Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
VBC Lightning FX >

VBC Lightning FX

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree142Likes

VBC Lightning FX

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-22-2015, 04:28 PM
  #106  
Tech Master
Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
 
AlexPate's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,600
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by disaster999
No its a plastic spacer that goes under the aluminum piece where the upper arm hinge on
On the lower part of the picture all the sudden the spacer is there installed on the front end
I remember a wtf moment as well

Also those look like they might be the upper balls for a lightning 12... Maybe they should stop calling every pan car a lightning and the packagers wouldn't get confused
Attached Thumbnails VBC Lightning FX-image.jpg  
AlexPate is offline  
Old 11-22-2015, 05:13 PM
  #107  
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (1)
 
disaster999's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 3,987
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Yeah, I installed that part without the spacer and I was like..wait, this doesnt look right. Went back to the manual and it didnt say anything about the spacer, even the parts list didnt list out that spacer too. Looked at the picture and noticed its suppose to go there.

If you look closely, the F, FX and 12 all have different part numbers. The shape and form of the ball is different as well. Hopefully they give me the right part
disaster999 is offline  
Old 11-22-2015, 11:09 PM
  #108  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (11)
 
Fredp1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 388
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Come to think about it I had the same issue with missing that spacer too.

My son had his first drive in the FX (and a first drive for any F1) last Friday. Lots of f1 learning to do.
Loosened the diff to be just right stopped the car from hooking on power, set some negative steering and throttle curve made the car drivable.

One of the other drivers suggested thicker lube in the side tubes. We will try 100k instead of 20k.

I would not recommend the Serpent Sf2 front wing as it lasted for one race only. Another car and ours had the same issue.

Last edited by Fredp1; 11-23-2015 at 12:25 PM.
Fredp1 is offline  
Old 11-22-2015, 11:27 PM
  #109  
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (1)
 
disaster999's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 3,987
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

I heard of the same issue with that wing. The first batch seems to be made from a weaker material and would break on the slightest tap, but supposedly they revised the wing and its made tougher.
disaster999 is offline  
Old 11-22-2015, 11:33 PM
  #110  
Tech Master
Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
 
AlexPate's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,600
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Fredp1
Come to think about it I had the same issue with missing that spacer too.

My son had his first drive in the FX (and a first drive for any F1) last Friday. Lots of f learning to do.
Loosened the diff to be just right stopped the car from hooking on power, set some negative steering and throttle curve made the car drivable.

One of the other drivers suggested thicker lube in the side tubes. We will try 100k instead of 20k.

I would not recommend the Serpent Sf2 front wing as it lasted for one race only. Another car and ours had the same issue.
I did some testing with the serpent wings this weekend on carpet high bite, it feels like the front wing generates too much downforce in a high grip situation and caused the front loaded tire to dig in too much. It is also not a wing to use in a beginner situation because it is not as strong as other wings. I think it would be more valuable to run on asphalt where the grip will be lower and traction rolling is non existent.
The I tested the rear wing at all 3 downforce levels and it felt very positive. In the end I went back to the f60 front wing and 3 racing rear wing. These two wings have been the most durable wings I have tried. As well they are performers. I think maybe the serpent wing could be used to greater effect if stiffer springs than Vbc black could be installed on the car.
AlexPate is offline  
Old 11-22-2015, 11:35 PM
  #111  
Tech Master
Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
 
AlexPate's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,600
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by disaster999
I heard of the same issue with that wing. The first batch seems to be made from a weaker material and would break on the slightest tap, but supposedly they revised the wing and its made tougher.
I have sold 5 of the version 2 wings and of that 1 customer broke his on the second day but he was having problems with the car and crashing a lot.
AlexPate is offline  
Old 11-25-2015, 05:37 PM
  #112  
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (1)
 
disaster999's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 3,987
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Took the car out for its first drive last night. Wow...big difference between the LightningF. The car turns a lot better and I have more confident driving than the F.

One thing I noticed is that you can handle the car. If you turn really suddenly at the end of the straight, the rear end comes around sending you into a spin. If you were able to prevent it from spinning the car snaps back pretty violently upsetting the car. I had to bleed off all speed and roll gently into the throttle.

