 at 08:59 PM.
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Old 04-30-2017, 10:37 PM
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Default New Flex Chassis

Our new flex chassis is now available:







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Old 05-01-2017, 08:06 AM
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looks bad ass. How thick is the chassis?
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Old 05-01-2017, 02:35 PM
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Oh, that's purty!!!!
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Old 05-01-2017, 03:54 PM
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That chassis does look very nice and I'm sure performs well, I just can't help but ask why?

I somewhat understand using the aluminum chassis to get less flex than the carbon, but on my 7.1, between using all the screws, the motor mount post, and the front steering post through the top deck, my carbon chassis has near zero noticeable flex.

And I thought that's why the aluminum chassis came to be, to stiffen the chassis more than carbon could.

So why now are we going to "flex" aluminum chassis instead of just using the standard carbon or thinner carbon chassis? Other than some nice bling, I just don't get it.
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Old 05-01-2017, 05:07 PM
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The chassis is 2.0mm thick.

I disagree that making a car stiffer is what the largest benefit from aluminum is. The single biggest benefit is that it lowers the center of gravity of the car by putting weight down at it's lowest possible position. The stiffness is a side benefit that may be optimal under certain conditions, but a lower CG is beneficial under essentially all situations.

Now, as to why we offer a more flexible chassis, there are various reasons.

1.As stated before, stiffness is not what we try to achieve necessarily with aluminum, but it can help increase response in conditions of extreme grip. Our approach with the flex chassis is to isolate flex at specific point on the chassis to aid in rotation and increase steering on the car. A more flexible chassis typically provides an "easier to drive" feel, but in most cases makes the car respond lazily. By isolating the flex at the specific positions we target on the chassis we can get some of this response back and get a compromise of response and ease of control. Our flex chassis has more steering than the AE original aluminum one. It is also slightly narrower so it allows you to run slightly lower ride height without rubbing as much.

2.Not everyone races on SUPER high bite. If the grip is less than super high bite, a more flexible chassis has a wider set up window. There was several large races last year, even on black carpet where a lot of people preferred running something that flexes more.

3.Flex chassis are highly effective on asphalt surfaces as well. If the grip is high and/ or the temperature is high, they can lead to more consistent handling and cooler electronics!

4.It's a tuning OPTION. And as such it gives you, the end user the ability to select an item that is in the range between Flexy carbon and Stiffer than-all-get-out aluminum.

Now is it for everyone, in every track condition? Absolutely not. If you are happy with your stiff and solid AE chassis, use what works for you. We are just giving end users options that can help enhance their hobby enjoyment further, by again, providing options.
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Old 05-01-2017, 05:58 PM
  #2008  
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This weekend, at the Quebec National, my associated 7.1 was on point. She was easy to drive and so fast, it was a charm !

Here my setup sheets for you guys !





The track

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Last edited by Penz316; 05-02-2017 at 04:30 AM.
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Old 05-02-2017, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by theproffesor
That chassis does look very nice and I'm sure performs well, I just can't help but ask why?

I somewhat understand using the aluminum chassis to get less flex than the carbon, but on my 7.1, between using all the screws, the motor mount post, and the front steering post through the top deck, my carbon chassis has near zero noticeable flex.

And I thought that's why the aluminum chassis came to be, to stiffen the chassis more than carbon could.

So why now are we going to "flex" aluminum chassis instead of just using the standard carbon or thinner carbon chassis? Other than some nice bling, I just don't get it.

Hey Proffesor,

Flex can be your friend and it can be your enemy. Keep in mind there is more flex in a chassis than just grabbing the shock towers and twisting. The locations where the bulkheads and suspension block all flex even if the top deck is locked down. Aluminum reduces the flex there as well.

I have been running the Fenix chassis on asphalt for about 2 months now. I honestly prefer it over the carbon. We run on a high bite asphalt track. I have noticed two big advantages of running the aluminum over the carbon.

#1 - Frees up the car. With our high bite the car looses traction with the stiffer chassis. Add the lower CG and it keeps us from traction rolling. Also helps maintain corner speed.

#2 - Consistency! The aluminum chassis provides a lot of consistency from lap to lap. As temperatures, batteries, motors warm the chassis... You get the same feel out of the car.

I have 2 cars built identically to compare notes. One is carbon and one is aluminum. If traction is low... I prefer the carbon. As traction comes up... I prefer the feel of the aluminum. We recently ran at the Tamiya track for the CTS series. I also preferred the aluminum there.

I personally think you will see more aluminum chassis coming into the market across all brands of cars.

Last edited by Unspoiled; 05-02-2017 at 09:55 AM.
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Old 05-02-2017, 11:45 AM
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QFT.

Originally Posted by CristianTabush
The chassis is 2.0mm thick.

I disagree that making a car stiffer is what the largest benefit from aluminum is. The single biggest benefit is that it lowers the center of gravity of the car by putting weight down at it's lowest possible position.
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