I know, well with you and the big series win I wouldn't change either.

I'm really enjoying my 419. Only thing I've damaged so far is when someone stopped on the straight and didn't call it, resulting in a very sudden stop for me - pulled the three screws holding the bumper halfway through the bottom deck :(

Motor moved forward in the mount, but after de-tweaking, things seemed ok.

Here's a video from my Q3 at last weekend's ACT titles. Class is brushless 13.5 blinky and the track is a lot of fun to drive. I'm second to be called off:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLqgQVatD7U

My driving still needs work, but I was pretty happy. The only thing that I'd like to improve is the slight tendency to understeer on the faster corners. It doesn't do it much in the early part of the run, as the traction compound makes it feel very planted, but later in the run, it tends to run a bit wide.

The next big meet is a on similarly sized track, so I'm thinking of swapping the RR block for an E to reduce the rear toe. Will this also curb the understeer a little?

Phil

As mentioned on Tuesday, the E block will give you more steering all round. It might make it a bit looser at the start, but then be well dialed in at the end.
The other thing I would look at is getting the B splits for the front, giving the front some arm sweep. Should help to keep the front end in the middle of the turn.

That is a great track Phil, wish I had a facility like that close by. Nice driving.

Xray is.

not really.

buddy bought a t4 15, some screws are missing an one ball bearing is damaged :mad:

@goin2drt

That's how I feel too.
I have two Differentials and both are leaking. I also tried everything, Green Slime, shims or a little oil. Everything not helpful. It seems to me, as I've never built a diff. Never was leaking a Tamiya Diff. Why it is not noticed in the production?

To the few months have passed and Tamiya does not consider it necessary to get an update out. You can see it even on Marc`s car like the diff is leaking. But does not seem to care.

Could this be the reason for the termination of Wilck and Groskamp?

Because that is very frustrating :confused:

But slowly :lol:

I must say, that the XRay is very stable, at least more stable as the 419 today.

Will follow your Tips, because I do not get up the mess with the Slime.If it works, I make Pics :nod:

Not at all. Xrays are fast, people are slow. Especially in mod, there's little that has such numbers as the Xrays. I agree some of that is a problem of availability (good distribution for Xray, poor for others) but that's not all there is. My 418 managed to get on pace with the Xrays at the track, but the Xrays are much easier to get there (this is a stock 13.5 class).

PS. Yes, there have been some reports lately about QC slipping at the Xray factory, but I hope they take this seriously and address it. I myself found an alloy knuckle without one kingpin hole threaded (no biggie, I cut the thread myself - but not kosher for the price I paid). I (and no doubt the entire market) have an eye out for the follow up.

On the topic of balljoints, I like the new Tamiya fluorine coated ballstuds, I think they nailed it this time. They do however need to nail it everywhere else regardless of other manufacturers' shortcomings.

I've got them everywhere. They are just that bit nicer than stock, yes.

Kept the stock H5s etc in a box to put on when I sell the chassis :D

So I started the build on my 419 last night and guess what? Tamiya QC is as great as the rest of them.. missing a spacer, one bulkhead that has the same anodizing as the older Yokomo cars, but the rest are dark milky blue. LOL. The kit went together as "flawlessly" as any other kit I've ever assembled.

How soon does the 419 kit diff start leaking? How many runs? I've got an older 417 V5 with the rear diff as dry as the day I assembled it and it's gone through many practice days and 4 races with it since I've rebuilt it. I didn't change any parts on it other than rebuild it. I bought the chassis used, and it was leaking pretty bad. Had to be user/ assembly issue prior. I've built the new diff the same way, but I need to run the car first to see if it will start leaking.

So I started the build on my 419 last night and guess what? Tamiya QC is as great as the rest of them.. missing a spacer, one bulkhead that has the same anodizing as the older Yokomo cars, but the rest are dark milky blue. LOL. The kit went together as "flawlessly" as any other kit I've ever assembled.

How soon does the kit diff start leaking? How many runs? I've got an older 417 V5 with the rear diff as dry as the day I assembled it and it's gone through many practice days and 4 races with it since I've rebuilt it. I didn't change any parts on it other than rebuild it. I bought the chassis used, and it was leaking pretty bad. Had to be user/ assembly issue prior. I've built the new diff the same way, but I need to run the car first to see if it will start leaking.

Congrats. First day diff will be fine, second day out, not so much.

Must try and finish the car today then :) I want to try it tomorrow. Good thing I brought it to work with me. I have the electrics to install and the shocks. DRT, are you going to be there tomorrow??

If that's true, you probably doubled your kit cost.

Just another thing to keep in mind before you recommend the kit to anyone.

PS. Just realised I actually meant the damper ballnuts (TRF42231).