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Originally Posted by greenpea76
(Post 13941054)
Must try and finish the car today then :) I want to try it tomorrow. Good thing I brought it to work with me. I have the electrics to install and the shocks. DRT, are you going to be there tomorrow??
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Originally Posted by PDR
(Post 13940243)
I'm really enjoying my 419. Only thing I've damaged so far is when someone stopped on the straight and didn't call it, resulting in a very sudden stop for me - pulled the three screws holding the bumper halfway through the bottom deck :(
Motor moved forward in the mount, but after de-tweaking, things seemed ok. Here's a video from my Q3 at last weekend's ACT titles. Class is brushless 13.5 blinky and the track is a lot of fun to drive. I'm second to be called off: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLqgQVatD7U My driving still needs work, but I was pretty happy. The only thing that I'd like to improve is the slight tendency to understeer on the faster corners. It doesn't do it much in the early part of the run, as the traction compound makes it feel very planted, but later in the run, it tends to run a bit wide. The next big meet is a on similarly sized track, so I'm thinking of swapping the RR block for an E to reduce the rear toe. Will this also curb the understeer a little? Phil Having bent my F suspension block, switched to E for my last race. Car was even quicker and that was at a parking lot race.. Not a designated track like yours. So have no fear :) |
What's everyone running for camber front and rear for asphalt?
I am at -2 deg on all four corners. I let a friend that races at the same track, drive my car and he suggested to reduce camber to -0,5 only. It's a drastic change. |
Originally Posted by Raman
(Post 13941260)
What's everyone running for camber front and rear for asphalt?
I am at -2 deg on all four corners. I let a friend that races at the same track, drive my car and he suggested to reduce camber to -0,5 only. It's a drastic change. |
Originally Posted by niznai
(Post 13941120)
If that's true, you probably doubled your kit cost.
Just another thing to keep in mind before you recommend the kit to anyone. PS. Just realised I actually meant the damper ballnuts (TRF42231). But yes, the damper ball nuts are great - they would get expensive everywhere :) Even using 4 each end is luxury! I've seen them used on steering horns though. |
Originally Posted by Raman
(Post 13941253)
I'm envious of your track. WOW!
Having bent my F suspension block, switched to E for my last race. Car was even quicker and that was at a parking lot race.. Not a designated track like yours. So have no fear :) The track featured earlier is not my home track, but the outdoor track built and run by the ACT (Canberra) guys. Great facility in the beautiful southern parts of Canberra. An easy 3 hour drive from my place. Here's a pretty good video of the facility: http://player.vimeo.com/video/88992769 The upcoming NSW State Titles are on a similar sized track in Western Sydney. Phil. |
What a beautiful facility.
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Mixed results last night. Was running new volante 36 tyres as well. Need to get used to these as they will be used at AOC in a few months. Combined with the red goop, mega grip at the start of the run.
Took some inspiration from Eds setup and flattened the blocks and shortened the wheelbase from stock to go along with the sweep. I also ran my harder diff (5000 vs 3000 muchmore) at the start of the night as grip was up but this gave way, way too much under steer. One I went back to 3000 the turn in improved dramatically to the point it was catching me out a little! I'm actually considering going softer, say 2000 (it is getting colder after all too) My track is a little bumpy, so I think I should also drop down to 400/350 (muchmore, assume it is cts?) shock oil too. Going to add some anti-dive next meet as well - I like the way my 418 ran with 0,5mm shims, so will try that too. |
Originally Posted by cplus
(Post 13942342)
Mixed results last night. Was running new volante 36 tyres as well. Need to get used to these as they will be used at AOC in a few months. Combined with the red goop, mega grip at the start of the run.
Took some inspiration from Eds setup and flattened the blocks and shortened the wheelbase from stock to go along with the sweep. I also ran my harder diff (5000 vs 3000 muchmore) at the start of the night as grip was up but this gave way, way too much under steer. One I went back to 3000 the turn in improved dramatically to the point it was catching me out a little! I'm actually considering going softer, say 2000 (it is getting colder after all too) My track is a little bumpy, so I think I should also drop down to 400/350 (muchmore, assume it is cts?) shock oil too. Going to add some anti-dive next meet as well - I like the way my 418 ran with 0,5mm shims, so will try that too. I actually had my first go with the car in mod on carpert today... it was an interesting experience. Will visit that later, suffice to say there was a small pile of plastic parts on my table by the end of the day :( |
Originally Posted by TryHard
(Post 13942447)
Don't forget with dropping the blocks you can play with the inner and out link heights to help with the roll centre.
I should put my old set up for the 418 into crew chief and then look at what settings I need to match the same RC and CG values etc. I was pretty happy towards the end with it in reality.
Originally Posted by TryHard
(Post 13942447)
I actually had my first go with the car in mod on carpert today... it was an interesting experience. Will visit that later, suffice to say there was a small pile of plastic parts on my table by the end of the day :(
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4 Attachment(s)
Back on the carpet with niznai Tips
First of all, thanks for your help with the Diff. I followed your advice, 0,1mm shim in the outdrives and a little Green Slime in the holes of the diff pulley, my idea :p In the dampers I also used 2mm shim with X-Rings. And it appears that they are tight. maybe I'm still trying 0.3mm shim, to be sure. Picture attached. Have the C-hubs used from the TA05 (you can see the darker color in the pic) and what can I say, most stable I've ever had. Today drove fastest time, but not by me, a club member drove my car :lol: Thank you very much and cheers :D |
Where do you add .2mm shim in damper and how do you assemble it?i follow kit instruction...thx
Originally Posted by Simmi
(Post 13942916)
Back on the carpet with niznai Tips
First of all, thanks for your help with the Diff. I followed your advice, 1mm shim in the outdrives and a little Green Slime in the holes of the diff pulley, my idea :p In the dampers I also used 2mm shim with X-Rings. And it appears that they are tight. maybe I'm still trying 0.3mm shim, to be sure. Picture attached. Have the C-hubs used from the TA05 (you can see the darker color in the pic) and what can I say, most stable I've ever had. Today drove fastest time, but not by me, a club member drove my car :lol: Thank you very much and cheers :D |
If build out the damper o, 2mm shim into the cylinder and then the O-ring or X-ring. With O-rings I can not promise anything, sorry.
We can think for yourself what made :sneaky: This is something I do not know from Tamiya :eek: |
I'd be worried about something steel and tight tolerance (the shim) so close to the nicely coated shaft personally. Sounds like a sure fire way to wear off the Ti coating.
I used the double o-ring (blue) method with the 418 style (thinner) plastic guides and it when together neatly. No leaks. Yet. But definitely felt smoother. |
Originally Posted by Simmi
(Post 13942916)
Back on the carpet with niznai Tips
First of all, thanks for your help with the Diff. I followed your advice, 1mm shim in the outdrives and a little Green Slime in the holes of the diff pulley, my idea :p [...] Where did you have room to use a 1mm shim on the outdrive?? Greasing the screw holes only helps to form the thread nice and straight when tightening down the case the first time (and I recommend doing it in stages anyway), but as I mentioned earlier, I ended up stripping the plastic anyway during a rebuild and moved to 2mm countersunk hex screws. The Tamiya screws have too small and too wide a thread to hold in that plastic. (Are you reading this, Tamiya?) Shims in shocks need not touch the shaft, if the OD of the shim is a snug fit in the collar and the ID is large enough that even if the shim moves around (which it shouldn't after tightening the cap) it doesn't contact the shaft. This is just to squash the o-ring a bit more on and make it tighter on the shock shaft. |
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