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Old 05-22-2014, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by -R2-
No hop ups are on the car, but the hop-ups can be purchased from the buggy X3, so things that you can have from the X3 Pro buggy are ,

rear cvd's
diff outdrives
rear cnc alum uprights
front hingepin holders, inserts are also needed with that
alum chassis braces
aluminum hardcoated pivot balls, for shock ends and camberlinks
front alum uprights in 10 or 12 degree
lightened diff cross pins
shorter gear ratio from X3 buggy on bevel and pinion gear
lightened wheel hubs
serrated lock nuts


And it looks like soon to be coming will be

rear Gt toe plate
rear Gt rear/front hingepin holder, buggies fit but do need modding at this time
Why just the rear CVD, and not fronts? Whats the difference?

Looks like I know where some of my money will be going real soon, I need me some aluminum uprights, just like my GT8 Lites.
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Old 05-23-2014, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by ViperZ
Why just the rear CVD, and not fronts? Whats the difference?

Looks like I know where some of my money will be going real soon, I need me some aluminum uprights, just like my GT8 Lites.
Because the front already has CVD's
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Old 05-23-2014, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by -R2-
Because the front already has CVD's
Okay, at the risk of sounding stupid, what does the back have then, if not CVDs?? Am I missing something? Or is the difference in definition as in CVD versus dogbone?
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Old 05-23-2014, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by ViperZ
Okay, at the risk of sounding stupid, what does the back have then, if not CVDs?? Am I missing something? Or is the difference in definition as in CVD versus dogbone?
Stock set up COMES with CVD's in the front and dog bones in the rear.

So you only need to add CVD's in the rear.

CVD's are pined rotating units, so you do not have a part that comes out in a hard hit. May also be slightly better on transfer of power. You replace the dog bone and the wheel axle/drive hub with the complete CVD.

I run the dog bones in the rear as I do not see much improvement by making the change, some racers think CVD's are better.
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Old 05-23-2014, 03:55 PM
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In my opinion (for whatever its worth) The front is critical to have the cvd's because of the steering. That is in on road and off road. Not as critical in the rear for on road cars as it is for off road. On Road cars don't need or have near the suspension travel that is needed for off road cars.
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Old 05-23-2014, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Grenade10
Stock set up COMES with CVD's in the front and dog bones in the rear.

So you only need to add CVD's in the rear.

CVD's are pined rotating units, so you do not have a part that comes out in a hard hit. May also be slightly better on transfer of power. You replace the dog bone and the wheel axle/drive hub with the complete CVD.

I run the dog bones in the rear as I do not see much improvement by making the change, some racers think CVD's are better.
Thanks! I tended to think of the dogbones being the same difference as a CVD, functionally, however understand they are not the same when splitting hairs... and now know better I would think I would be good with DB's in the back, but know I will most likely upgrade just to upgrade


Originally Posted by 24Carrera
In my opinion (for whatever its worth) The front is critical to have the cvd's because of the steering. That is in on road and off road. Not as critical in the rear for on road cars as it is for off road. On Road cars don't need or have near the suspension travel that is needed for off road cars.
Right, thanks!


I was looking at R2's (DJ) video he posted on the first page... That's amazing out of the box how well you drove that car to such a big lead! Nicely done!
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Old 05-23-2014, 05:15 PM
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That was pretty awesome the way he drove the car. Bone stock to. WOW
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Old 05-23-2014, 11:38 PM
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That was basicly the stock rtr car with the stock motor and esc, I did put a fan on the motor as a just in reason, I also changed the to my Savox servo a 1258.
I'm suprized the rtr power was fast and is still in my car, I really don"t have a reason to change it for that track or tracks of the same size, I need to get over to the Greater LA track and try that stuff with a little more pinion on it and see how fast it goes around that track. Dong bones center and rear are still on the car along with stock braces, Sweep tires are the choice. As like my X3 buggies this car roll sooo free so it's a plus for the electric and the nitro. And I used 4 cell bats in the car.
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Old 05-24-2014, 05:45 AM
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What are the specs on the esc and motor? I cant find that anywhere. And any offset or anything on wheels n tires.
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Old 05-24-2014, 05:51 AM
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How much longer for the rtr? Any idea? Very nice here in PA. Really want to get it and start driving. But for now going to run some laps in the buggy. Maybe the short course truck.
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Old 05-24-2014, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by -R2-
That was basicly the stock rtr car with the stock motor and esc, I did put a fan on the motor as a just in reason, I also changed the to my Savox servo a 1258.
I'm suprized the rtr power was fast and is still in my car, I really don"t have a reason to change it for that track or tracks of the same size, I need to get over to the Greater LA track and try that stuff with a little more pinion on it and see how fast it goes around that track. Dong bones center and rear are still on the car along with stock braces, Sweep tires are the choice. As like my X3 buggies this car roll sooo free so it's a plus for the electric and the nitro. And I used 4 cell bats in the car.
As asked, what are the specs of the RTR motor, Kv? Good see and hear its very competitive right out of the box, however I'm sure that has a lot to do with your driving skill as well.

I ordered the Aluminum chassis braces for it, just because I like things like that. I am a bit shocked at the price of the aluminum pars such as the Front C Hubs and rear uprights

I plan to run 4s batteries as well with the Tekin RX8 setup. As indicated, I mainly plan to bash with this. I wished I could race it, but there is no real interest in the bigger scale on road here, and out indoor track is too small as its designed for 1/10 TC.

That's a beautiful track you ran on in SD!
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Old 05-28-2014, 01:21 PM
  #42  
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Today I was going over the wheels from the Hobao GT and decided to plant them on my X3 electric, we have white right now the black wheels will be here soon, just some info on these wheels and tires cuzz they look so nice and they have a nice grip to them. They seem to have more grip than the V-groove tires we have stocked. This wheel and tire combo can only be fitted together, looking at some of my buggy wheels bead lines will not work so these have to be a match on these part numbers.

23114 tire with low pro molded inserts, pair
23096 Hyper GT wheel black
23117 Hyper GT wheel white
Attached Thumbnails OFNA X3 GT SERIES-x3gt_white_wheels.jpg  
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Old 05-28-2014, 10:09 PM
  #43  
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^^^ No comment on the RTR motor specs?
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Old 05-29-2014, 11:19 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by ViperZ
^^^ No comment on the RTR motor specs?
nope because there are non yet.
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Old 05-29-2014, 11:30 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by -R2-
...It was time to get the Electric version of the X3-GT out and running so this a good time to go and run. Testing the electronic gear from the RTR the ESC and the motor were a bullet and ran hard as they also had oval practice in the morning so I tried that out from fresh battery all the way till the end of the cycle and it was impressive.
Originally Posted by -R2-
That was basicly the stock rtr car with the stock motor and esc, I did put a fan on the motor as a just in reason, I also changed the to my Savox servo a 1258.
I'm suprized the rtr power was fast and is still in my car....
Originally Posted by -R2-
nope because there are non yet.
Okay, care to share your running equipment with us? Based on your earlier comments, I thought you had the RTR hardware.
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