Consumer level kits are cheap and that's what they should be.

TRF kits are not.

Not sure where you buy your grubscrews but I have a good nut and bolt shop just around the corner where I can get any length from 3mm to 25mm in 2mm increments and they're peanuts.

Tamiya's ball nuts are a different story. Nearly 10 bucks a set of 4 (plus postage)? And by the time you take out all the slop on all joints (steering and suspension) by using these, you're out of pocket way above any other kit on the market. This is not okay when the competition has slop free ball joints in their kits as standard (which is the way it should be). What's so difficult, anyway? Slop free joints are not an optional extra on a top spec car.

darn now i have to check my car.... i didn't even use the instructions for drivetrain lol

i see hole put pin in..

Thanks for the clarification

I was referring to the TRF hollow screws which are drug money :D

You're using them everywhere? Hell. Stuff that. I didn't think slop was that much of an issue, I only use the TRF ball nuts for convenience of shock removal. It didn't even occur to me to use them on all the joints.

Risky. Especially when the pin sizes are all so close.

Hollow screws? What do you need that for?

You're using hollow screws but think slop is okay? Do you race your cars or put them in glass boxes on shelves and list all the hop ups in your signature?

I bought them last time for the 418 before knowing better. Can't recall which of the build blogs (McPhee/kentech/rcracer) I copied it from. I'm not specifically advocating their use, that's for sure. But if you've got the coin and don't mind spending it - good luck :)

I don't think slop is "ok" I'm saying I didn't notice it as an issue on my car - but I haven't got much to compare to.

Thank you fort the response.
Would you recomend adding 40g extra (which would make my car 1380g) to have a perfect L/R balance, or is it better to save 40g and have a very slightly unbalance L/R ?

Thanks.

You can offset the location of your lipo with. More/less spacers on the lipo stopper - have you considered that?

Can you define "a bit"? is it 1mm or less?

I slipped my old 417/418 holed body onto the 419 just fine without any modifications or adjustments when building according to kit.

Yes, the Body from the 418, EVO 6 all fit the TRF419 :nod:

I have, which does give better results for the front end (about 10g difference on each side) but the rear still causes some issues. There's a bigger gap at 10-25 g.

Technically yes they fit. They are not exact. The rear posts are about a mm or two wider and farther back about the same. It is not an exact fit but you would need to only make your current rear holes a bit larger to get them to work.

I would try to make it as close to perfect at just about weight limit. Don't want to carry any extra weight around. As I say, it should be possible to get a very good balance at 1350 which is the normal limit.

I measured it when I built the car but didin't write it down. I believe the difference was 1 or 1.5mm.

New Alu Chassis TRF 419 from Samix :D

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