It caught me off guard a few times and Ive drove into the dividers twice. But the temperature suddenly dropped a 8 degree last night so the track was pretty cold so that might have an affect on the tire's grip. Also, one of the side link snapped in half probably when I hit the dividing wall. Kinda surprised how brittle they were. They were like noodles on the LightningF.
disaster999 is offline  
Old 11-25-2015, 05:48 PM
  #113  
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (1)
 
disaster999's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 3,987
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by AlexPate
I am curious, how much slop do the upper king pin balls have in the ball cups? The stock ones have a ton of play, everyone looks at it an goes wtf, all I can say is it's working really well

Also if your running a regular shorty you won't need all that extra weight I added to mine.
I got the new uppper king pin balls and infact feels pretty loose in the cups. I dont notice the play that much tho. Its working pretty good.

On an other note, are you steering arm binding with the kingpin? On mine they dont move up and down freely. The hole seems to be too small for the kingpin and Im tempted to drill it out so it slides up and down better.
disaster999 is offline  
Old 11-25-2015, 06:01 PM
  #114  
Tech Master
Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
 
AlexPate's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,600
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by disaster999
I got the new uppper king pin balls and infact feels pretty loose in the cups. I dont notice the play that much tho. Its working pretty good.

On an other note, are you steering arm binding with the kingpin? On mine they dont move up and down freely. The hole seems to be too small for the kingpin and Im tempted to drill it out so it slides up and down better.
Interesting
They are the same links from the lightning f it's possible the temperature difference made the link snap? Plastics don't like cold
A question for you though, did you add a shock o-ring under the piston to lessen the pod droop? You want about 1.5-2 pod droop
Also are you running the kit springs?

I used a 3mm arm reamer on my steering knuckles to help them move freely but you shouldn't need them as you can use the set screw to lock the knuckle to the kingpin.
AlexPate is offline  
Old 11-25-2015, 06:39 PM
  #115  
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (1)
 
disaster999's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 3,987
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by AlexPate
Interesting
They are the same links from the lightning f it's possible the temperature difference made the link snap? Plastics don't like cold
A question for you though, did you add a shock o-ring under the piston to lessen the pod droop? You want about 1.5-2 pod droop
Also are you running the kit springs?

I used a 3mm arm reamer on my steering knuckles to help them move freely but you shouldn't need them as you can use the set screw to lock the knuckle to the kingpin.
Im not sure if they are the same links or not. Dimension wise they are, but the material seems different. I took the ones off the LightningF for now before I can get some replacements.

I didnt add an o-ring under the piston. Maybe I should. I was wondering myself how to deal with the droop and thought I need to shorten the ball cup.
disaster999 is offline  
Old 11-26-2015, 06:07 AM
  #116  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 323
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

what does everybody run for ride hight i changed the spacers around so the small ones are on the bottom that got me to 5 mm did per the instuctions and it was way to low with rubber tires ? rears about 5 to
ScottZ is offline  
Old 11-26-2015, 08:14 AM
  #117  
Tech Master
Thread Starter
iTrader: (19)
 
AlexPate's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,600
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by ScottZ
what does everybody run for ride hight i changed the spacers around so the small ones are on the bottom that got me to 5 mm did per the instuctions and it was way to low with rubber tires ? rears about 5 to
4mm for carpet 5 for asphalt also do yourself a favor and use aluminum shims in place of plastic where ever you can.
AlexPate is offline  
Old 11-29-2015, 11:48 PM
  #118  
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (1)
 
disaster999's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 3,987
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by AlexPate
Interesting
They are the same links from the lightning f it's possible the temperature difference made the link snap? Plastics don't like cold
A question for you though, did you add a shock o-ring under the piston to lessen the pod droop? You want about 1.5-2 pod droop
Also are you running the kit springs?

I used a 3mm arm reamer on my steering knuckles to help them move freely but you shouldn't need them as you can use the set screw to lock the knuckle to the kingpin.
Another update from my second run at the track. The side link broke the same way and same location as last time. I was cutting it too close on this one corner and curbed the car. It traction rolled and broke the left link, and popped the right link. I guess I have to work on my driving skills a bit.

Also, I took your advice and locked the steering knuckles in place with a set screw. I was having a TON of slop before but locking down the steering knuckles improved that by a whole lot. Im still getting some play in the upper and lower king pin ball as mentioned by you, but its miles better than not locking down the steering knuckle.
disaster999 is offline  
Old 11-30-2015, 07:27 AM
  #119  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 121
Default Fx frontend on LightningF

Anybody know if the FX frontend could fit on the older F car?
Gillblade is offline  
Old 11-30-2015, 07:53 AM
  #120  
Tech Master
 
patorz31's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Edmonton Ab
Posts: 1,554
Default

Use the side links from the AE 12r5.2. They are a little more flexible and forgiving when you hit something.
patorz31 is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.